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brundige
Jan 5, 2006, 5:55 PM
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What is the Best way to get to stone mountain from Boone.
Where is the best camping near the climbing.
what is the approach to the great arch and what is the best way to access the tree ledge.
What size range for pro does the crack take - thanks
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triceisright
Jan 5, 2006, 6:29 PM
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Best Way to Stone --> basically mapquest it....421S to 18N. Right on Mountain View Rd. and Left on Traphill Rd....after that you'll see signs.
Camping --> there's camping in the park, very close to the trailhead
Approach --> Follow the trail to the big open field (can't miss it) where you have the slabtastic view...turn left towards the face and you're good to go.
Pro --> Not my area of expertise.
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foxtrotuniform
Jan 5, 2006, 6:53 PM
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Did it last week.
First pitch #3 to .75 camalots.
Second pitch #2 down to large nuts.
Third pitch medium nuts and small cams.
Bolted belays all the way up. At the top, there is a small clump of trees right next to the last belay. A good rap route is on the other side of them. Two 60m raps (be sure and bring a second rope) get you back to the tree ledge.
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chronicle
Jan 5, 2006, 7:05 PM
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I don't like being trapped inside the campground after 6:00 or being locked out after 6:00, so I camp at a place called Mom and Pop campground. It's 10-15 minutes down the road. For $11/night you have unlimited firewood, heated shower house and bathrooms.
As for pro, it's been my experience that Pitch 1 will take all of the #2 camelots that you have.
The best way I've found to the tree ledge is U-Slot or Block Route.
Have fun. I was just there for 5 days over New Years weekend. Temps were perfect.
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csproul
Jan 5, 2006, 7:05 PM
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I did it a couple weeks ago as well. We did the u-slot to get to the ledge, which I liked. I'd say if going to the top, the walk off is about as fast as rapping and you don't need anther rope that way. It takes mostly medium nuts and cams (some small), and a couple trees to sling along the way.
Thread hijack: Foxtrotuniform, I noticed you are from Destin and were climbing in NC? I have family in Destin, there can't much climbing there?
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brianinslc
Jan 5, 2006, 8:05 PM
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In reply to: What is the Best way to get to stone mountain from Boone.
Car.
In reply to: Where is the best camping near the climbing.
In Stone Mountain State Park.
In reply to: what is the approach to the great arch and what is the best way to access the tree ledge.
Mitchell's False Start or the Block Route. Both fun. Both a bit harder than the Great Arch.
In reply to: What size range for pro does the crack take - thanks
Gobbles up a standard rack. First few moves are maybe better protected by a larger cam, say, #4 camalot size, but, not required if you can hang in there for a move or two.
Brian in SLC
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foxtrotuniform
Jan 5, 2006, 8:10 PM
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In reply to: I did it a couple weeks ago as well. We did the u-slot to get to the ledge, which I liked. I'd say if going to the top, the walk off is about as fast as rapping and you don't need anther rope that way. It takes mostly medium nuts and cams (some small), and a couple trees to sling along the way. Thread hijack: Foxtrotuniform, I noticed you are from Destin and were climbing in NC? I have family in Destin, there can't much climbing there?
Yeah, tomorrow is the last day of my 2 week road trip back to all my old SE haunts. I hit HP40, Chattanooga, Boone, Stone, Knoxville, and then got bogged down in Memphis visiting old friends. No climbing in Destin, but HP40 isn't THAT far away.
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wjca
Jan 5, 2006, 8:19 PM
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Leave anything bigger than #2 BD. I took a #3 and made myself use, needlessly, on the last pitch to justify it. I took doubles of .5, .75, 1 and 2 BD Camalots, and few smaller tcu's. I never once placed a nut. I did it the day after it rained a lot, so there were several wet spots right along the crack. When you're trying to smear on wet, slippery rock, finding the right sized nut takes too long, its easier to slam a purple cam in and keep going. Have fun and wear comfortable shoes. We got to the ledge on U-slot, but I'd try Entrance crack if I did it again.
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foxtrotuniform
Jan 5, 2006, 8:28 PM
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In reply to: Leave anything bigger than #2 BD. I took a #3 and made myself use, needlessly, on the last pitch to justify it. I took doubles of .5, .75, 1 and 2 BD Camalots, and few smaller tcu's. I never once placed a nut. I did it the day after it rained a lot, so there were several wet spots right along the crack. When you're trying to smear on wet, slippery rock, finding the right sized nut takes too long, its easier to slam a purple cam in and keep going. Have fun and wear comfortable shoes. We got to the ledge on U-slot, but I'd try Entrance crack if I did it again.
Methinks there were lots of good and easy nut placements on the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Crack was wet, but I didn't have any problems. Nuttin' beats nutting!
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jaflorence
Jan 6, 2006, 1:54 AM
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I don't have much advice to contribute, but I'm at school at App and want to get out to Stone mountain this semester, the sooner the better. My roommate and I are going to try to hit it up the first weekend of good weather, and we have between us a rack and a half, but are always welcome to more people climbing with us. Seeing as how you're from Boone, there's about a 50/50 chance you're an App student - is this the case?
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mr8615
Jan 6, 2006, 2:47 AM
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Uslot is awesome if you're cool on slab, if you need features, take entrance crack. Take an ultralight rack, depending on how confident you are, you don't need any pro at all on the arch itself, only the approach pitch to the tree ledge. On the arch, I sling a tree on the first pitch, sling two trees on the second, and then clip the lone bolt on the third. For uslot, I place a .5 and a 1 camalot in the crack, then get a yellow tcu under the overhang crux, that's all. Because you've never been there, I'd say take doubles of cams from .5 to 1, a 2 and a 3, and a set of tcus. That should keep you solid on the shaky slabs. Here's me the first time I ventured up the great arch...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...to_show.php?id=51525
Enjoy! It's a classic.
Mark
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saxfiend
Jan 6, 2006, 4:09 AM
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In reply to: Best Way to Stone --> basically mapquest it....421S to 18N. Right on Mountain View Rd. and Left on Traphill Rd....after that you'll see signs.
JL
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triceisright
Jan 6, 2006, 3:31 PM
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In reply to: ...I wonder if Bugaboo Hideaway is still out there?
I didn't think anyone besides locals knew about that place. It was so infamous during my high school days. Never had the balls to make it out there though.....or at least not a big enough knife... :lol:
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timm
Jan 6, 2006, 3:40 PM
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In reply to: Uslot is awesome if you're cool on slab, if you need features, take entrance crack. Take an ultralight rack, depending on how confident you are, you don't need any pro at all on the arch itself, only the approach pitch to the tree ledge. On the arch, I sling a tree on the first pitch, sling two trees on the second, and then clip the lone bolt on the third. For uslot, I place a .5 and a 1 camalot in the crack, then get a yellow tcu under the overhang crux, that's all. Because you've never been there, I'd say take doubles of cams from .5 to 1, a 2 and a 3, and a set of tcus. That should keep you solid on the shaky slabs. Here's me the first time I ventured up the great arch... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...to_show.php?id=51525 Enjoy! It's a classic. Mark
This post and photo warms my heart... I learned to climb at Stone in 1985 and the Great Arch was my first lead using only hexes and stoppers (after groveling up the Entrance Crack w/ no pro). The last time I was at Stone was 1987 and have been wanting to go back for years.
From what I've been able to determine most (all?) of the old bolts have been replaced... and to think I use to feel a wave of relief after reaching and clipping them.
So what is Strawberry Preserves rated these days ?? (is that the one left of Pandora's Box with the same start?)
Cheers,
Tim
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j_ung
Jan 6, 2006, 3:41 PM
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Standard rack for Entrance Crack = one #3 Camalot. :lol: That's the most balls-out 5.4 I've ever done. Might as well just solo it.
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hawesro
Jan 11, 2006, 3:40 PM
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I agree that entrance crack feels ridiculously hard for a 5.4. Not to mention the fact that the crack is a foot and a half wide and 10 feet deep. Don't do it unless you are a friction and off-width fanatic. I would recommend Dirty Crack (5.8) to the right of entrance crack. I find that this route has the best pro of any of the routes that access the tree ledge. Not to mention a nice tree to sling before you reach the crux. I am surprised that noone has mentioned this route on the message string yet.
As far as the Arch is concerned, I would recommend taking as many #2 camalots as possible for the first pitch, a few small to mid sized cams for the second pitch, and a few small cams for the third. Keep in mind that the most strenuous part of the climb is placing gear. The faster you move, the easier it is.
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nowinowski
Jan 11, 2006, 3:52 PM
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what is wrong with you people the -- entrance crack is the entrance exam -- and it is not a tough one 4th class last tie I checked. :wink:
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hawesro
Jan 11, 2006, 5:18 PM
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So you think that entrance crack compares to other NC 5.4s. ie. Jim Dandy, The Prow, two-pitch. No way. All that I was saying is that I would rather lead the better protected 5.8 than a slabby, offwidth run-out sandbag.
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jetcare
Jan 11, 2006, 6:52 PM
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We climbed at Stone on Saturday. It was my first lead. Pitch 2 of The Great Arch. We used Entrance Crack (5.4) to gain access to the tree line. The last 30 feet was scary without protection. A Big-bro #4 would have been nice. The crack where pro would have been placed was 7 to 8 inches wide. One of our guys placed his entire body inside the crack closer to the top and he was standing up. We chickened out the last 10 feet and had someone throw down a Top Rope. Folks that are comfortable on slab would probably go for it.
Dirty Crack (5.8) just to the right of Entrance Crack is the place we will climb next time to access the tree line. Lots of great places for protection. Looks like fun.
On the three pitches of The Great Arch we placed a total of 19 pieces of protection and slung a few trees. It was great practice and we got to use all our new Christmas toys. It was physically harder to place all that gear than to run it out but safe is good, especially for us new TRAD folks. Now I can say I have lead Trad. I'm ready to go again.
It was a fun day. :)
We went up I77, then Highway 21 near Elkin and followed the signs. No problem.
Matt
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hawesro
Jan 11, 2006, 9:40 PM
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Were you by any chance the person that returned my rope to the park ranger that I had to leave hanging from the last belay station on the Great Arch. If so, You are the man!
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jetcare
Jan 11, 2006, 10:05 PM
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Wow,
Small world. Glad to get the rope back to you.
Matt
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cjstudent
Jan 11, 2006, 10:40 PM
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In reply to: Were you by any chance the person that returned my rope to the park ranger that I had to leave hanging from the last belay station on the Great Arch. If so, You are the man!
I'm confused?
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wjca
Jan 11, 2006, 10:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Were you by any chance the person that returned my rope to the park ranger that I had to leave hanging from the last belay station on the Great Arch. If so, You are the man! I'm confused?
I'm glad I'm not the only one. Could you clarify "hanging", cause we southerners are trying desperately to break free from old stereotypes. Please tell me the ranger wasn't a black dude.
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cjstudent
Jan 11, 2006, 10:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Were you by any chance the person that returned my rope to the park ranger that I had to leave hanging from the last belay station on the Great Arch. If so, You are the man! I'm confused? I'm glad I'm not the only one. Could you clarify "hanging", cause we southerners are trying desperately to break free from old stereotypes. Please tell me the ranger wasn't a black dude.
lol....no i meant, why did he have to leave his rope hanging?
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pacific_mtn
Jan 11, 2006, 11:35 PM
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I bit of a hijack, but I was wondering if anyone knows the name/grade of the bolted slab route that is about 15' to the left of entrance crack?
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