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jsoper
Jan 11, 2006, 11:50 AM
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im a decent trad climber looking to get into aiding,
can anyone recommend me a decent book?
ive checked out the fish products website, which is a start,
but any additional info would be great.
thanks.
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far_east_climber
Jan 11, 2006, 1:49 PM
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Big Walls by John Long/Middendorf is a good to lay your foundations.
However, one of the single-best resources available (besides Chongo's books) would be stuff 'passthepitonspete' has written on the forum. Search up the Index to all his threads. You will find them very helpful and by the time you are done reading them you will probably have yourself a crusty ol' beard.
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jsoper
Jan 11, 2006, 2:57 PM
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thanks!!
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bobruef
Jan 11, 2006, 3:05 PM
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Freedom of the Hills has a section on aiding. I'm not an aid-climber, but it seemed like good info, but could probably be expanded on better through other books.
Good book to own though.
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tradclmbr
Jan 11, 2006, 3:14 PM
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there's an old, but good video narrated by Don Reid that is helpful in sequence, penji's, hauling, etc. Im also a trad climber breaking into aid and I found it helpful. Borrowed from a friend, but don't remember the name of it. Better to see than to read
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jaybird2
Jan 11, 2006, 3:14 PM
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A second to PassThePitonsPete's (PTPP) Index on the "Better Way". You will realize that Long's book is incredibly uninformative when it comes to actually getting out there and just doing it. PTPP's Index will make your mind puke if you read too much of it at one time. It is a great place to pick up knowledge/know-how for the simple stuff... but more-so for the really complicated systems. In getting into aid, a lot of it is pretty much go out and do it. Learn the basics of single pitch stuff, where all you need to change is your climbing style, and then worry about the logistics of multi-pitch later. Just look around and you WILL find the basic aid sequence of placing pro, committing, and placing the next piece safely/correctly. Even better, find someone that has done it and go out with them. You will have to be their belay slave, but that is a good thing as you use the time to Q&A them while they are doing it. Sorry I didn't recommend a book, but a teacher is far superior... but books are a great supplement. Go on Amazon and pick up the Ogden book and Long's book since you can get them for cheap.
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nudge_nudge
Jan 11, 2006, 3:36 PM
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In reply to: there's an old, but good video narrated by Don Reid that is helpful in sequence, penji's, hauling, etc. Im also a trad climber breaking into aid and I found it helpful. Borrowed from a friend, but don't remember the name of it. Better to see than to read
'"The Video Guide To Aid Climbing" Host Don Reid Featuring Steve Gerbeding' Bought it out of interest, although I haven't done any aiding yet.
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areuinclimber
Jan 11, 2006, 3:47 PM
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ptpp's stuff is good to get your feet wet, but from reading all his stuff and then doing some walls i've noticed that alot of it is WAAAAAAY to much unnecessary modification. there just seems to be way to much going on with his systems. they are all meant to take the suffering COMPLETELY out of wall climbing but in reality you end up hauling up a ton 0' shit to build these elaborate systems when all you need is a little gumption. and middendorfs guide, but nothing beats actually doing it, fucking up, and learning from your mistakes when your bags dont budge the first time.
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landgolier
Jan 11, 2006, 4:20 PM
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Pete's stuff is good, but if you're not using his whole adjustable daisies/adjustable fifi system you might find his stuff on basic movement a little hard to apply to conventional warfare. I've read Russ' thing, it's pretty good, not a lot of detail but that plus a couple hours of f-ing around on real rock (or a tree) should get you 90% there on basic movement. I have a vague memory of the FOTH thing being a little bit clunky or weird but I can't remember why and I don't have the book here.
I have a frosty 6 pack for you and another one for the man himself for anyone who can get Ammon to write a detailed, for-noobs version of his basic, non-solo sequence.
Note: I feel like the above is a fair caveat (i.e. Pete would probably agree with me), but otherwise any discussion/slagging/whatever of PTPP should probably take place over at the taco where Pete can participate/defend himself.
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karlbaba
Jan 14, 2006, 7:22 AM
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I believe Pete's techniques are not for beginners and most would be confused about what's applicable or not since Pete's techniques are best for solo climbing on the Right side of El Cap but many get impractical on other routes.
Don Reid's video is the best introduction and instructional material a beginner will find.
Peace
Karl
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giza
Jan 14, 2006, 8:36 AM
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Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique is a decent intro to aid climbing. Much more detailed and current than the JL/JM Big Walls Book. I'd highly recommend checking it out.
http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=631
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aspiringmonkey
Jan 14, 2006, 7:02 PM
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I would also recommend getting Freedom of the Hills. It explains clearly the equipment needed, how to use it, and sequencing of actions. In addition to this it is also full over every thing you could think of related to climbing, mountainering and survival in the outdoors. Anyway, i read the section on aiding in it and jumped right onto the west face of the leaning tower and did fine with it all. Good luck
Blakeb
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avitripp
Jan 14, 2006, 7:38 PM
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Jared Ogdens new book is good...and up to date.
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fenderfour
Jan 16, 2006, 4:28 PM
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In reply to: Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique is a decent intro to aid climbing. Much more detailed and current than the JL/JM Big Walls Book. I'd highly recommend checking it out. http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=631
I'm going to throw a "me too" at this book. I've read the John Long book. It's a good place to get started, but it seems like a lot of stuff is mentioned without a great deal of description or illustration. If you have a mentor, this is no bog deal. If you are teaching yourself, it's a pain in the ass.
Ogden's book is chock full of helpful pictures of the systems he describes. I highly recommend it. He tends to focus more on speed climbing and all the tricks contained, so it is by no means a comprehensive manual. When combined with Big Walls and the PTPP stuff, you are looking pretty good.
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epic_ed
Jan 16, 2006, 5:47 PM
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In reply to: Jared Ogdens new book is good...and up to date.
I have heard from more than one source that this book rocks. I haven't read it myself, but it sounds like it fills a need that has existed for a couple of decades.
Pete's stuff is worth reading, but the posts linked via the "Index" are verbose and full of self-promotion. Most people I've talk to aren't as big of a loser as I am and didn't have the time to read through all of his material to get the nuggets of useful information. If Pete would write a condensed and thoughtfully edited version of his "better way" ideas he might fare well compared to some of the competing titles.
Ed
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