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climbinkeg
Dec 6, 2005, 10:32 PM
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Hi
I was reading about buying cams on one of the older threads. How come people say that they don't use a number four cam? On the bd website it says that they are only for cracks up to 4.5 inches. Also what are good cam sizes to get? I'm looking at the bd cams because I like how they feel the best.
Thanks,
Keith
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angry
Dec 6, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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In reply to: Hi I was reading about buying cams on one of the older threads. How come people say that they don't use a number four cam? On the bd website it says that they are only for cracks up to 4.5 inches. Also what are good cam sizes to get? I'm looking at the bd cams because I like how they feel the best. Thanks, Keith
The old #4, not the C4, is the best cam BD ever made. People that don't use it are not climbing things it would fit in.
The new #4 C4 pisses me off so much.
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chanceboarder
Dec 6, 2005, 10:43 PM
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i actually use my #4 (C4) a lot, but not as much as i use the smaller sizes though. .75 to 2 being the camalot sizes i place most often out in j-tree.
as for what sizes are good to get that depends on where you climb. ask some of the locals in your area what sizes you'll be needing. also check the guide books for the areas you'll be climbing. often times they'll say what size pro you'll be needing.
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grk10vq
Dec 6, 2005, 10:50 PM
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In reply to: The new #4 C4 pisses me off so much.
man. you really are 'angry'.
back to the question.
the #4 tends to be the least used of the cams. that being said...
the #4 tends to be the most used of the cams.
it depends on what you climb.
i climb a lot in the desert. the #4 (new or old) becomes a "god send".
look at what you intend to climb and the kind of climbs at which you intend to climb, (anything larger than hand sized?) and try to decide if you need that cam yet. you can always wait and get it later.
in a few cases, a #3 placement higher or lower worked in the past while my #4 sat in the car eating cheese doodles.
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adamd
Dec 6, 2005, 11:05 PM
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For many people who moan about the demise of the original #4 camalot, the problem isn't the new features or design...the problem is that the old #4 camalot and the new C4 #4 aren't the same size. For a lot of people an old #4 was PERFECT fists. The new one isn't exactly the same range.
P3 of Tulgey Wood on the Tower anyone?
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climbinkeg
Dec 7, 2005, 12:06 AM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Mar 25, 2005
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Hi,
Thanks for the help. I thought that the # 4 was like in the middle upper range for cam sizes.
Thanks,
Keith
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salamanizer
Dec 7, 2005, 1:23 AM
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In reply to: Hi, Thanks for the help. I thought that the # 4 was like in the middle upper range for cam sizes. Thanks, Keith
Lots of people don't use a #4 because thats the size where cracks start to get wide. For some reason, (some) people don't like to get into the wide stuff too often. Personally, I think the wide stuff is where all the fun is. Two #4's will get you pretty far in Yosemite, but be unnecessary bagage in a lot of other places. IMO, #4, 5 & 6 B.D. cams are in the upper range for cam sizes....besides the Valley Giants. You probably won't need one for a while if you're just starting out though.
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blouderk2
Dec 7, 2005, 2:09 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2004
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I have a #4 BD C4 that I use. It doesnt get much use, but it is good to have when I need it. Especially for the bigger stuff.
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vegastradguy
Dec 7, 2005, 2:20 AM
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i'm actually suprised more folks dont carry the #4, since as much as some folks despise wide climbing, it is pretty hard to avoid on some level if you climb any multipitch trad.
interestingly, it is also at this strange size that the climbing becomes awkward and insecure for most climbers who are not seasoned on offwidth climbing- making the desire for this size of pro very high!
i carry the new C4 #4 all the time and use it frequently....
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takanhase
Dec 7, 2005, 2:30 AM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2004
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I have an older model #4 and seem to have used it for mostly just T.R anchors. But then again I'm still quite new to the world of trad. How ever as far as the rest of the sizes go I really like my C4' in 0.5 to 2 the most.
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