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liquidshadow111
Dec 15, 2005, 11:47 PM
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Ok, I'll give it to you short and sweet. I want to be able to climb a few grades harder than what I can climb now (5.9), and be able to climb stuff with POWER. How do I do it? Ive got the time, I just need to know what to do. Thanks.
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xjlx
Dec 16, 2005, 12:26 AM
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Power ??? You could try bouldering if you don't already do that.
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t-dog
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Dec 16, 2005, 12:29 AM
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And why do you want to do it with *POWER*? Powering your way up a climb is not an aesthetic way to climb at all.
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milominderbinder
Dec 16, 2005, 12:34 AM
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If you just climb consistently, throw in some bouldering, I don't see why you can't fairly quickly jump up to 11, at least.
I started a couple months ago, and I've found that when I focus on technique, and once my hands weren't pathetically weak, I can push 11's, 10's are not a problem. I swam just about everyday before taking up climbing, so I don't know if that helped, but 10's and 11's are an easy goal if you just are climbing for fun, and not really looking to intensely train.
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nevenneve
Dec 16, 2005, 12:42 AM
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:x That and a lot of rest in between. Ramping up two number grades could happen fairly quickly but power and consistency at that level takes time to develop. By the way do you mean power as in speed campusing or solid go for miles climbing?
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baja_java
Dec 16, 2005, 1:10 AM
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grades can not be pushed. you can't push against something that doesn't push back nor stands its ground. go ahead, lean up against it, if you can actually physically find it, and push, and you'd see you'd only tumble over and hit your head on the ground and get yourself a big lump on the forehead
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obnoxice
Dec 16, 2005, 1:24 AM
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If you climb 5.9, forget about power first. Focus on technique. Power will come. You can climb 11's without that much power. Watch how women climb, they'll push the grades without utilizing too much power. Understand the movements and sequences of every routes you get on rather than overpowering each moves. When you build enough core techniques, then do power. :)
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liquidshadow111
Dec 16, 2005, 2:08 AM
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In reply to: And why do you want to do it with *POWER*? Powering your way up a climb is not an aesthetic way to climb at all.
I want power for tough moves like dynos, not for charging up climbs.
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ajkclay
Dec 16, 2005, 3:31 AM
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unless your technique is perfect this is often the best way to get the most out of your dynos too.
like any other aspect of climbing there are many elements to dynoing such as hand and feet placement, launch timing, keeping constant power, aiming at the hold, catch accuracy and contact strength.
to get more power from your dynos try to concentrate on pushing down with each point of contact until they come off the hold; that is, don't let go, keep pushing down with hands and feet until they just do not reach the hold they started on any more. If you watch many people dyno you wil notice that they let go of holds when in actual fact they can still reach them once they grab the target hold, this is a big waste of potential push.
cheers
Adam
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squierbypetzl
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Dec 16, 2005, 4:06 AM
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Start climbing more. Don´t worry about dynoing until you´re pushing 10´s, which shouldn´t take you too long if you train right.
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oldtradman
Dec 16, 2005, 4:49 AM
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As other posters have stated: climb. climb, climb. My own recent experience confirms this.
I got back into climbing six weeks ago after enjoying eight years as weekend rail meat sailing competitively. Believe me, time spent grinding a winch does not make up for the time spent sitting on the rail and drinking beer (sometimes simultaneously) so weak is probably a weak word to describe my upper body fitness. I'm now stuck out of town during the week and have been hitting the rock gym 2-3 times a week and the gains are dramatic! Tonight I pulled six jug-ups on a Metoolius board - up from zero - and my technique is smoother - no more kicking the wall looking for that hold before my arms give out. I have no idea of the V rating of anything when I started or what I did tonight but I am having a blast.
Climb, climb, climb!
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obnoxice
Dec 16, 2005, 5:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: And why do you want to do it with *POWER*? Powering your way up a climb is not an aesthetic way to climb at all. I want power for tough moves like dynos, not for charging up climbs.
Most outdoor routes does not require the need for dynos. And why dyno if you could simply step up and reach the next hold. :)
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jt512
Dec 16, 2005, 7:08 PM
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In reply to: Ok, I'll give it to you short and sweet. I want to be able to climb a few grades harder than what I can climb now (5.9), and be able to climb stuff with POWER. How do I do it? Ive got the time, I just need to know what to do. Thanks.
Do a search for the standard books on training for climbing that every climber has on his bookshelf. Then, get off the internet and into the gym.
Jay
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jaybird2
Dec 16, 2005, 8:00 PM
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These are three of the ingredients to climbing harder:
1. Get out there, climbing is a key part of this.
2. Hookup with a partner that is in the same place as you.
(Mentally and schedule-wise. If you just get out two or three days a week for a good session, every week, you will get better. Hitting it every other day doesn't allow some people enough time to recover. Muscles recover fast, but other tissues (tendons, etc.) don't. Figure out what works best for you.)
3. AS SOON AS you get comfortable with a grade, step it up a letter. Learn to enjoy falling (sport), it is proportional to how hard you are working to climb harder. For trad this would read: Learn to enjoy hanging on pieces.
And don't aspire to dyno. Dynos are the jump turns of the climbing world. Sure they can look cool to someone that doesn't climb much, but those who do know how to climb are just thinking about how a strong static move would have been soooo much sweeter. There is a time and a place for them, reserve them for this time and place.
Good luck. If you are addicted to climbing you won't need it though.
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daithi
Dec 16, 2005, 8:01 PM
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In reply to: Powering your way up a climb is not an aesthetic way to climb at all.
That's the mantra of the weak! :)
Seriously though liquidshadow111 if you want to improve from 5.9 to 5.11 obnoxice is right. Focus on technique.
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jt512
Dec 16, 2005, 8:03 PM
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In reply to: And don't aspire to dyno. Dynos are the jump turns of the climbing world. Sure they can look cool to someone that doesn't climb much, but those who do know how to climb are just thinking about how a strong static move would have been soooo much sweeter.
Jay
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cruxy
Dec 16, 2005, 8:08 PM
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How often do you climb right now? If you are only climbing one or twice a weekend you won't make it. The more you climb, the better you get. Joining a gym really helps. I was against it at first, but it does wonders for strength and stamina.
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