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ihategrigris
Nov 20, 2005, 6:26 PM
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The gym I climb at here in Calgary have 25 meter walls, and grid bolted routes, in such a way that the bolts a 5-1/2 ft apart from one another.
I want to try and talk the owner into letting me aid-solo these routes, thinking it could be good practice just for movement as well as high stepping and stuff like that. Has anyone ever been able to talk a gym into letting them do this? Is this even worth pursuing?
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anykineclimb
Nov 20, 2005, 6:46 PM
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yep, did it before at the gym I used to work at. More for shits and giggles, it was helpful on the lead walls where there was no toprope handy for setting.
I guess its good practice...
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kimgraves
Nov 20, 2005, 7:17 PM
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Check out this post of mine.
Best, Kim
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holdplease2
Nov 21, 2005, 5:24 AM
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Howdy:
For your gym success, you may want to start gently with them...ask to aid belayed by a partner first. They would probably go for this...then you can ask for the next step, aid soloing.
My guess is that if you feel that you would learn something from aiding grid bolts in a gym...you might be safer/better off not having to worry about the additional complexities of a solo system just yet.
Regarding aid soloing, I don't know what your "ground" anchor would be...but it is something to think about.
And this will get you chicks, even if you are slow. Because its gear-intensive, and, well, aid climbers are chick magnets....
:)
-Kate.
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vegastradguy
Nov 21, 2005, 5:32 AM
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aid soloing is standard practice at my gym for setting lead routes in the cave- pretty much the only way to go about it is to aid solo them.
anchoring can be interesting, but our gym has bolts on the bottom of the wall for this.....best to find out if your gym also has this option...
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rockguide
Nov 21, 2005, 6:57 AM
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I am also in Calgary and have done some aid on local indoor walls way back - as in the late 80s, just before my first trip to the valley. Great way to pick up skills and although my a$$ was still delivered to me in a paper bag I did somehow succeed and the route/pain went by alot quicker. Things got better over time, but the foundation skills helped.
By and large, rule out the aid solo thing. Can it be done safely? yes. Will everyone around you understand that? no ... and it may cause stress. WIll it tie up a route for a long time and keep other members off of the route? yes, unless you are really fast and therefore don't need the practice.
So do it on TR - and forget doing it at most of the Calgary gyms. The University of Calgary and the Southland Leisure Centre walls are concrete with cracks so you can practice placing real pro, real bounce testing, and real gear organisation. Just no hooks or pins please.
It is good you are looking at practicing - too many people decide to figure things out on a real wall (aid climbing -how hard can it be? Really) and go s o v e r y s l o w t h a t e v e r y o t h e r p a r t y b e h i n d t h e m w i l l c e r t a i n l y l o s e t h e i r m i n d s a n d p r o b a b l y t h e i r s o c i a l g r a c e s . D o n' t l e a r n o n t h e i r t i m e.
And if you are looking for a partner for the occasional mixed aid/free route next summer, look me up.
Brian
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ihategrigris
Nov 21, 2005, 7:42 AM
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In reply to: aid climbers are chick magnets....
LMAO!
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rockguide
Nov 21, 2005, 8:14 AM
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[quote="holdplease2"]
In reply to: And this will get you chicks, even if you are slow. Because its gear-intensive, and, well, aid climbers are chick magnets....
Aid climbers are chick magnets? I thought chicks dug investment bankers because their hands are less scabby and their nails more trimmed?
Of course, aid climbers have bigger hands, but most chicks know that is just swelling due to aluminum oxide and is only false advertising.
Still, I think I am going to tell everyone that I used to be an aid climber. Perhaps my luck will change!
:lol:
Brian
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srwings
Nov 21, 2005, 1:06 PM
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Heck, if they are half as attractive as 'holdplease2' I should be aiding.
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