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camilleguignard
Dec 9, 2005, 6:06 AM
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hi,
I have been climbing for about a year now and I have already distroyed two pair of shoes (I've bought the third one) not that I am stingy but if I could keep them a bit longer than 6 month I would not mind...
The first pair was mad rock(may be not a good choice for beginner completely fkd up) and the second were La sportiva Katana (I think they could be repaired if I send them to europe). Ok i have been climbing 2 to 3 times a week in gyms and sometimes outside during the week-ends, living in thailand when we go outside the rock can be quite sharp and I guess sand does a good deal on breaking the shoes faster (although I brush them a bit if we climbed on the beaches)
Still I see some of the people I climb with able to keep their shoes much longer, so is it because my foot work is very bad or is my climbing style hard on shoes or is it just normal to change shoes every 6 month or a year?
if you have any advises please send them.
thanks
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overlord
Dec 9, 2005, 1:33 PM
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yout footwork might be an issue. heres something that should help a bit.
another thing to consider is having a designated gym shoe and just resole it to the death. in fact, get katans resoled and you have a dedicatet gym shoe.
apart from that, check out la sportiva mythos. they seem to last quite a while. thick and hardish rubber mixed with shape that doesnt loose performance when worn out (as opposed to, say, testarossa).
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crazyclimbergirl
Dec 9, 2005, 7:00 PM
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I love the evolv shoes! There website is evolvclimbing.com I've had mine since April and I cilimb indoors 2-3 times a week and outdoors once a week and they've held up great!
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tor2
Dec 9, 2005, 7:08 PM
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i usually resole my shoes every year, and think that is quite a good life span. i'm starting some 5.10, but had a bunch of la sportivas, really love them.
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vegastradguy
Dec 9, 2005, 9:28 PM
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i think the best answer to your question is that you need to resole your shoes.
as a beginner, you'll burn through the soles of your shoes faster because you are still learning proper footwork techniques and general climbing techniques. you're also spending alot of time in the gym, which is hard on shoes anyway. it is not uncommon to burn through a pair of shoes in a couple of months when you're new, so don't feel too bad.
however, there is no need to buy new shoes. a second pair is good to have so that you can climb while you've sent the first pair out to be resoled. just rotate them out and you should be good to go for a long while. a good resole job can last just as long or longer than the original factory job- and some shoes can see quite a few resoles before they are trash.
I whole heartedly recommend Yosemite Bum resoles (maker of Evolv shoes) for this type of work. I've been nothing but completely satisfied with all of the resoling they have done for me over the years.
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mother_sheep
Dec 9, 2005, 10:23 PM
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Is it that unusual to go through shoes that fast? Seems like mine tend to last 6 months tops, regardless of who makes them. Then again I average about 4 days per week climbing inside or outside.
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Dec 10, 2005, 12:05 AM
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i climb 3-4 days a week usually indoor with a weekend day trip to do some bouldering. i currently wear 5.10mocs and they seem to last great but stretch alot. i loved my mad rock sharks but the mad rock rubber tends to wear very very quickly. i really like the 5.10 last on the rubber so far. thats my 2 cents.
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theirishman
Dec 10, 2005, 1:09 AM
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ive tried mad rock ive tried evolve ive trie :lol:
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nevenneve
Dec 10, 2005, 4:16 AM
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In reply to: ive tried mad rock ive tried evolve ive trie :lol:
:roll: I tried not to name drop.
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jwood
Dec 11, 2005, 7:21 AM
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For me, Mad Rocks wore out significantly faster than any other shoe. Evolv seems to me to be the most durable for your money.
One thing that helps the life of my shoes is warming up in an old pair. If I'm on a climb that doesn't require intricate foot work, I don't wear good shoes. In fact, that's where completely blown out shoes come in handy.
Jordan
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camilleguignard
Dec 12, 2005, 3:27 AM
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Thanks for the infos, advises and links to articles.
:)
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skinner
Dec 12, 2005, 4:02 AM
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In reply to: I have been climbing for about a year now and I have already distroyed two pair of shoes (
2 pairs a year is a lot? I always thought that was about normal.
Although I know some people with extreme "RottenFoot Syndrome" that would be doing us all a favor by disposing of their shoes after no more then a week!
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arrowhead
Dec 12, 2005, 6:11 AM
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I climbo on average 2-3 times weekly, and have had about 5-6 pairs of shoes in the past 4 years, trashing them out on average every 6 months. My latest pair is a Tenaya - not very well-known, but it's lasted me the whole 2 YEARS of active climbing.
I'm sure improvements in footwork has helped, but still.. 2 years is a lot longer than any of the other shoes have ever lasted.
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sharpshootr987
Dec 12, 2005, 6:22 AM
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I would say 1-2 pairs a year is average for a weekly climber.
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kirsten00
Dec 12, 2005, 11:43 PM
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I go through 2 - 3 pairs per year ... It depends on the amount of trips away that I do, usually when I climb locally I have no worries and my shoes last longer, however when I go away on climbing trips my shoes tend to wear out faster - odd?!
Mad Rock is my fav. brand so far, btw.
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jenner
Dec 13, 2005, 2:13 AM
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I believe that going through 2 pairs of shoes per year is about average for most climbers.
I use to climb with a big group of guys and a couple of them were new and they put holes in those shoes so fast (about every 3-4 months) so I started paying more attention to why they did that. They would always either drag their feet as they went up or they clawed at the wall to find a foot hold instead of leaning back and looking down.
Foot work is something you should pay attention to and be aware of anyway.
Also, Mad rock is not the best shoe to buy. I worked in a gym for a short while and I had many complaints about them falling apart or their "soft rubber" wearing out too fast.
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gregjkm
Dec 24, 2005, 9:11 AM
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I have heard that madrock rubber wears out faster because it has more grip. I dont know if this is true but its what i have been told. My mad rocks are going strong after 2 months of 5+ days a week climbing :)
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rastafari
Dec 24, 2005, 1:18 PM
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Depends on footwork and climbing style. I wreck two pairs of shoes per year and I climb 4-5 times a week. When your tehnique progresses your shoes will probably last longer. Beginners tend to wreck shoes quicker cause they climb easier routes with better and bigger footholds.
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dwise
Dec 24, 2005, 2:25 PM
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2-3 pair a year??? Great googly moogly, that's some expensive poor footwork!
When the sole is looking worn, have them resoled before the front rand starts wearing down. It you have to resole the front rand, it totally changes the character of the shoe and you might as well buy a new pair.
Also, take care of them. Put them on at the base of the climb and take them off when you get down. Don't walk around in them or do long walkoffs in them.
I've had my Kaukulators for about 6 years (2 resoles) and they've probably got a few more years to go (have to milk them since they stopped making them). I go through laces faster than soles on those.
My Mythos usually last about 2 years. Granted, I'm stuck in E.TX and not climbing as much now, but even when I was climbing 4+ days a week, there's no way I'd go through 2 pair a year!
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hillbillywannabe
Dec 24, 2005, 2:59 PM
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don't buy more shoes... resole and use shoe goo t patch leather holes, not purdy, but until you get your footwork down pat its wonderful.
is there any reason not to do this? cause i do it and was wondering if it was err kosher (for lack of better term)
i have found tape comes off to fast, and isnt very permanent, i only have one hole in (only one hehe) my shoes (first pair) and after i gooed it it hasnt come back, or gotten worse.
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redlegrangerone
Dec 24, 2005, 7:16 PM
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We have one guy inour group who goes through shoes in a couple of months, but he also flails like a bailing machine on everything. I just got my first resole back from Yosemitebum. Very nice.
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sick_climba
Dec 24, 2005, 7:30 PM
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Your foot work bro. Though you need to trust your feet don't ride them too hard. Also the rock type. If you are climbing granit you will loose shoes like no other I have personaly gone though two pairs and I am on my third . Both of the previouse two lost their rubber on granite.
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haggis
Dec 24, 2005, 9:09 PM
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Thailand limestone is harsh on climbing shoes because its sharp so in my opinion your not going through alot of shoes. I go through a pair of Anastazi every 4 months and i (sighhh) seldom climb on gorgeous limestone anymore.
I had a pair of shoes resoled in Krabi-Thailand (local climbing store on Riley Bay). They sent them off to Bangkok and i got them back a few weeks later and they were fine. The material split before i ever wore out the second resole
TOP TIP :wink: -Get a pair of tights and a whole lotta of baking soda.Make 2 baking soda sausages out of the tight legs that will fit in your shoes. This helps dry the shoes and stop your feet slipping around and it helps with the smell.Oh the smell!
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