Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice:
petzl nomic
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Alpine & Ice

Premier Sponsor:

 


alpine_monk


Nov 28, 2005, 4:01 AM
Post #1 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 268

petzl nomic
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

when I first saw these I thought they looked like they would have to much pick shift to be of much use. I got to try a pair today and they have almost zero shift. this tool RULES. less pick shift than the mantis or the quark ergos. I am yet to try these out on ice but i will report back when I do. I went dry tooling with them today, so I had all the weights off, but you can add skrew-on weights to the pick for swing balance.

Dorian


sfotex


Dec 17, 2005, 7:52 PM
Post #2 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 42

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Have you got out with the nomic's yet? I'm thinking of getting a pair.


sfotex


Dec 21, 2005, 4:43 PM
Post #3 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 42

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok,
I bit the bullet and ordered a pair sight unseen after talking to the guys at Shop Core in Cody, Wy. I'm already worried about the lack of a hammer, but I guess it's evolution:
First the leashes go, then the adze, then the hammer. What next, the pick?


alpine_monk


Dec 22, 2005, 4:28 AM
Post #4 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 268

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Ok,
I bit the bullet and ordered a pair sight unseen after talking to the guys at Shop Core in Cody, Wy. I'm already worried about the lack of a hammer, but I guess it's evolution:
First the leashes go, then the adze, then the hammer. What next, the pick?
I don't use the hammer on my old tools. I hardly use the adze either. all they did was smack me in the face when some sketchy ice pulled. part of what I like about the nomic is the lack of any crap in the pack to give me knots on my forehead.


alpinestylist


Dec 22, 2005, 4:53 AM
Post #5 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 22, 2002
Posts: 193

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Grivel Taakooons...they are the path.

Have fun


k0b3


Jan 18, 2006, 8:11 AM
Post #6 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 6

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I had the opportunity to test Petzl Nomic for 2 days in France, in a climbing meeting (ICE 2006) held in L'Argentiere la Bessee. Being a Quark user (2005 model without leashes but with hand rest), I was very interested about this piece of equipment, especially because I also had the chance to test Ergo.

I am a regular climber, doing grade 5 on ice and M6+ on dry.

The tools are amazing:

Strong points:

1. very good balance, with the possibility to adjust it by adding weights directly on the pick
2. good grip
3. the chance of hurting is reduced because the hammer was removed. After all, you don't need it on dry tooling :)
4. excellent for dry tooling, competitions and hard ice routes
5. super light!
6. only one type of pick for all the uses (ice, dry)

Low points:

1. I have a very strange feeling that the material used to cover the grip is not so resistant
2. Not good for long mix routes where you could be obliged to put some pitons (no hammer)
3. The plastic from the upper grip is not protected in the area where you could rub it on the rock (Ergo had some metallic part there)

Overall: excellent tool, just looking to buy a pair!

Keep climbing!


kungfuclimber


Jan 19, 2006, 10:12 AM
Post #7 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 162

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've climbed one Quark Ergos for two seasons now. I tried the Nomics last weekend. First thing I noticed is how light they are. They are very very light. The swing is similar to the Ergo. The handle was fine, felt no more pump than on the Ergo (was only grade 3+ ice).

Overall I would say good tools. I really liked the lightness on the thin stuff however I had to work a bit harder to get sinker placement in the thick hard ice.


jimdavis


Jan 19, 2006, 4:10 PM
Post #8 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I've climbed one Quark Ergos for two seasons now. I tried the Nomics last weekend. First thing I noticed is how light they are. They are very very light. The swing is similar to the Ergo. The handle was fine, felt no more pump than on the Ergo (was only grade 3+ ice).

Overall I would say good tools. I really liked the lightness on the thin stuff however I had to work a bit harder to get sinker placement in the thick hard ice.

Did you try them with the weights and have the same problem?

Just curious,
Jim


sfotex


Jan 24, 2006, 6:40 AM
Post #9 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 42

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Being so lite the nomic isn't going to sink as well as a heavy tool (physics...) but the pick is nice and sticks well. I also tore up the rubbery stuff on the upper grip within 2 minutes of getting the tools, I just tore it off and put on hockey tape....


Partner brent_e


Jan 24, 2006, 2:53 PM
Post #10 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Being so lite the nomic isn't going to sink as well as a heavy tool (physics...) but the pick is nice and sticks well. I also tore up the rubbery stuff on the upper grip within 2 minutes of getting the tools, I just tore it off and put on hockey tape....

could you explain the phyics for me, sfotex??


sfotex


Jan 24, 2006, 3:23 PM
Post #11 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 42

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

By 'stick' I meant a light tool isn't going to sink deep as 'easily' as a heavy tool in hard ice.


boulderinemt


Jan 26, 2006, 1:35 PM
Post #12 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2003
Posts: 282

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i really like these tools. i demoded aaron's pair from core, and loved them. my only bitch is that both picks got bent while they were under my care, and really, nothing happened to make this possible. damned if i know, maybe it was someone else, and it was just noticed when i brought them back. anywyay, they swing much like the grivel tools, thanks to the head weight. another bitch, for me, and for ice climbing around cody, is that there are many rollers to get to pitches (i don't mixed climb i just like going leashless for traverses, and whatnot) and there is no spike, fang, or even roughed up edge on the bottom of the tool to grab on the head and walk with them. this was resolved by turning the tool upside down, but this just seemed akward to me, anyway, great tool, and im thinking about ordering me a pair :wink:


giano


Feb 7, 2006, 5:18 AM
Post #13 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 31

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I've climbed one Quark Ergos for two seasons now. I tried the Nomics last weekend. First thing I noticed is how light they are. They are very very light. The swing is similar to the Ergo. The handle was fine, felt no more pump than on the Ergo (was only grade 3+ ice).

Overall I would say good tools. I really liked the lightness on the thin stuff however I had to work a bit harder to get sinker placement in the thick hard ice.

I had the opportunity to test Nomic the last Sunday and I hadn't a very good impression: it is a beautiful tool (with a good pick, an ergonomic handle and a nice look) but I have two remarks to do: 1- it isn't very lightweight (635g); 2- it isn't well balanced, I feel the weight on the middle of the shaft and not on the pick!

I've got a pair of Cassin X-Dry an I think they are better: only 540g and very well balanced. And if you give a look to Nomic you can understand that its shape is very similar to Cassin: the same handle with the same angle between the pick and the handle, the same pick shape with the same teeth near the shaft! I think that Petzl had simply copied a lot of features of Cassin!


mig


Feb 10, 2006, 9:04 AM
Post #14 of 14 (8318 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 15

Re: petzl nomic [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I test NOMIC last weekend. I really like it!! I feal very confortable with them and for me that are really good tools.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Alpine & Ice

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook