|
dyomad
Dec 29, 2005, 6:26 PM
Post #1 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 6, 2005
Posts: 31
|
If you were going to buy only three of them do you find the smallest to be the least useful or the biggest? Longterm plans call for a double set (and a ferrari) but for now I'm picking up three and I'd like to know what others thought was most useful. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
jorgle
Dec 29, 2005, 6:31 PM
Post #2 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2002
Posts: 236
|
In reply to: If you were going to buy only three of them do you find the smallest to be the least useful or the biggest?
yes, but it depends on where you climb. I've used the larger ones more often then the smallest one, but I'm out in jtree, tahquitz and Yose mostly.
J
|
|
|
|
|
sspssp
Dec 29, 2005, 6:44 PM
Post #3 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
|
For aid climbing (especially Yosemite pin scars) the smallests are the most useful.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Dec 29, 2005, 7:21 PM
Post #4 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: If you were going to buy only three of them do you find the smallest to be the least useful or the biggest? Longterm plans call for a double set (and a ferrari) but for now I'm picking up three and I'd like to know what others thought was most useful. Thanks.
Buy whatever you can find. They're always out of stock. You can probably resell them for more than you paid for them.
As for favorites...It's like being asked to pick your favorite child. A full set is 4...Why not spring for the extra?
Actually, if I had to drop one it would probably be the biggest since the regular cams are a little more forgiving in that range. I use Blue/Black the least. However, sometimes when I have used the blue/black, it's seemed like the only thing that would work at all.
I guess if I can't be on a bomber hybrid, I'd rather be on a 2 lobed red alien than a two lobed blue or black. I aim to avoid this problem by having lots of hybrids and offset nuts and avoiding hard aid climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
sspssp
Dec 30, 2005, 5:04 PM
Post #5 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
|
In reply to: I use Blue/Black the least. However, sometimes when I have used the blue/black, it's seemed like the only thing that would work at all.
If I could only have one hydbrid for aid climbing, the above is probably why I would go with the blue/black even though I probably use the green/blue more often. I don't use the red/yellow that much (even on the Yosemite pin scarred free climbs), but the yellow/green also gets a lot of use (but more for free climbs).
And yea, order far in advance and be prepared to wait.
|
|
|
|
|
ricardol
Dec 30, 2005, 5:29 PM
Post #6 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
|
basically the same answer ..
blue/green
green/yellow
are the two most common placements i make ..
picking between the yellow/red and the black/blue is hard because when you need them .. hardly anything else will work as well ..
.. but if you can only take one -- i'd take the black/blue -- since making that small of a placement bomber with other gear is harder than doing the same for the yellow/red ..
the A4 pitch on south seas would have been ALOT tougher if it had not been for the 2 black/blue offsets i had on hand .. damm those f'ing pieces are scary sometimes.
|
|
|
|
|
dyomad
Dec 30, 2005, 5:36 PM
Post #7 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 6, 2005
Posts: 31
|
Thanks for the info and your time. Sounds like good advice and supports what I already suspected. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
jeremy11
Jan 2, 2006, 6:20 PM
Post #8 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 597
|
iamthewallress wrote
In reply to: avoiding hard aid climbing |
|
|
|
|
jeremy11
Jan 2, 2006, 6:22 PM
Post #9 of 9
(2082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 597
|
iamthewallress wrote
In reply to: avoiding hard aid climbing |
|
|
|
|
|
