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authorizeduser
Nov 26, 2005, 5:26 AM
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Climbing injuries are a complete mystery to me. I've been injured through many different sports, you get hurt, things hurt, when they stop hurting, you're (for the most part) better. I've had two climbing tendon injuries and although they are different injuries, I'm noticing a commonality between the two. The injury seems to hurt less when I climb. I've had an injury for about two months now and it still hurts but I wanted to climb on it today just to see if maybe I could do some easy stuff or go one handed. :P I climbed for a couple of hours today and there were a few times when I definitely felt that it's not recovered. Funny thing is, my hand hurts less now than it did this morning. I recall something similar happening with my last tendon injury and was wondering if any else has noticed this as well and could possibly shed some light here.
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jman5
Nov 26, 2005, 5:59 AM
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i have had a similar thing happen with some ligament injuries in my fingers. but that is more due to the fact that it has been over strained and when you are not climbing. they are trying to come back together, to fix it self in a way. and get back to it's normal place. and that is what the pain is, it was the readjustments. I'm not sure about tendons though. I strained one and it hurt like hell when ever i climbed anything even after a lot of rest as soon as I put weight on a hold i knew it wasn't better. My advice, though I'm certainly no doctor. If you took that much time off and it still hurt a little you prob shouldn't of climbed for a few hours. The fact that it only hurt a few times could be signs that it is on it's way in the healing process. give it time. If you rush the it, it could double or triple the time it takes to heal. The hardest thing to do is just be patient. good luck.
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majid_sabet
Nov 26, 2005, 6:44 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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In reply to: Climbing injuries are a complete mystery to me. I've been injured through many different sports, you get hurt, things hurt, when they stop hurting, you're (for the most part) better. I've had two climbing tendon injuries and although they are different injuries, I'm noticing a commonality between the two. The injury seems to hurt less when I climb. I've had an injury for about two months now and it still hurts but I wanted to climb on it today just to see if maybe I could do some easy stuff or go one handed. :P I climbed for a couple of hours today and there were a few times when I definitely felt that it's not recovered. Funny thing is, my hand hurts less now than it did this morning. I recall something similar happening with my last tendon injury and was wondering if any else has noticed this as well and could possibly shed some light here. Take some time off and leave climbing behind, if you try to push it, you will retire climbing early and you will suffer more.
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musicman1586
Nov 26, 2005, 7:51 PM
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[quote="majid_sabetTake some time off and leave climbing behind, if you try to push it, you will retire climbing early and you will suffer more. <-oops, got carried away with the backspace :lol: I second this. Tendon injuries aren't something to play around with, and they take a long time to heal. If it's still hurting at anytime (climbing or not) then it's still not healed and it doesn't need to be climbed on. Honestly I would say that you shouldn't even do easy stuff, just let climbing be for a while. A majority of climbers (well, young climbers at least as it seems) are always overextending themselves, and they'll regret it when their older, that is if something doesn't happen to them earlier. Bottom line, just let it heal, compounding injuries leads to scar tissue that never does heal and will become a huge crutch.
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shazinky
Nov 26, 2005, 8:25 PM
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I have had similar experiences several times with elbow and finger injuries. As was said before I am no doc. but I'll share my experience. My first elbow injury was pretty severe I took a couple weeks off still no change saw my girlfriends accupuncturist for three visits and was healed. Most subsequent injuries were finger injuries where I had similar felling to yours hurt less while climbing so I climbed and I have to say my injuries healed fine and in just the same amount of time as those injuries that I rested through. Everyones bodies and healing times are different though so I would just suggest listening to your body and figuring out what healing method is the best for you. I have also had success with tendon and ligament supplements (my gf is a buyer for natural food store). I hope some of that helps.
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musicman1586
Nov 26, 2005, 9:42 PM
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Hate to be the antagonist here, but it really isn't a good idea to climb (this applies to all sports in general) if your tendons are hurt, the lack of pain while climbing doesn't mean that your not adding salt to the wound. It's unfortunate that none of us are Superman and can use our x-ray vision to look under our skin to see if we're treating our body right, or if were truly fully healed.
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jeffvoigt
Dec 7, 2005, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2003
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I have had the same issue with my fingers to a point. It's ok to climb as long as they do NOT hurt AT ALL. This advice comes from John Sherman's book Better Bouldering. By climbing you are increasing the blood flow to these injured areas and as long as you are not further injuring them, you may be enhancing your recovery time. I have severly strained or ruptered two pullies in each hand. I took about three weeks off from climbing completly. Ice, heat, massage etc, while I didn't climb. After three weeks I was able to climb big jugs on vertical stuff. I used this as an excuse to work on endurance. Lots and lots of laps on very easy stuff. If you feel any pain STOP, pack it up and go home. Make sure to continue the icing after you start climbing again. Slowly but surely I was able to work my fingers back into shape, the only catch is that they still will never be 100%, I estimate that I can pull down 90% what I used to be able to do. The point being you can continue to climb as long as your injuries don't hurt while you climb or the days following climbing. Take it slow, and be smart about it.
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