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dynosore
Nov 15, 2005, 5:40 PM
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Since all the best advice is obviously contained within the Ask the Noob thread already, I thought it would be fun to compile all the worst advice ever given on this site into one thread. I'm too lazy to do it and have probably missed alot, so feel free to add. My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well...
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jt512
Nov 15, 2005, 5:42 PM
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In reply to: Since all the best advice is obviously contained within the Ask the Noob thread already, I thought it would be fun to compile all the worst advice ever given on this site into one thread. I'm too lazy to do it and have probably missed alot, so feel free to add. My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well... One of the classics, for sure. I'd forgotten all about that one. Jay
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snoangel
Nov 15, 2005, 5:49 PM
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Shouldn't this just include anything ever posted by Jay? :twisted: Tee hee...just kidding Jay. :wink: BTW - you been out to New Jack yet this season??
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jt512
Nov 15, 2005, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: BTW - you been out to New Jack yet this season?? Yeah, I've been out there 5 or 6 times already. It's been nice out there, and not crowded, for some reason, possibly, the Gumbies-Have-All-Gone-To-JTree Hypothesis. Jay
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microbarn
Nov 15, 2005, 6:31 PM
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check your equipment for microfractures
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gamehendge
Nov 15, 2005, 6:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: BTW - you been out to New Jack yet this season?? Yeah, I've been out there 5 or 6 times already. It's been nice out there, and not crowded, for some reason, possibly, the Gumbies-Have-All-Gone-To-JTree Hypothesis. Jay :lol: :lol: :lol:
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seabee
Nov 15, 2005, 6:49 PM
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When asked how to set up a double rope rappel:
In reply to: you dont want anything tied, because you have to pull the rope
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seabee
Nov 15, 2005, 6:51 PM
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There was also some "advice" on using two atc's when rappelling on two ropes, but I couldn't find it...
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thorne
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Nov 15, 2005, 7:34 PM
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Curt's foot belay thread.
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dynosore
Nov 15, 2005, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: check your equipment for microfractures What do you mean? You don't?!?! I bet you don't retire your rope after 6-8 falls either.
In reply to: When asked how to set up a double rope rappel: beyond_gravity wrote: you dont want anything tied, because you have to pull the rope Speed rappelling for sure. (it's even more classic when they're repelling) Wasn't their someone advocating the merits of Aussie rappelling too?
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galt
Nov 15, 2005, 8:10 PM
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I enjoyed reading how to solo while using a Petzl Tibloc & biner. I never knew my life was worth the mere $50 more a solo device cost. Ahh... I love this place.
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jt512
Nov 15, 2005, 8:31 PM
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Look through this thread: Gumby of the Year Award. Pay particular attention to anyone nominated in the Gumby Innovation category. There should be some gems in there. Jay
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slobmonster
Nov 15, 2005, 9:35 PM
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In reply to: My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well... Hell, I'll admit it. That one was mine, and I still stand by it, given some significant qualifications. Ask me, if you want. You might learn a new, handy trick. The best way to utilize this particualr GriGri trick is when using the device to rappel a single line. Set up before removing your link to the anchor, there is no reason to open your locking biner once loaded.
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kyote321
Nov 15, 2005, 9:43 PM
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sport climbing is neither
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altelis
Nov 15, 2005, 9:56 PM
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slobmonster- what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line?
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pharmboy
Nov 15, 2005, 10:03 PM
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worst advice ever received on rc.com.... something to do with a beer enima.... I'll say no more!
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aikibujin
Nov 15, 2005, 10:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: My personal favorite: when using a grigri, open your belay biner when the climber tops out so you can wrap the rope around said biner once to ease lowering :shock: Can't seem to find the thread but remember it well... Hell, I'll admit it. That one was mine, and I still stand by it, given some significant qualifications. Ask me, if you want. You might learn a new, handy trick. The best way to utilize this particualr GriGri trick is when using the device to rappel a single line. Set up before removing your link to the anchor, there is no reason to open your locking biner once loaded. Clipping the brake strand through a separate biner that was either clipped to the belay loop or the leg loop will do the same trick, and safer because you don't have to mess around with your belay biner. Even if you set up your method before the belay biner is loaded, the movement of the rope through the biner could potentially twist the locking sleeve of your belay biner and put it into an unlocked position. I liked your trick with rappelling with the Reverso, but I agree with most that your trick with the Grigri is not advisable, especially if there's a safer way to accomplish the same thing.
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slobmonster
Nov 15, 2005, 10:15 PM
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In reply to: slobmonster- what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line? The solution involves a knot, a midget, and some welding gloves.
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altelis
Nov 15, 2005, 10:20 PM
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but of course-WELDING GLOVES!! the midget and the knot i got right away-that's common sense. but WELDING gloves!! its so simple now that i see it! :wink:
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gunkiemike
Nov 16, 2005, 12:53 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: slobmonster- what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line? The solution involves a knot, a midget, and some welding gloves. Where do I find welding gloves small enough to fit the midget's hands?
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tradrenn
Nov 16, 2005, 1:02 AM
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Q. How often do you retire gear ? A. Every time you fall. Q. How often do you retire rope ? A. Every time it breaks. I don't remember the threads that I read them in.
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tnmountainman
Nov 16, 2005, 1:12 AM
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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microbarn
Nov 16, 2005, 2:31 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: slobmonster- what about if i am using my grigri to rappell on a double line? The solution involves a knot, a midget, and some welding gloves. Where do I find welding gloves small enough to fit the midget's hands? They only have to be small enough to fit the horse. The midget has nothing to do with that.
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davidji
Nov 16, 2005, 2:35 AM
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In reply to: Q. How often do you retire rope ? A. Every time it breaks. Do you mean you don't retire your rope when it breaks? :wink:
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jpearl
Nov 16, 2005, 2:45 AM
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Any posting in a thread with a topic like "Religion + Climbing".
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