Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


blouderk2


Nov 21, 2005, 11:34 PM
Post #1 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 343

Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Im considering buying a 9.5 mm rope. But I was curious if this would make a good trad rope or would it be more of a sport climbing redpoint/onsight rope? Do many trad climbers use skinnier ropes or should I just stick to a 10.2-10.5 rope? Also people who do use 9.5-9.8 ropes for trad: how have they held up? and do they get trashed compared to a thicker rope? Thanks

-Tom


Partner holdplease2


Nov 21, 2005, 11:42 PM
Post #2 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 1733

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

YMMV: I use a 9.7 for trad cragging in yosemite and other places with kinda normal rock. However, in Josh where the rock is really rough and on some longer routes, like in Red Rocks, I use a 10.5, but my partners complain about it. On walls I use a 10.5.

-Kate.


blouderk2


Nov 21, 2005, 11:58 PM
Post #3 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 343

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
YMMV: I use a 9.7 for trad cragging in yosemite and other places with kinda normal rock. However, in Josh where the rock is really rough and on some longer routes, like in Red Rocks, I use a 10.5, but my partners complain about it. On walls I use a 10.5.

-Kate.

I was planning on using the 9.5mm for trad in jtree. Would this be a good idea? or would the rope just get trashed since jtree rock eats just about everything (ropes,slings,shoes,ect).


boltdude


Nov 22, 2005, 12:04 AM
Post #4 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 685

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sure, as long as the rock doesn't have lots of sharp edges, etc. I use heavier duty ropes for sport climbing since you beat up sport ropes a lot more (falls, takes, top-roping partners off of anchors), while trad ropes tend to get low use - fewer falls or takes, less likely to have partners dogging on the rope.

But sharp rock, especially cleanly fractured granite, means thicker ropes for me. Also, like Kate, I bring heavier duty ropes for long trad at Red Rocks, there are a lot of fairly sharp flakes/edges.

And if you're in SoCal and will be climbing at Josh, skinny ropes will get thrashed pretty quickly on the rough rock down there. And why bother saving weight when the routes are 50' from the car. If on the other hand you'll be hiking to Tahquitz every weekend...


Partner holdplease2


Nov 22, 2005, 12:06 AM
Post #5 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 1733

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, I dunno. I am sure that some folks who climb in Josh more than I do will chime in...

However, if you have plenty of coin and plan to lead at your ultimate limit, as is typical in a trad cragging zone like josh, then a light rope might be nice. You might keep your older rope for toproping sessions (it could take the brunt of wear) and have this sweet thin line as your sending machine...


-Kate.


Partner climbinginchico


Nov 22, 2005, 12:17 AM
Post #6 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 23, 2004
Posts: 3032

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Josh Wharton climbs exclusively on the Mammut Revelation 9.2.
He loves it.


feanor007


Nov 22, 2005, 4:48 AM
Post #7 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 6, 2004
Posts: 377

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Josh Wharton climbs exclusively on the Mammut Revelation 9.2.
He loves it.

yah...but i bet he never buys a rope, mammut just gives 'em to him, so it's ok if he thrashs tons of ropes a year


piton


Nov 22, 2005, 5:53 AM
Post #8 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

if it's rated a single then it should be ok. what rope are you looking at?
anyway 9.5 will have softer catch if you fall (longer stretch), so you can wear a swami belt. check out the fall ratings


stymingersfink


Nov 22, 2005, 9:48 AM
Post #9 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
anyway 9.5 will have softer catch if you fall (longer stretch), so you can wear a swami belt.


NOT NECESSARILY true^^

In reply to:
check out the fall ratings
TRUE

Every rope is constructed differently, so you will still have to identify what's most important to your situation. Lightness of being, softness of catch, falls held and resistance to wear. .. These attributes are often (but not ALWAYS) mutually exclusive in a rope. ( <--WTF, over)


g
Deleted

Nov 22, 2005, 9:57 AM
Post #10 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've got a 9.4 70 M Beal rope. I love it for multi-pitch, but it does get trashed (and I will soon need a new one). I've got a couple of ropes though for different things.


alpinerockfiend


Nov 22, 2005, 10:05 AM
Post #11 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 598

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
anyway 9.5 will have softer catch if you fall (longer stretch), so you can wear a swami belt.
Man, I wish I could rate posts today. The swami belt reference put an unexpected smile on my face.


chanceboarder


Nov 22, 2005, 10:08 AM
Post #12 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 1348

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

if you're gonna use this rope primarily at josh and as your primary every day lead rope its gonna get trashed pretty fast out there. the rock is just too rough and will eat away skinny ropes in no time. if you're just gonna use it for those hard red points and wont be used every time you're climbing there then go for it. otherwise i think you'll be replacing a skinny rope in no time. i use a 10.2 for my lead rope out at josh and on the few occasions i set up a top rope i'll use an old 10.5.


vegastradguy


Nov 22, 2005, 10:08 AM
Post #13 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

my two single lines are sub-10mm's.

i have a 70m 9.7 that is over a year old now and going strong. i use it primarily for non-multipitch climbing. so, whenever i go to josh, i use this line (which, admittedly, is not that often). i'm pretty rough on this rope, though, much more so than my previous single line (Sterling 10.2) and i expect it to last at least another year or so.

i also have a 60m 9.6 that is about 6 months old and is still going strong. this is my primary multipitch line- i bought it exclusively for going fast and light on Resolution Arete, and now, 6 months later, it has become my primary use rope. it probably has well over 100 pitches on it by now, and if the first 100 pitches are any indication of its durability, i expect this line to last a very long time.

for the record: i also use a pair of 8.6mm doubles regularly, so although i use the above ropes frequently, they are not my only ropes by any means.


trenchdigger


Nov 22, 2005, 10:12 AM
Post #14 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1447

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It depends a bit on your climbing style...

How often do you fall? Just as important, how often does your follower fall and how often do you have to lower your follower?

Those three things - especially lowering - are very hard on a rope. If you generally climb at an onsight level, I would say the rope is fine for your needs. Is it the Mammut 9.5? If so, that's a sweet rope. I also really like the 9.2mm.


Partner j_ung


Nov 22, 2005, 10:41 AM
Post #15 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

IMO, buy your rope based on the type of abuse it'll take, not the style of climbing you'll do. If all you do is onsight and your pitches tend to be long and winding, you might fall in love with a 9.5. If, however, you work short, hard trad lines like sport climbs, falling and taking as though it's going out of style... maybe a slightly thicker rope might be a better choice.

Another thought: beware your belay device. Some are more appropriate than others for thin cords.


Partner j_ung


Nov 22, 2005, 10:42 AM
Post #16 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Is it the Mammut 9.5? If so, that's a sweet rope. I also really like the 9.2mm.

I climbed on a buddy's Mammut 9.5 last weekend. It was so damn sweet. :)


marks


Nov 22, 2005, 12:48 PM
Post #17 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2002
Posts: 376

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i use a 8mm 60 mtr rope doubled up for 90 percent of my trading.the crags near by are rarely over 25 mtr


blouderk2


Nov 22, 2005, 12:55 PM
Post #18 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 343

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
Is it the Mammut 9.5? If so, that's a sweet rope. I also really like the 9.2mm.

I climbed on a buddy's Mammut 9.5 last weekend. It was so damn sweet. :)

Yes I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity. I've lead on a 9.8mm before and I thought it was great. It felt like it wasn't even there. I also have a Sterling 10.2 60m rope. But unfortunately I had to cut about 16 feet off of it due to a nice core shot. So now I have about a 53m rope or so. Which sort of sketches me out on long rappels, knowing I do not have a 60m rope. If I do get a 9.5mm it will mainly be used for trad in Joshua tree and occasionally on a red point attempt on sport. I understand the nature of jtree rock is rough which probably means it will get some wear on it. But I don't plan to hang dog on it often and I will certainly not be top roping through it. Thanks to everyone who has posted!


Partner gamehendge


Nov 22, 2005, 1:03 PM
Post #19 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 398

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide.


jimfix


Nov 22, 2005, 1:04 PM
Post #20 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 18, 2004
Posts: 314

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Another thought: beware your belay device. Some are more appropriate than others for thin cords.

What? A figure 8 is the master of all belay devices.


blouderk2


Nov 22, 2005, 1:13 PM
Post #21 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 343

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide.

I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity from rei. Pretty good deal. Thanks


Partner gamehendge


Nov 22, 2005, 2:08 PM
Post #22 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 398

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide.

I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity from rei. Pretty good deal. Thanks

If you're gonna be using it mainly for trad and @ Josh, I would get the Mammut 10.5 they have on sale for the same price. You'll get longer use out of it especially if it's your main rope. It makes for more than an adequate sport line too (i.e. taking lot's of falls/TR'ing w/ a group more than 2). Besides, it's really a matter of a pound.


Partner cracklover


Nov 22, 2005, 2:14 PM
Post #23 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10161

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
IMO, buy your rope based on the type of abuse it'll take, not the style of climbing you'll do. If all you do is onsight and your pitches tend to be long and winding, you might fall in love with a 9.5. If, however, you work short, hard trad lines like sport climbs, falling and taking as though it's going out of style... maybe a slightly thicker rope might be a better choice.

I almost exclusively onsight trad. Bad rope drag can eat up a sub-10mm single rope *fast*.

My opinion - in Josh, a sub 10mm single rope will get eaten up in a year or less if you climb a lot.

GO


blouderk2


Nov 22, 2005, 3:04 PM
Post #24 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 343

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide.

I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity from rei. Pretty good deal. Thanks

If you're gonna be using it mainly for trad and @ Josh, I would get the Mammut 10.5 they have on sale for the same price. You'll get longer use out of it especially if it's your main rope. It makes for more than an adequate sport line too (i.e. taking lot's of falls/TR'ing w/ a group more than 2). Besides, it's really a matter of a pound.

Thats a good idea, but I already have a 10.2mm Sterling that I use. I rather not go any bigger than 10.2 if I decide to get another rope. So I thought I would get a 9.5mm for redpoint attempts and for trad, but I do understand it will get some wear out at josh.


blouderk2


Nov 22, 2005, 3:20 PM
Post #25 of 45 (6311 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 343

Re: Using a 9.5mm rope for TRAD? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I cant make up my mind If I should get the 9.5mm or not. :?

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook