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declinebass
Jan 15, 2006, 4:54 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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ive been thinkin about gettin into aid and i wondered what the basic aid rack would need to have in it? what pieces should i double up on? active and passive. how many aiders? assenders? pins? hooks...anything...what should i get to start out with?
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cardiffclimber
Jan 15, 2006, 5:06 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2005
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Start with reading "Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills".
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euroford
Jan 15, 2006, 9:33 PM
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i was in quite your same position a couple of years ago, and only recently have i begun to feel that my 'starter' aid rack is nearly complete. thats pretty sad as its a serious mountain of gear. the best way to go about this is to already have a substantial free rack and combine it with your partners susbstantial free rack.
i've not yet done a wall, but this rack has served me well for aiding numerous steep free cracks and smaller aid routes while training for a wall. this rack gets paired down as necessary depending on beta.
2 x sets of bd camalot's .75-3.5 (pre C4 camalots can be scored at pretty good prices on ebay)
1 x set of dmm 4cu's 1-4
1 x set of cch alien's
1 x set of wc zero's
2 x sets of bd stoppers 1-12
1 x set of bd micro stoppers
1.5 x sets of hb offsets
1 ea. bd hooks
1 ea. leaper cam hooks
36 x 8" quickdraws w/ lite wiregates
8 x 24" trippled runners w/ lite wiregates
2 x 48" runners w/ lite wiregates
1 x lite wiregate per cam
1 x oval per set of stoppers
+ harness, chest harness, aiders, daisy's, ascenders, grigri, yadiyadiyadi
i think its very important that you get the tiny nuts and hooks for practicing on. you really don't know if your cutout for the aid stuff until you've played around with that stuff.
like giza said, get those books and a whole shitload of money.
okay, well the bears and comming on the field, so i'm off to the couch.
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climbingnurse
Jan 15, 2006, 10:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2003
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Well, I got up WFLT with a hell of a lot less stuff than what EuroFord just listed above. My rack basically consists of doubles of every cam from 1/4" to 3". I used that plus one or two cams off my partner's rack for the trip. I had a set of BD stoppers (including micro stoppers) and about a set and a half of HB offsets too. For hooks I had a BD talon, BD tri-hook-thingy, and 2 cam hooks.
You'll definitely need two daisies for yourself and one for the pig. You can get by with two aiders, but a lot of newbs feel more comfortable with 4. A nice chest harness is nice to keep everything organized. Even better is one that is weight bearing for rapping with the pig. I got a pair of adjustable daisies and absolutely love them.
The one thing you definitely won't have enough of is lockers and free biners. No matter what you will wish you had more.
You should definitely get a hold of MFOTH and the Big Walls book. But other than that, I feel like if you are an experienced trad leader, not that much practice is necessary. The 3rd and 4th pitches of aid I led were the Lost Arrow Spire Tip. The 5th, 6th, and... were on WFLT. (The two climbs were 2 years apart.)
Of course that means learning the hard way with a lot on the line. I also took my first aid fall suspended over 1,000 or so feet of air on WFLT. I took about a 20 footer and then watched the piece I dropped take a lloonngg time to hit ground.
For starters I'd buy:
-4 aiders
-3 daisies
-2 jugs
-1 grigri or similiar device
-1 chest harness
-1 big, beefy harness
-1 or 2 pairs of cheap work gloves from the hardware store
-A helmet if you don't already have one
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livingtheedge
Jan 15, 2006, 11:10 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 239
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Depends
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flamer
Jan 16, 2006, 3:59 AM
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In reply to: For hooks I had a BD talon, BD tri-hook-thingy
The Talon IS the tri-hook-thingy
josh
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iamcolinslack
Jan 16, 2006, 4:09 AM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2005
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In reply to: Start with reading "Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills".
I second, third, and fourth this.
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areuinclimber
Jan 16, 2006, 4:40 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Start with reading "Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills". I second, third, and fourth this.
i dont, outdated info on wall climbing. jared ogdens book is killer.
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far_east_climber
Jan 16, 2006, 3:25 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2003
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My main advice is don't consider buying pins of any sort yet as it could encourage you to nail around aimlessly in a blinding flurry of chromoly love.
Also, I feel it best to start off aiding with 2 or 3 aiders - starting with 4 and then going to 2 or 3 may be an arse.
Practicing hooking on a sport route is good practice. Best to go on a line with big edges so you don't go blowing out precious small hand/foot holds for free climbing. Bolt laddering sport pitches is also good practice getting your movement down. Going to an indoor gym is a sure place to find bolts space 3ft apart.
I wouldn't worry about hauling/systems at the moment. It's probably best just to focus on your aid movement.
My main advice is try any and every type of movement system you can get your hands on, i.e. fifis, adjustables daisies(different companies), adjustable fifis, traditional daisies, different ladders.
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areuinclimber
Jan 16, 2006, 5:41 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: May 29, 2004
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ladders are the shit. i am not a fan of adjustable daisies becuase im way to hard on my stuff and they dont last more than one wall.
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paganmonkeyboy
Jan 16, 2006, 6:09 PM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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In reply to: ...a blinding flurry of chromoly love...
dude - can i borrow that for a song title ?
(another vote for ladders, too...)
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climbingnurse
Jan 16, 2006, 6:38 PM
Post #14 of 16
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Registered: Oct 30, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: For hooks I had a BD talon, BD tri-hook-thingy The Talon IS the tri-hook-thingy josh
Sorry, just to clarify, I have/had the talon and the grappling hook... and a couple of cam hooks.
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far_east_climber
Jan 17, 2006, 1:35 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: ...a blinding flurry of chromoly love... dude - can i borrow that for a song title ? (another vote for ladders, too...)
Haha, sure, go ahead!
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csgambill
Jan 17, 2006, 3:04 AM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 607
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Is it just me or does the phrase "Basic aid rack" strike anyone else as amusing?
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