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sveh_7
Dec 31, 2005, 3:45 AM
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Ha ha now that I have your attention.
I got in an argument with a friend of mine. He had put the draw and clipped his first shut at the top of a run out 11c. There was a second pitch to this sport climb which he wasn't going to do, but the person above him dropped a piece of gear. He dived out to catch the piece and probably prevented someone getting clanked on the head below.
Here is the issue. This would be his first 11c. As a matter of fact, it would be his first 11 other than an 11a, but he never clipped the second clip. When he dove out to get that piece, he came off. I want to tell him he got the route, but I think it would not be ethical to give him credit. He's not talking to me anymore and I understand why. But I feel too many people screw with standards these days to let something like that slip.
Maybe I'm just old fashioned.
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sveh_7
Dec 31, 2005, 3:48 AM
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Ha ha now that I have your attention.
I got in an argument with a friend of mine. He had put the draw and clipped his first shut at the top of a run out 11c. There was a second pitch to this sport climb which he wasn't going to do, but the person above him dropped a piece of gear. He dived out to catch the piece and probably prevented someone getting clanked on the head below.
Here is the issue. This would be his first 11c. As a matter of fact, it would be his first 11 other than an 11a, but he never clipped the second clip. When he dove out to get that piece, he came off. I want to tell him he got the route, but I think it would not be ethical to give him credit. He's not talking to me anymore and I understand why. But I feel too many people screw with standards these days to let something like that slip.
Maybe I'm just old fashioned.
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wydown
Dec 31, 2005, 3:57 AM
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You can't be serious.
Are you?
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veganboyjosh
Dec 31, 2005, 3:57 AM
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In reply to: You can't be serious. Are you?
i think he's doubly serious.
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erin
Dec 31, 2005, 4:05 AM
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just because you're jealous doesn't mean you have to be a jerk. Props to your friend on his great climb!
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kason
Dec 31, 2005, 4:12 AM
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In reply to: Props to your friend on his great climb!
And to a great catch!
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mdude
Dec 31, 2005, 4:20 AM
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Sounds like it counts to me.
George W. Bush could get elected for a third term on that propaganda.
Cut and dry.
MD
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deltav
Dec 31, 2005, 4:47 AM
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If he was at the top then he gets the climb...I don't understand the conflict
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roshiaitareya
Dec 31, 2005, 4:52 AM
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Tell your friend if he's going to be stupid and dive off a route just to catch a lousy piece of gear, he doesn't deserve to add that route to his tic list, actually, tell him he shouldn't even be called a climber. End the friendship immediately, you don't want to be climbing with anyone like that.
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grmlly
Dec 31, 2005, 5:31 AM
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i think u both are fools for being so caught up in grades rather than the experience from the climb...cmon be for real
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kman
Dec 31, 2005, 5:33 AM
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Sounds like your an ass for making it an issue and it sounds like he's an ass for not talking to you over such a stupid argument. :roll:
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kman
Dec 31, 2005, 5:38 AM
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Sounds like your an ass for making it an issue and it sounds like he's an ass for not talking to you over such a stupid argument. :roll:
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mowz
Dec 31, 2005, 6:10 AM
Post #14 of 51
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In reply to: Ha ha now that I have your attention. I got in an argument with a friend of mine. He had put the draw and clipped his first shut at the top of a run out 11c. There was a second pitch to this sport climb which he wasn't going to do, but the person above him dropped a piece of gear. He dived out to catch the piece and probably prevented someone getting clanked on the head below. Here is the issue. This would be his first 11c. As a matter of fact, it would be his first 11 other than an 11a, but he never clipped the second clip. When he dove out to get that piece, he came off. I want to tell him he got the route, but I think it would not be ethical to give him credit. He's not talking to me anymore and I understand why. But I feel too many people screw with standards these days to let something like that slip. Maybe I'm just old fashioned.
You brought about the subject of standards and ethics, so here goes. He doesn't get credit for the route because he didn't climb the second pitch. I don't care if he didn't clip both shunts and I wouldn't care if he did. I don't care that he dove for a piece of falling gear and that his decision caused him the second shunt. He didn't complete the ENTIRE route = No send.
Now, if he went back to the route and he did the second pitch (and any other pitch he didn't complete) he would only get a red-point because he had previous knowledge of the first pitch.
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styndall
Dec 31, 2005, 6:21 AM
Post #15 of 51
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In reply to: Ha ha now that I have your attention. I got in an argument with a friend of mine. He had put the draw and clipped his first shut at the top of a run out 11c. There was a second pitch to this sport climb which he wasn't going to do, but the person above him dropped a piece of gear. He dived out to catch the piece and probably prevented someone getting clanked on the head below. Here is the issue. This would be his first 11c. As a matter of fact, it would be his first 11 other than an 11a, but he never clipped the second clip. When he dove out to get that piece, he came off. I want to tell him he got the route, but I think it would not be ethical to give him credit. He's not talking to me anymore and I understand why. But I feel too many people screw with standards these days to let something like that slip. Maybe I'm just old fashioned.
WTF?
Is this sport called carabiner-clipping? How about rope management?
Oh wait, no, it's called climbing. He climbed the route. He got it.
If he'd soloed it, would you say he didn't get it since he didn't clip the chains?
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krazyclimbr
Dec 31, 2005, 6:32 AM
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In reply to: i think u both are fools for being so caught up in grades rather than the experience from the climb...cmon be for real
:righton:
Climb for fun not the bragging rights you hope to achieve.
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dudemanbu
Dec 31, 2005, 6:34 AM
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T0
first post, lame subject.
Nice try though. Wait, no it wasn't.
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roseraie
Dec 31, 2005, 7:06 AM
Post #18 of 51
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In reply to: You brought about the subject of standards and ethics, so here goes. He doesn't get credit for the route because he didn't climb the second pitch. I don't care if he didn't clip both shunts and I wouldn't care if he did. I don't care that he dove for a piece of falling gear and that his decision caused him the second shunt. He didn't complete the ENTIRE route = No send. Now, if he went back to the route and he did the second pitch (and any other pitch he didn't complete) he would only get a red-point because he had previous knowledge of the first pitch.
GOOD answer.
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mlcrisis
Dec 31, 2005, 7:10 AM
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THIS is why sport climbing sucks. 8^)
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mowz
Dec 31, 2005, 7:17 AM
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In reply to: THIS is why sport climbing sucks. 8^)
What does this thread have to do with sport climbing? It could have been a trad lead with anchors put in at the first belay. I showed my ignorance by using the word "shunts" when instead I should have used "pro" because, thinking about it, shunts at a pitch belay wouldn't seem right.
You think sport climbing sucks just because he didn't clip into one of the draws at the belay? I think you suck for giving such a rediculous response.
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skinner
Dec 31, 2005, 7:36 AM
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In reply to: THIS is why sport climbing sucks. 8^)
Well I wouldn't say it sucks.. but it's certainly not my bag, especially when it get this serious.
I am so glad I don't have to worry about this. I basically don't care, if it gets to hard I might clip my aiders in.. or if I get tired. clip my portaledge in and have a nap., drink a beer... whatever :D
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scottquig
Dec 31, 2005, 8:13 AM
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In reply to: What does this thread have to do with sport climbing? |
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mtnfr34k
Dec 31, 2005, 9:26 AM
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In my humble opinion, he can claim to have climbed P1 of "The Air Show", 5.11c, if and only if the first pitch is 11c. If it is a lower grade (like 11b), then the grade needs to reflect the dificulty of the pitch actually climbed. Since he clipped the anchors, he did finish the pitch.
This is an honest claim - as long as he's clear that he only climbed the first pitch, and only grades it at the difficulty of the first pitch.
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overlord
Dec 31, 2005, 9:38 AM
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In reply to: In my humble opinion, he can claim to have climbed P1 of "The Air Show", 5.11c, if and only if the first pitch is 11c. If it is a lower grade (like 11b), then the grade needs to reflect the dificulty of the pitch actually climbed. Since he clipped the anchors, he did finish the pitch. This is an honest claim - as long as he's clear that he only climbed the first pitch, and only grades it at the difficulty of the first pitch.
that would be the best answer i could give you.
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brianri
Dec 31, 2005, 1:42 PM
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I have a related question. I'm new to this sport climbing. Why do they make the handles on the bolts so small? You can only get one finger around them. Why aren't they big enough to grab with your whole hand?
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