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blouderk2
Nov 22, 2005, 7:34 AM
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Im considering buying a 9.5 mm rope. But I was curious if this would make a good trad rope or would it be more of a sport climbing redpoint/onsight rope? Do many trad climbers use skinnier ropes or should I just stick to a 10.2-10.5 rope? Also people who do use 9.5-9.8 ropes for trad: how have they held up? and do they get trashed compared to a thicker rope? Thanks
-Tom
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holdplease2
Nov 22, 2005, 7:42 AM
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YMMV: I use a 9.7 for trad cragging in yosemite and other places with kinda normal rock. However, in Josh where the rock is really rough and on some longer routes, like in Red Rocks, I use a 10.5, but my partners complain about it. On walls I use a 10.5.
-Kate.
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blouderk2
Nov 22, 2005, 7:58 AM
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In reply to: YMMV: I use a 9.7 for trad cragging in yosemite and other places with kinda normal rock. However, in Josh where the rock is really rough and on some longer routes, like in Red Rocks, I use a 10.5, but my partners complain about it. On walls I use a 10.5. -Kate.
I was planning on using the 9.5mm for trad in jtree. Would this be a good idea? or would the rope just get trashed since jtree rock eats just about everything (ropes,slings,shoes,ect).
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boltdude
Nov 22, 2005, 8:04 AM
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Sure, as long as the rock doesn't have lots of sharp edges, etc. I use heavier duty ropes for sport climbing since you beat up sport ropes a lot more (falls, takes, top-roping partners off of anchors), while trad ropes tend to get low use - fewer falls or takes, less likely to have partners dogging on the rope.
But sharp rock, especially cleanly fractured granite, means thicker ropes for me. Also, like Kate, I bring heavier duty ropes for long trad at Red Rocks, there are a lot of fairly sharp flakes/edges.
And if you're in SoCal and will be climbing at Josh, skinny ropes will get thrashed pretty quickly on the rough rock down there. And why bother saving weight when the routes are 50' from the car. If on the other hand you'll be hiking to Tahquitz every weekend...
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holdplease2
Nov 22, 2005, 8:06 AM
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Well, I dunno. I am sure that some folks who climb in Josh more than I do will chime in...
However, if you have plenty of coin and plan to lead at your ultimate limit, as is typical in a trad cragging zone like josh, then a light rope might be nice. You might keep your older rope for toproping sessions (it could take the brunt of wear) and have this sweet thin line as your sending machine...
-Kate.
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climbinginchico
Nov 22, 2005, 8:17 AM
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Josh Wharton climbs exclusively on the Mammut Revelation 9.2.
He loves it.
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feanor007
Nov 22, 2005, 12:48 PM
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In reply to: Josh Wharton climbs exclusively on the Mammut Revelation 9.2. He loves it.
yah...but i bet he never buys a rope, mammut just gives 'em to him, so it's ok if he thrashs tons of ropes a year
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piton
Nov 22, 2005, 1:53 PM
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if it's rated a single then it should be ok. what rope are you looking at?
anyway 9.5 will have softer catch if you fall (longer stretch), so you can wear a swami belt. check out the fall ratings
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stymingersfink
Nov 22, 2005, 5:48 PM
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In reply to: anyway 9.5 will have softer catch if you fall (longer stretch), so you can wear a swami belt.
NOT NECESSARILY true^^
In reply to: check out the fall ratings
Every rope is constructed differently, so you will still have to identify what's most important to your situation. Lightness of being, softness of catch, falls held and resistance to wear. .. These attributes are often (but not ALWAYS) mutually exclusive in a rope. ( <--WTF, over)
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g
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Nov 22, 2005, 5:57 PM
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I've got a 9.4 70 M Beal rope. I love it for multi-pitch, but it does get trashed (and I will soon need a new one). I've got a couple of ropes though for different things.
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alpinerockfiend
Nov 22, 2005, 6:05 PM
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In reply to: anyway 9.5 will have softer catch if you fall (longer stretch), so you can wear a swami belt. |
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chanceboarder
Nov 22, 2005, 6:08 PM
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if you're gonna use this rope primarily at josh and as your primary every day lead rope its gonna get trashed pretty fast out there. the rock is just too rough and will eat away skinny ropes in no time. if you're just gonna use it for those hard red points and wont be used every time you're climbing there then go for it. otherwise i think you'll be replacing a skinny rope in no time. i use a 10.2 for my lead rope out at josh and on the few occasions i set up a top rope i'll use an old 10.5.
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vegastradguy
Nov 22, 2005, 6:08 PM
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my two single lines are sub-10mm's.
i have a 70m 9.7 that is over a year old now and going strong. i use it primarily for non-multipitch climbing. so, whenever i go to josh, i use this line (which, admittedly, is not that often). i'm pretty rough on this rope, though, much more so than my previous single line (Sterling 10.2) and i expect it to last at least another year or so.
i also have a 60m 9.6 that is about 6 months old and is still going strong. this is my primary multipitch line- i bought it exclusively for going fast and light on Resolution Arete, and now, 6 months later, it has become my primary use rope. it probably has well over 100 pitches on it by now, and if the first 100 pitches are any indication of its durability, i expect this line to last a very long time.
for the record: i also use a pair of 8.6mm doubles regularly, so although i use the above ropes frequently, they are not my only ropes by any means.
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trenchdigger
Nov 22, 2005, 6:12 PM
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It depends a bit on your climbing style...
How often do you fall? Just as important, how often does your follower fall and how often do you have to lower your follower?
Those three things - especially lowering - are very hard on a rope. If you generally climb at an onsight level, I would say the rope is fine for your needs. Is it the Mammut 9.5? If so, that's a sweet rope. I also really like the 9.2mm.
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j_ung
Nov 22, 2005, 6:41 PM
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IMO, buy your rope based on the type of abuse it'll take, not the style of climbing you'll do. If all you do is onsight and your pitches tend to be long and winding, you might fall in love with a 9.5. If, however, you work short, hard trad lines like sport climbs, falling and taking as though it's going out of style... maybe a slightly thicker rope might be a better choice.
Another thought: beware your belay device. Some are more appropriate than others for thin cords.
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marks
Nov 22, 2005, 8:48 PM
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i use a 8mm 60 mtr rope doubled up for 90 percent of my trading.the crags near by are rarely over 25 mtr
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blouderk2
Nov 22, 2005, 8:55 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Is it the Mammut 9.5? If so, that's a sweet rope. I also really like the 9.2mm. I climbed on a buddy's Mammut 9.5 last weekend. It was so damn sweet. :)
Yes I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity. I've lead on a 9.8mm before and I thought it was great. It felt like it wasn't even there. I also have a Sterling 10.2 60m rope. But unfortunately I had to cut about 16 feet off of it due to a nice core shot. So now I have about a 53m rope or so. Which sort of sketches me out on long rappels, knowing I do not have a 60m rope. If I do get a 9.5mm it will mainly be used for trad in Joshua tree and occasionally on a red point attempt on sport. I understand the nature of jtree rock is rough which probably means it will get some wear on it. But I don't plan to hang dog on it often and I will certainly not be top roping through it. Thanks to everyone who has posted!
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gamehendge
Nov 22, 2005, 9:03 PM
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I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide.
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jimfix
Nov 22, 2005, 9:04 PM
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In reply to: Another thought: beware your belay device. Some are more appropriate than others for thin cords.
What? A figure 8 is the master of all belay devices.
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blouderk2
Nov 22, 2005, 9:13 PM
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In reply to: I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide.
I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity from rei. Pretty good deal. Thanks
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gamehendge
Nov 22, 2005, 10:08 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide. I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity from rei. Pretty good deal. Thanks
If you're gonna be using it mainly for trad and @ Josh, I would get the Mammut 10.5 they have on sale for the same price. You'll get longer use out of it especially if it's your main rope. It makes for more than an adequate sport line too (i.e. taking lot's of falls/TR'ing w/ a group more than 2). Besides, it's really a matter of a pound.
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cracklover
Nov 22, 2005, 10:14 PM
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In reply to: IMO, buy your rope based on the type of abuse it'll take, not the style of climbing you'll do. If all you do is onsight and your pitches tend to be long and winding, you might fall in love with a 9.5. If, however, you work short, hard trad lines like sport climbs, falling and taking as though it's going out of style... maybe a slightly thicker rope might be a better choice.
I almost exclusively onsight trad. Bad rope drag can eat up a sub-10mm single rope *fast*.
My opinion - in Josh, a sub 10mm single rope will get eaten up in a year or less if you climb a lot.
GO
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blouderk2
Nov 22, 2005, 11:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I just purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.5. Awesome rope. I'm using it strictly for sport/RP's. I have an older 10.5 I continue to use as my main workhorse. Josh will be harsh on skinny ropes though. It's also on sale @ REI right now for $125 if that will help you decide. I was planning on getting the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity from rei. Pretty good deal. Thanks If you're gonna be using it mainly for trad and @ Josh, I would get the Mammut 10.5 they have on sale for the same price. You'll get longer use out of it especially if it's your main rope. It makes for more than an adequate sport line too (i.e. taking lot's of falls/TR'ing w/ a group more than 2). Besides, it's really a matter of a pound.
Thats a good idea, but I already have a 10.2mm Sterling that I use. I rather not go any bigger than 10.2 if I decide to get another rope. So I thought I would get a 9.5mm for redpoint attempts and for trad, but I do understand it will get some wear out at josh.
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blouderk2
Nov 22, 2005, 11:20 PM
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I cant make up my mind If I should get the 9.5mm or not. :?
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