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ammon
Jan 4, 2006, 8:06 PM
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I agree with Josh.
On the other hand, I can see how it can get confusing because alpinists use this term all the time when they don't used fixed lines. A push ascent to them is different than a push ascent on Valley bigwalls.
I've never been a big fan of the term "speed climbing", either. It makes it sound like that's all we care about and will do anything for the sake of speed. For some reason people think speed climbers have more impact on the rock and environment. I think it's the exact opposite.
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ricardol
Jan 4, 2006, 9:02 PM
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agreed ..
for the spirit of this conversation we're talking about ascents of big walls without bivies .. (and with minimal equipemnt -- namely rack, rope, and some food/water/jacket) ..
.. ehh -- practice, practice, practice .. -- sheit .. its still january -- (tick, tock, tick, tock)
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climbhigher
Jan 4, 2006, 11:45 PM
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What if you stay awake while sitting on the ledge all night. Then is it a PUSH???? J/K... Anyways, I agree ammon, I don't like that word "Speed climbing" right along with "extreme" and "No Fear". They are all silly phrases. But once you start short fixing, simul climbing, and pulling on gear while free climbing you are leaving the traditional game and going into the speed climbing realm. It's more to it then just "speed" as I think you would agree.
I think i use the term speed climbing meaning we where short fixing to go faster. Not blasting pitons in at will in the name of just plain speed.
SPEED Does not always = better style.
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flamer
Jan 4, 2006, 11:51 PM
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In reply to: SPEED Does not always = better style.
LOL!!!! That's why i like it so much!!! Fewer "rules".....
We ain't gettin' rich, but god damn we're having fun!!
josh
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climbhigher
Jan 4, 2006, 11:54 PM
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Hahhhaahahaaa. Yep.
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mig
Jan 6, 2006, 12:18 PM
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Hello,
I have a doupt in this tecnique:
- What the second climber do after cleaning the pitch and arrived to the belay where the leader fixed the rope in two carabiners with a double figure 8 knot? What and how it's the next step?
- How the leader self-belay when fixed the rope and start the next pitch? With a gri-gri? Knots? Soloist?
Thanks
Miguel
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climbhigher
Jan 6, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Let's see if I can explain this mig.
When the cleaner arrives to the belay he unweights the rope and anchors himself in and then he can untie the "Bunny ear" Figure eight from the anchor.
Now on uncomfortable Aid climbing terrian. This is where the cleaner without removing his gri gri from the rope would start pulling in slack as the Leader pulls rope through his gri gri (The leader is using a gri gri or the trango cinch for selfbelaying) To the belayer. This way there's less chance of a big fall when the leader goes from selfbelay to being belayed by the cleaner.
There's many ways the cleaner can tie him/herself into the anchor and unweight and untie the "bunny ear" figure eight depending on what kind of anchor you have. The simplest anchor being two bolts. Just never rely on adjustable daisy's for this application. only thing adjustable daisy's are used for is for leading and cleaning with a backup.
Did i miss anything? And did I explain that correctly?
On comfortable terrian the leader would just pull up as much slack as he/she needs and "bunny Ear" into the anchor and start leading without selfbelaying him/herself.
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ammon
Jan 7, 2006, 3:39 AM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
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Yeah Chris, I think you did a pretty good job with explaining it. It was nice talking to you the other night.
Mig, this technique is not for everyone. In fact, only a small percentage of climbers use it. It will catch on in the future, BUT.... if you have ANY doubts at all about this system....
Please, DON"T USE IT!!!
It's not for your average wall climber.
I always clip my daisy on the opposite side of the gate (so you can get the loop out easily) Then tie a dog ear at my tie-in point, clip them to the same biners as the short fix.
Now here's a good trick, if you're using a Gri to back yourself up as you were cleaning, simply take the dog ear out of the short fixed line, suck in the slack and you have the person on belay.
If your on sketchy terrain then the leader will be using a Gri to belay him/herself with. When the leader feels comfortable, feed the slack to the belayer.
I probably shouldn't mention how I do it if I'm not feeling sketchy. Ha haa ha.
Cheers, Ammon
Damn, I got sucked right into this thread, huh? How could I resist the subject, haa haa.
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climbhigher
Jan 8, 2006, 6:15 AM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
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Yeah Ammon same here. Went climbing today. Saw to American Eagles. Pretty cool. Makes me wanna learn how to fly....is that possible?
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addiroids
Jan 29, 2006, 5:42 AM
Post #60 of 61
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
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Awesome work guys. I might have to try to convince my partner to do Mescalito in 2 days instead of 7. Is it obvious Yosemite Speed Weapon the whole way up?
Paul
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far_east_climber
Jan 29, 2006, 10:29 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2003
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2 days?!
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