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pranacrazy
Jan 10, 2006, 1:40 AM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2005
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im wearing out my shoes in the toe nad ive only ad them for a few months maybe its my foot work? maybe not? i am a little rough climbing sometimes when i get tired.. any good tips with some good foot work?
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hosh
Jan 10, 2006, 1:49 AM
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Down climb a lot. It'll help your foot work. Also, make deliberate movements. Move slow and with percision.
hosh.
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hosgh
Jan 10, 2006, 2:26 AM
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I had a problem for a while with dragging my right toe, and actually wore a nice hole in my shoe. I ended up using some shoe goo to protect the hole, and focused more on precision and deliberate movements. The shoe goo was also really nice for gauging how much i was dragging my toe, and when it stopped wearing off, i stopped putting it on, problem solved :D
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luke_flowers
Jan 10, 2006, 2:40 AM
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There are a number of things that can help improve precision in footwork, which will definitely help lengthen the life of your shoes. The first is to try and step onto holds with the inside tip of your big toe (no matter how big the hold is) this allows you to pivot around the tip of your shoe without dragging or repositioning. Another is to physically watch where you place your foot when you are placing it, at the same time be using great big jug holds for your hands, and tiny chips for your feet...this will force you to become more accurate with the placement of your feet which will pop off if you don't hit the hold the first time. Another exercise you can try is to do smooth weight transitions from one foot to the other. This involves keeping most or all of your weight on one foot, placing the other, and then gradually transitioning weight over the other foot. The smooth transfer allows more control of where your foot goes before you commit to sticking the hold, which can burn rubber if you miss. Also try consciously keeping your feet away from the wall if you have a tendency to drag...this becomes much easier the steeper the wall.
hope some of this was of use
Happy climbing
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theirishman
Jan 15, 2006, 8:11 AM
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Registered: Aug 17, 2005
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ok before putting a foot on a placement, count to five, it well help with your balance and awarenest, also do that with your hands, and when you put ur feet on something do it slow unless you have to,
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overlord
Jan 15, 2006, 8:47 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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In reply to: ok before putting a foot on a placement, count to five, it well help with your balance and awarenest, also do that with your hands, and when you put ur feet on something do it slow unless you have to,
actually i would adcive agains doing this. the thing with hands os called french something training and is used to train lockoff strength.
as youre still just learning, such training is not for you because while it does improve some aspects of your climbing, it develops a really static climbing style. just take care how you place your feet.
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tyson16v
Jan 16, 2006, 6:17 AM
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Registered: Jan 4, 2005
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the best and easiest drill that i have found is "quiet feet".
when you are warming up, climbing hard, doing routes, traversing, etc. make your feet silent.
if you hear your feet, come off the wall and start the climb, boulder problem, traverse, over. do this with a partner if you want and everytime they hear your feet they can tell you to start over, or throw rocks at you, or pull your chalkbag till you fall and break your ankle, whatever.
it is fun. i use it with alot of my kids and as well adults that i work with.
there are alot of drills that i have used, but this seems to be the most effective. because to achieve quiet feet, you must do all of the above drills in the other posts. you must look at your feet, you must trust your feet, you must place your feet properly and precisely.
have fun.
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areuinclimber
Jan 16, 2006, 7:13 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2004
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quit dragging your toes up the wall from hold to hold.
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anykineclimb
Jan 16, 2006, 7:23 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
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a lot of people forget this because your feet are all the way at the end of your legs, but you need to LOOK at your feet when placing them!
Don't blindly stab at footholds. would you do the same with your hands?? Hell no! so why with your feet?
Something to try is to place your foot on a hold. Once there, DO NOT move it! A lot of beginners will shift around a lot when on a hold.
Doing so will make you think ahead a bit.
Likes its been said tons before, climbing is like chess; you need to think a few moves in advance. think about how you'll be standing on that hold AND where you'll be going from it.
It'll save you energy and wear on your shoes.
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