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the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device?
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Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 6, 2006, 7:34 PM
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the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device?
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Ok, i'm thumbed through most of the older threads on this one, so i thought to make a new one....most of the old posts where "i have 't tried it yet" or "i was unsure about its use"....and one post about a dude emailing yates and they said its not recognmended...i thought that was bogus

so, whats the 2006 opinion on this baby....None of the local gear shops have a rocker and i'd love to get my hands on one before i make a decision between a rocker, or something by wren

cheers,


areuinclimber


Jan 6, 2006, 7:54 PM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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solo free or solo aid?
if solo aid then gri-gri is the way dude. a small modification and you'll have a gri-gri that feeds alot easier. roped solo-free climbing is to much hassle.


Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 6, 2006, 8:06 PM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
solo free or solo aid?
if solo aid then gri-gri is the way dude. a small modification and you'll have a gri-gri that feeds alot easier. roped solo-free climbing is to much hassle.

word....i've only (ignor that mixed result troll thread i started way back when) i've only roped-soloed half a trad fuck, till i said "fuck it" and aided the rest...my intent for this is for solo-aid....but i'll try a trad line with it once i get a new device to see how it feels...

ok MY SYSTEM as of now.....i currently use a un-mod-ed gri gri 20cm runner as a, exstention off my belay loop to a biner via chest harness, its right there so its easy to feld, out of the way of the rack, unlikely i'll go head first, and if i do it'll still stop me).....i use back up knots and my rope is in a backpack (i want to try it with the rope in a mini haul bag cliped to me)...still a clunky system, it works, but a slow plan in the ass, but i'm still new to solo-aid. 20 route or so last season (all 30m or less)

i am gym instructor as a part-time gig, so i think it be bad if the kids saw that my grigri was all fucktup compared to "stock" :lol:

anywho, back to the rocker


esp71


Jan 7, 2006, 7:55 AM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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I've only used it for TR soloing, but it has worked great for me. It feeds very smoothly, catches amazingly quickly and is easy to release.


socalbolter


Jan 7, 2006, 8:22 AM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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I've got one of these that has seen very little use (2 days).

The design works very well (similar to the older USHBA), but for what I'm using it for, I need something that will lock down on a 8-9 mm rope. This doesn't do that as well as I would like.

Anyhow, I'd be willing to sell it for $25 (plus shipping) if someone wants it.

DEVICE HAS BEEN SOLD ALREADY - 1/23/06


gladegp


Jan 7, 2006, 9:19 AM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
if solo aid then gri-gri is the way dude. a small modification and you'll have a gri-gri that feeds alot easier.

OK how is this done. I read about this all the time, but none tells me how it's done. They say "if you want to find it out, you'll find it out". I want some proper explanation, so I know I'll do it right.

I've climbed a lot of aid but no major soloing. I might add that the aid community here is tiny (but the walls are big :D ) so I don't have a lot of people to ask.

This is what I've heard:

The first is to grind down the piece of metal where the rope feeds out. this helps the rope feed through MUCH easier, allowing for hands free operation while free climbing (assuming you have the rope stacked in some sort of but bag)
The second, and most important mod. is to drill a small hole in the tapered part of the grigri and swadge a cable
through it. This in turn can be attached to your chest harness, eliminating the possibility of the rope hammering the lever down and dropping your ass in the event of an awkward or upside down fall

Is this what you've done??

Thanks
Gustav


mdude


Jan 7, 2006, 9:39 AM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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I have one and the only thing is does OK at is TR soloing. Very thing else it SUCKS at. Belay device HA HA HA HA. Sorry that I bought one.

MD


Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 9, 2006, 4:48 PM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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well....thanks dudes...i'll stear away from it then....hummm...second grigri to modify or soloist?.....


esp71


Jan 9, 2006, 5:03 PM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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It's a very specific and limited device, but it does those few things well.
It's an adaptaion of an industrial device for riggers and roofers, etc and is designed to be used with a fixed line.

From the Rocker Manual:

Functions:
1. Basic Rope Ascending device
2. Fixed Rope Safety Brake (Solo top rope applications, and mountaineering fixed rope).
3. Belay Brake
4. Hauling System Brake

Don't slag the tool, use the right one for what you are trying to do. it's not a belay device, it's a brake.


areuinclimber


Jan 9, 2006, 6:18 PM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
if solo aid then gri-gri is the way dude. a small modification and you'll have a gri-gri that feeds alot easier.

OK how is this done. I read about this all the time, but none tells me how it's done. They say "if you want to find it out, you'll find it out". I want some proper explanation, so I know I'll do it right.

I've climbed a lot of aid but no major soloing. I might add that the aid community here is tiny (but the walls are big :D ) so I don't have a lot of people to ask.


The second, and most important mod. is to drill a small hole in the tapered part of the grigri and swadge a cable
through it. This in turn can be attached to your chest harness, eliminating the possibility of the rope hammering the lever down and dropping your ass in the event of an awkward or upside down fall

Is this what you've done??

Thanks
Gustav

this is what im doing. drilling the hole through the plastic bottom and swaging some cable thru so it just changes the angle of the gri-gri and doesnt compromise auto-locking. but as always, still tie back up knots.

the first mod you mention isnt really recommended as it reduces the gri-gri's autolocking capabilities (isnt that what we use them for?) also, from what i understand, grinding the metal could leave burrs and shit to dice up your rope (no thanks).


healyje


Jan 9, 2006, 7:14 PM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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I've been roped solo free climbing for a long, long time and if you get a system wired it isn't a problem of any kind, just different. It's also fast, taking about 2/3 - 3/4 the time of a pair of climbers. I use a grigri with the plate by the biner hole removed and a GoLite "Race" pack for the rope that I modded to add gear slings. I personally love it...


moose_droppings


Jan 9, 2006, 7:46 PM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
if solo aid then gri-gri is the way dude. a small modification and you'll have a gri-gri that feeds alot easier.

OK how is this done. I read about this all the time, but none tells me how it's done. They say "if you want to find it out, you'll find it out". I want some proper explanation, so I know I'll do it right.

This might help you,
Modified GriGri


gladegp


Jan 11, 2006, 12:26 AM
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Re: the 'NEW' yates rocker thread - solo device? [In reply to]
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:) Ok thanks areuinclimber and moose_droppings. That might help


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