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powderhound
Nov 15, 2005, 5:17 AM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2004
Posts: 64
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Looking to retire ny harness. Did a forum serach and didn't come up anything latley? So I was just loking ofr imput, I am mostly and trad and ice climber.
Bryan Schmitz
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areuinclimber
Nov 15, 2005, 5:22 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2004
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probably should forgo the harness and buy a key board that accomodates fat fingers.
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granite_grrl
Nov 15, 2005, 1:31 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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The best harness is the one that fits. Go try some on.
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chrisparedes
Nov 15, 2005, 2:09 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2004
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I prefer the Metolius Safe-Tech. Highly adjustable, pretty comfy, and the beefy gear loops are nice. Plus, its SUPER SAFE!
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tgreene
Nov 15, 2005, 2:19 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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I'm with granite_grrl on this, since it's likely a typical Chevy~Ford or AR~AK argument.
FWIW though, I love my Misty Mountain 'Cadillac'. :wink:
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bill413
Nov 15, 2005, 2:43 PM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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And don't forget to ask the question: the best harness for what? The optimal harness features for ice are not the same (usually) as the best one for the gym, or big walls, or hard sport.
They'll all catch your falls, and you can use a big wall harness for sport, but you have to judge for yourself which features you value most - light weight, lots of racking, adjustable for different clothes, padding, do the colors clash with your shoes, etc.
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angry
Nov 15, 2005, 3:34 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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So what you are saying is that there isn't ONE best harness out there?
I've lost my faith in RC.com
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bobruef
Nov 15, 2005, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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can it be, are we experiencing an opinion drought?!
ok, here's my input -
My Petzl corvus is uber-comfortable, but next time, I may go with adjustable leg loops, and something with bigger gear loops. I like the fast forward system, but they're kind of small.
Next time I think I'll be going with a Misty Mtn. Cadillac.
For purely sport climbing though, I'd keep my petzl.
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jimdavis
Nov 16, 2005, 1:17 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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Dont get a petzl for ice. taking those buckles apart sucks with gloves on.
misty, metolius, or bd...in that order, would be my recomendation.
cheers,
Jim
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tnmountainman
Nov 16, 2005, 1:52 AM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2005
Posts: 99
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totally opinion based, so many styles, options brand loyalty, brand exposure etc. best to follow earlier post and just go try some on.
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bdplayer
Nov 16, 2005, 3:26 AM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
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For Sport, I gotta say that Metolious kicks butt. Comfy, light, and strong. The gear loops are easy to work with too.
If you're going to be putting long days on the wall, and you need more gear loops, the Misty Mountain Cadillac is great. Six gear loops, slots to tuck extra webbing and it even makes Julian Fries!!!
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cyanamid
Nov 16, 2005, 3:34 AM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2004
Posts: 161
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:)
Yates Astroman waist, BD Momentum AL leg loops.
Not an ice climber though....
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holdplease2
Nov 16, 2005, 3:46 AM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
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Howdy:
Not that I'm the expert on this, but I probably hang more than most people. And Lord knows I carry around a huge rack. ;)
Since you are retiring a harness already, you probably know what you like/don't like. I've been testing some harnesses lately, and climbing in BD, Metolius SafeTech, Arcteryx, Petzl, and Misty Mountain.
You can read a review of the Misty Mountain Cadillac on the front page now if you scroll down.
Regarding the Metolius Safe Tech: This is a great harness, with everything full strength. Unfortunatley, this includes the should-be-elastic straps that hold up the leg loops. Instead, they are only minimally stretchy and cannot be dropped, or even unbuckled...as Metolius wants to make them rated to 6 kn. This is really annoying. However, the padding is great. The adjustable rise is great, too, meaning you can really cater your hang and fit. Sweeeet.
Regarding Petzl: If you are that special, and that techy, you'll enjoy the fun features of this harness. However, I find the "gear forward" gear loops, which slide all of your gear to the front of the loop to be a pain if you rack trad on your harness...hard to replace cams/nuts in the right order because the biners are crowded together. Its a great feature for sport, however, when the draws are just taken off one by one and not replaced in a specific order.
Regarding Arcteryx: I love arcteryx harnesses. Simple, well crafted, nice. They have super-light sport harnesses available. These are special harnesses and if you hang right in them, can be very comfortable, as well. Mine has worn very well for three seasons.
Regardin BD: The variety of BD is nice, and you don't have to suffer from looking dorky with unnecessary tech features, as in the petzl harness. BD has some very affordable models. On thing I have really liked about my BD harness is that the gear loops AND belay loop are a bright red. A nice feature for avoiding, um, mistakes.
Regarding the Misty Mountain Cadillac: The classic design has stood the test of time. Six gear loops make racking your trad gear on your harness a dream rather than a cluster phuck...same with aid gear. The fully adjustable leg loops make it great for all seasons. The removable/replacable leg loops are great for spending the night on walls. The single quick-drop buckle for dropping the loops to go to the bathroom is easy to operate and less bulky than two buckles when you are climbing chimneys.
Check out the gear review for other features of my favorite harness, the Misty Mountain Cadillac. Sweet. Classic. You won't look like a over techified dork.
:)
-Kate.
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timd
Nov 16, 2005, 12:01 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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I love my Mammut. But I have to join in and say "Get off your ass and go try some on" :lol:
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overlord
Nov 16, 2005, 12:50 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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depends on what you expect from your harness :wink:
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punk_rocker333
Nov 17, 2005, 1:26 AM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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Misty Mountain Arete. Fixed leg loops are comfortable, only one buckle to mess with, and it catches falls with comfort. So simple, I love it. Perfect for top roping to trad climbs. Not a bad price either. Get one!
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stymingersfink
Nov 22, 2005, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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ice climbing? love the BD bod harness, as there are no leg loops to step through (They are pulled up from underneath when putting it on). No plastic in the waistbelt, so it folds up in my approach pack really well. It has a nice, long tail to pull through the buckle, so it fits just as well on warmer days w/ less insulation as it does on those fridgid mo-fo's when you have a hard time taking off the down parka. BD has added gear loops to this harness since I picked mine up, which isn't quite reason enough to trade it in, but almost.
Suprisingly enough, it is the most comfortable harness (outside my MM Titan) that I have found to hang at a sling belay in. Even so, I don't use it much for trad/sport, just the ice season.
The best harness?. < can be hard to find, period.
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hosh
Nov 22, 2005, 9:04 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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kinda like asking, "what's the best size cam? I mostly climb trad and ice."
hosh.
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galt
Nov 22, 2005, 9:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 3, 2002
Posts: 267
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I know this is to RETIRE a harness, but it's the greatest advice I've ever recieved about purchasing a harness. "Get better shoes, then you won't need a better harness." Thought I'd throw it out there.
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