|
theirishman
Dec 15, 2005, 4:23 AM
Post #1 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 17, 2005
Posts: 169
|
is there a trick to slopers im missing, never can get a decent grip on them
|
|
|
|
|
cosmiccragsman
Dec 15, 2005, 6:49 AM
Post #2 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2005
Posts: 778
|
No one can get a decent hold on a sloper. Friction using as much of the hand area as possible on a sloping hold, with my whole hand tensioned off,
( like gripping a basketball with one hand) is what I do with slopers. Also keep the momentum going and move fast and not hang around on sloping holds, always keeping your eyes open for better holds :)
cosmiccragsman
|
|
|
|
|
czmanor
Dec 15, 2005, 9:15 AM
Post #3 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 20
|
suction cups... although they are banned in some gyms
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Dec 15, 2005, 12:23 PM
Post #4 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
body tension is the key.
|
|
|
|
|
outsideguyzak
Dec 15, 2005, 2:40 PM
Post #5 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 169
|
keeping as much weight as possible on the the holds. The more you weight them, the more friction you get from them. Of course, if there are also non-sloping holds then you wouldn't want to be putting extra weight on the slopers. Body position, opposition and body tension have helped me the most.
|
|
|
|
|
levi_owens
Dec 15, 2005, 3:32 PM
Post #6 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2005
Posts: 2
|
whenever possible, I use my teeth (and give useless beta).
Just practice. Get used to the feeling of open-hand friction. Try doing a couple sloper pullups each time you're in the gym. They feel unnatural to everyone at first.
-Levi
|
|
|
|
|
digit
Dec 15, 2005, 3:42 PM
Post #7 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2004
Posts: 21
|
As much pressure and contact area as I can... and faith.
Being as static as possible also helps a lot.
But faith is always the key.
fc
|
|
|
|
|
xjlx
Dec 15, 2005, 6:40 PM
Post #8 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2005
Posts: 122
|
If possible "get low" on them, I've been told that the lower you can be on a sloper the more effective it is. (ie. putting some weight on it)
|
|
|
|
|
kubi
Dec 15, 2005, 6:54 PM
Post #9 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 815
|
feet placement and body tension is the key, I think. Once I figure out how to pull as hard as possible at the best angle i can usually cruise through the slopers without much trouble (at least slopers at my current, abysmal, bouldering level).
|
|
|
|
|
slopetastic
Dec 15, 2005, 7:05 PM
Post #10 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2005
Posts: 3
|
I love sloper (hence the name) and have found two things that work for me.
First, feel around the hold, often subtle changes in texture can make a huge difference, turning a desperate move into a comfy rest (kind of)
Second, keep you centre of gravity directly below you point of contact. If it's a side-pull sloper, keep your direction of pull in line with the point of contact. This goes hand-in-hand w/ footwork & body tension to keep as much weight on the slope as possible and maximize friction.
Cheers
|
|
|
|
|
notch
Dec 15, 2005, 8:16 PM
Post #11 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
Keep your elbows as close to the wall as possible. It makes the hold a little more positive.
|
|
|
|
|
cmacblue42
Dec 16, 2005, 4:34 AM
Post #12 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 131
|
slopers are all in your forearms and core especialy in the gym. outdoors on sandstone, the rock feels like sandpaper making it a little more easier than greasy, 2 year old, worn out plastic
|
|
|
|
|
jemco
Dec 16, 2005, 4:55 AM
Post #13 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2005
Posts: 77
|
This will sound painfully obvious, but the best way to make slopers feel better is to spend tons of time on slopers. I feel over the years my greatest gains in strength have come in the form of contact strength (all the better to hold slopers) When I first started bouldering I slipped off nearly all holds that didn't have really obvious edges. Then as I gained technique and strength I have found slopers are often holds I can almost rest on. Go to the gym and hold onto slopers until you fall from them. Try changing your body position to get "under" the sloper as much as you can and then wait to peel off. Get back on and repeat.
jemco
|
|
|
|
|
kubi
Dec 16, 2005, 4:58 AM
Post #14 of 14
(2730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 815
|
In reply to: Keep your elbows as close to the wall as possible. It makes the hold a little more positive.
q4t
once somone explained this to me it made a world of difference
|
|
|
|
|
|
