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wiegs
Aug 8, 2002, 6:12 PM
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So I thought TR-ing was addictive. Yesterday, I did my first Trad leads at Devil's Lake. Did some short, easy leads to get the feel for it, and purposely fell on a couple pieces of pro. Scary at first, but not too bad once you've done it. Needless to say, I LOVE trad and leading. I've accepted the fact that I'll NEVER have any money ever again, because I'm just going to buy climbing gear with it forever more.
I'd like to thank Steve (aka wildtrail) for showin me the ropes, and graciously letting me use his "rack" Tho, when he says he's "Old fasioned" he means it. He body belayed me, and made me carry a chalkbag full of chockstones and some loose webbing and cordage to sling them with!!!
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cragstar
Aug 8, 2002, 6:24 PM
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Im looking for people to take me out for my first trad experience Ive never even seen people climb trad but it sounds exciting Its always a cool experience to take something like climbing to the next level
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wiegs
Aug 8, 2002, 6:26 PM
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oh man. Trad rocks. Never even seen it? that's a bummer. It's fun to watch someone that's pretty good. Really, really fun. *phew*
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punk
Aug 8, 2002, 6:38 PM
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Wiegs,
so Steve popped your cherry…right on my man…for more to come….Welcome to real climbing
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-08-08 11:40 ]
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wiegs
Aug 8, 2002, 6:49 PM
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Now I can't wait to get out there and do it some more. I need a rope and a rack. Even if it's just some nuts and some hexes. I have to say tho...I really like tricams. Fun to place, fun to use...feel solid. I'll just have to start with some measely rack, and deal with it. Lead what I can, and slowly build a rack. *shrug*
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genlock
Aug 8, 2002, 7:13 PM
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I`ve led 2 times now.. I love it.. but I still havn`t really tested my placements yet. I know I sould, but.. just afraid It might no be well placed enough... so instead I just redpoint them...
I guess I need to go with someone more experienced that can check my placements first.. then, I`ll try falling on them.. ( unless it happens unexpectedly...
Genlock
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wildtrail
Aug 8, 2002, 7:25 PM
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Brett,
You're very welcome. As Neri said, "popped your cherry". Your my b*tch now!
Seriously, I'm glad you had fun. We'll do it again next Wednesday. Pick a spot that looks good to you from the guidebook.
Yup! Old fashioned, like natec (Nate) said. All ovals, body belays, chock stones, and hey...what chalkbag? I'm old fashioned. Don't you recall me taking that chalkbag away and making you carry stuff in your pockets???
Not to mention the Swami belt!
Rock shoes? What the hell are those????
Steve
[ This Message was edited by: wildtrail on 2002-08-08 12:27 ]
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wiegs
Aug 8, 2002, 7:34 PM
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hahaha. sometimes it sure is hard to find the right chockstone to fall on. but seriously...
genlock, I was scared at first too. I fell about 2 feet onto my cam placement, and closer to 4 or 5 feet onto my tricam. Little, piddly falls, but it helps build confidence for that big whipper. I can sure say I wasn't runnin anything out tho. Part of that was because I wanted to practice my placement for when it really mattered, part of it was because I didn't want to run it out. I'd almost rather just fall because I'm pushin myself, not on purpose. But I think I have to build that confidence, or I'll never be able to push myself on lead.
wildtrail,
I'm no longer a lead virgin, but that doesn't mean i'm YOUR hoe course, if you threatened to take the use of your rack away, I'm sure I'd come whimpering back
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wildtrail
Aug 8, 2002, 7:47 PM
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They all come back. They all come back...to Stevie!
Steve
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wiegs
Aug 8, 2002, 7:52 PM
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hahaha. suuuure they do. once i get a rack, the world had better watch out. I may never toutch the ground again!!
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wildtrail
Aug 8, 2002, 7:53 PM
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Dude. I don't think your touching the ground now!
And they call me a space cadet....Hmmmph!
Steve
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wiegs
Aug 8, 2002, 8:31 PM
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sure, sure, I see how it is. I did go climb again after you dropped me off. indoors, but eh, such is life. I'm glad we're climbing again this weds, because I don't know how long I can wait before I lead again. sheesh. I thought I liked climbing before...
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punk
Aug 8, 2002, 8:37 PM
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Wiegs, wildtrail
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wildtrail
Aug 8, 2002, 8:45 PM
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Very funny, Neri! Very funny!
Steve
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cragchica
Aug 8, 2002, 9:29 PM
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I have been wanting to lead trad for some time, but after spending a few days in Yosemite I am practically dying to get up on the rock with a rack of my own. I can hardly count the number of people I talked to both at the crags and at Camp 4 who were leading for the first time while I was there. I was biting at the bit, but it seemed to much to ask my partner to let me.
Most of my experience has been sport climbing. When I started out, I bored quickly with top-roping. I got the same types of responses them that I get when I talk about leading trad now: 'You don't have enought experience. It's more dangerous than you think.' After leading sport for a while, my sport climbing friends say 'Go for it, you could lead trad.' My friends who climb trad still say 'No way, you'll kill yourself' I really want to start leading, but I still sorta wonder whether they might be right... what do you think?
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wildtrail
Aug 8, 2002, 9:39 PM
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I don't think they are right at all. It is how you feel. If you are comfortable on rock, and with a certain rating, then you should be fine. Should.
Start with an easy route, like I showed Brett (wiegs). Like 5.4 (or even easier if necessary). Get a couple of books on anchors and stuff and read up, but most importantly, climb with someone that is experienced in leading trad and have them "show you the ropes". Starting on a route with a rating that you are very, very comfortable with, learn to place pro, equalize, etc and then advance from there. Its like rock climbing, a learning adventure. You walk before you run.
Get out there and do it! Just be careful!
Steve
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wiegs
Aug 8, 2002, 9:40 PM
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well, let's put it this way....i've been climbing for about 2 months. never touched a sport route in my life. I started trad yesterday. As long as you understand how to place gear, and are willing to start at routes way below your actual climbing ability, that are easily protectable, go for it! I had a ball yesterday, and didn't die, not even once!
Stu, I wish I had something to sell. I have a guitar, but won't part with that, nor will I part with my hockey gear...but that leaves me with...my computer? well, bye all, you'll never hear from me again, I'm off to sell my computer!!!
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farmerc
Aug 8, 2002, 10:09 PM
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hey, i did my first trad lead yesterday and it was really sweet. it was an easy climb, but really fun.
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markd
Aug 10, 2002, 1:39 AM
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Trad is life...........
Recently climbed at Devils Lake, talk about old school climbing. Loved every minute of it. Everyone should experience it. Cheers
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natec
Aug 11, 2002, 5:05 AM
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There's old school, old fashioned and just old.
Old school- embracing the traditional ethics and mores of climbing.
Old Fashioned- unwilling to embrace the idea that there are better ways to do things now. just because you have been doing it for a long time doesn't make it the best way. Please contact wildtrail for an example of old fashioned.
Old- Anyone who climbed with Jules Eichorn.
I would also like to take this opportunity to apologise to wildtrail for a heated debate that we got into over the gri gri and soloing. I now agree with you Steve, the gri gri should never be used for soloing and has been accountable for two deaths this year in Yosemite.
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wildtrail
Aug 11, 2002, 5:10 AM
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No apologies are necessary. Things happen and we were only enjoying a good debate. Never got heated on my part. I would like to extend my apologies if I caused some "heat" on your part.
It is a shame to hear of these deaths.
On a lighter note, I embrace things rather well. One is, that you are an a--hole! The other is that my way is the ONLY way!
This is where Dr. Evil says;
Riiiight!
Steve
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natec
Aug 11, 2002, 5:15 AM
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Sorry Steve, I couldn't understand your last post. I don't speak freaky deaky dutch!!!!
You probably haven't seen the new Austin Powers so you won't understand that one. It's ok, I understand that you are "old fashioned" and refuse to go see the new sequel because the old one has to be the best one.
Wiegs and others. Congrats on entering the world of real climbing. Trad is the most satisfying way to climb free.
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apollodorus
Aug 11, 2002, 6:06 AM
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Trad is for people who can't handle gym fees
Trad is for people who can't handle the ridicule of pure sport climbing
Trad is for people who can't handle climbs that have every move marked in chalk
Trad is for people who will someday wind up on a big wall
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metoliusmunchkin
Aug 11, 2002, 6:23 AM
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Trad are for those with, extended forearm endurance (placing gear), bravery (for many reasons), injenuity (also for many reasons), and also for those who can climb the trad lines without the use of Depends ('cause most sport climbers would sh*t their pants on a trad climb).
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wildtrail
Aug 11, 2002, 6:56 AM
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Oh, Boy! Let's not go there!
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