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Fixed rope articles
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andykirkpatrick


Jan 5, 2006, 2:03 PM
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Registered: Sep 23, 2005
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Fixed rope articles
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Hi

just added a couple of articles on fixed ropes (fixing, using, etc) and thought RC aid bods might be interested, especially if you've never done it (it's something that books never mention, but is easy to fuck up). There's also a couple of other wall related articles on the site too.
http://www.psychovertical.com/?fixedropes

http://www.psychovertical.com/?movingfixedrope

Cheers

Andy


andy_reagan


Jan 5, 2006, 2:19 PM
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Thanks a lot, Andy! I really enjoy(ed) reading through your website. I appreciate some of your theory.

Peace,
Andy


Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 5, 2006, 5:14 PM
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cool website dude


majid_sabet


Jan 6, 2006, 12:43 AM
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I found several error in your website. pm me directly.

Majid


skinner


Jan 6, 2006, 1:50 AM
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Kewl site :)

Some comments.

On protecting the rope.. I find (especially on dynamic) that taping with any kind of tape sucks. I seems that no matter how far I tape it, it's never enough when a burly partner loaded with a pack and gear starts jugging. It also really bites trying to get over a long section of taped rope.
Also, if possible I anchor the rope protector to the rock and let the rope slide through it, ensuring it stays in place covering the edge it is suppose to be protecting the rope from, with no chance of a heavy load dragging the prussik over the edge or the protector riding up over the edge (both of which I have experienced).

I am sure most people know this, but for those who don't-
John Harlin died in 1966 on the F.A. of the Direct Route up the 6000' north face of the Eiger. He fell 4,000 feet to his death while jugging a 7mm fixed line that Dougal Haston had ascended earlier and noticed a fray that he *thought* would hold.


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