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yankeebama


Dec 12, 2005, 10:14 AM
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New Rack
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I'm going to start a new rack this Christmas. I was thinking about getting a set of Black Diamond nuts and Metolius cam set 00 to 4. Any thoughts?
thanks


hammerhead


Dec 12, 2005, 10:24 AM
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You really need to give us a *weee* bit more info to go on. Like, how long you've been climbing? Are you leading yet? Where do you intend to do most of your climbing? Do you already own some gear? Do you have friends that own gear that you can borrow? How much do you have to spend? Etc, etc...

Al


caughtinside


Dec 12, 2005, 10:26 AM
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Re: New Rack [In reply to]
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What does how long you've been climbing have to do with the brand of cams you're going to get?


iamcolinslack


Dec 12, 2005, 10:39 AM
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i say right on with the metolius cams.


rcpeters


Dec 12, 2005, 10:49 AM
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If all I had was a set of nuts and 6 cams I would purchase larger cams since the nuts can cover the smaller placements.


scrapedape


Dec 12, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Re: New Rack [In reply to]
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In reply to:
What does how long you've been climbing have to do with the brand of cams you're going to get?

Probably very little.

But it has plenty to do with what sizes of cams he might want to get.

For example, a new leader like me might want skip the #00 and #0 cams and get a 5 and a 6 instead.


bobruef


Dec 12, 2005, 12:44 PM
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camalots .75-3 doubles in 1 and 2


Partner climboard


Dec 12, 2005, 1:08 PM
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Re: New Rack [In reply to]
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Metolius makes good cams but you may want to reconsider the size range. The smallest two or three cams usually aren't as useful to a newer leader as the larger cams.

I'd recommend the range .4-3 Camalots cover for a starter rack. Your Stoppers will cover anything smaller for now.

I'd also recommend substituting Tricams for the largest 2 or 3 stoppers as they are lighter, cover a bigger range, and fit where nothing else will sometimes.


yankeebama


Dec 13, 2005, 9:52 AM
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thanks for the help. I've been climbing for about 5years. At the best of times I climb 5-11sport. I have followed on trad a bunch, but would love to start leading...5-8 or 5-9. I do have friends with gear but would like to have a rack of my own. I turned to the Black diamond nut set and metrolius set because i figured they would be cheaper than buying individualy.
Thanks,
David


bobruef


Dec 13, 2005, 10:04 AM
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At gearexpress.com, if you order 3 or more cams, you get 10% off. Most places have similar deals.


clayman


Dec 13, 2005, 10:10 AM
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Camalots down to .4, also green, yellow, grey and red Aliens (maybe blue too or the Blue Tech. Friend). MUST have the RED one, a great cam. I recommend spend the extra $ for Camalots, Metolius make good cams too, but I guess I'm biased towards Camalots, they're so friggin' cool.
cl


landgolier


Dec 13, 2005, 10:27 AM
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Metolius are on sale lots of places right now as they clean out the current model in favor of a new, slightly lighter design. The 00-4 set is still a good deal if you can find it for $200 or maybe like $220. If you are a 5.11 sport climber and get into trad, you'll likely need the little ones soon anway, but other people had it right, only up to #4 won't get you far.

Metolius for $39: http://www.backcountrygear.com/catalog/climbdetail.cfm/MET1001
They also have TCU's for $36, but they're sold out of 0 and 2.


esoteric1


Dec 23, 2005, 7:41 PM
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if i was you, i wouldnt go any larger than the red metolius, they rock in the smaller sizes, but in my opinion, once you go beyond red.....they get worse and worse,
and for the really large, im partial to wild country.


kason


Dec 23, 2005, 8:39 PM
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You also need to consider what kind of rock you are climbing on, and whether the placements are horizontal or vertical. I love the Metolius tcu's for smaller placements. For small horizontal cracks I prefer aliens. Metolius makes the fat cam which works well on sandstone. Camalots rock for larger placements, and the c4s help shed the weight.
Keep following and placing your partners gear on lead. Build a rack suited for the areas you will climb at so you don't waste money on something you wont use.


climb_ian


Dec 23, 2005, 8:54 PM
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i have .4 through 3 and doubles in .5 ...1 ....and 2.....and hope to get a set of aliens for x-mas.. black diamond stoppers and hexes 1-5 (still havent used one but maybe one day) :?


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