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nieder


Jan 16, 2006, 10:54 AM
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If you had one day to climb in Phoenix...
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I am going to be in Phoenix for one day (Feb 5), one day only, and would like to find out some recommendations for climbing. I want the "must climb", classic areas, not the overcrowded greasy piece of crap routes that are easy to get to.

Moderate Sport (5.8-5.11) or easy trad (5.5-5.9)

Even if it was a couple of classic routes that I could check out, that would make me extremely glad.

So, any ideas?


Partner bill


Jan 16, 2006, 12:25 PM
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For an easy trad route, check out Hanging Gardens a two pitch 5.5 that is located at Gardners Wall in the McDowell Mountains.


qulith


Jan 16, 2006, 12:56 PM
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For an easy trad route, check out Hanging Gardens a two pitch 5.5 that is located at Gardners Wall in the McDowell Mountains.

and you will have time to run up Renaissance Direct, which is right next to Hanging Gardens (great 2 pitch 5.7).

I would recommend getting good approach beta to limit the amount of bush whacking needed to get to the base.


textbookonewk


Jan 16, 2006, 1:14 PM
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For an easy trad route, check out Hanging Gardens a two pitch 5.5 that is located at Gardners Wall in the McDowell Mountains.

and you will have time to run up Renaissance Direct, which is right next to Hanging Gardens (great 2 pitch 5.7).

I would recommend getting good approach beta to limit the amount of bush whacking needed to get to the base.

I would have to agree, those are probably the best easy trad climbs in the immediate vicinity. Stop by REI and pick up Marty Karabin's guide for $2.00 its several years old, but the beta is still pretty good.


elvislegs


Jan 16, 2006, 1:45 PM
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if i had one day to climb in phoenix, i'd go to flagstaff.


phugganut


Jan 16, 2006, 2:01 PM
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if i had one day to climb in phoenix, i'd go to flagstaff.

In early February? It might be a bit cold then.

However, if you have a long day, then head towards Flagstaff, but stop at Sedona instead and do a red-rock tower. Great MP trad in a a spectacular setting. If you were here the 3rd or 4th instead of the 5th I could probably show you around. Is your schedule flexible?

You could also do The Hand or Bark's Canyon Wall, both of which are in The Superstitions near Apache Junction.

If you really must spurt climb then Queen Creek (near Superior) or Zonerland (in the Superstitions) are probably your best bet, unless you want to drive out to The Homestead.

All of these areas are (or at least should be) in the Rc.com routes database. If you have any other questions feel free to ask here or drop me a PM.

BTW, although there is great climbing all around Phoenix, the climbing that is actually IN Phoenix isn't all that wonderful. If you're going to stay inside the metro area and don't have a long day then as others said the McDowell's are probably your best bet.


elvislegs


Jan 16, 2006, 2:48 PM
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if i had one day to climb in phoenix, i'd go to flagstaff.

In early February? It might be a bit cold then.

it doesn't get cold in arizona.


epic_ed


Jan 16, 2006, 3:23 PM
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Depends on if you prefer sport or trad. Sport -- head out to Queen Creek. Hop on "Babysitters Taste Better", a classic for more reasons than just the twisted name. That route is surrounded by tons of other very climbable stuff in the range you're looking for.

If it's a multi-pitch trad experience you're looking for, and you're up for a very long day, and you're in good shape -- head up to Granite Mountain in Prescott. Take your pick of several 5.5 - 5.7 3-5 pitch routes in the Swamp Slab area.

If you're not feeling that ambitious, then I'll second Bill's recommendation of Hanging Gardens and other routes on Gardner's Wall. It's "only" 5.5, but some of the most fun climbing I've done in the PHX area.

Ed


sidepull


Jan 16, 2006, 4:33 PM
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or Zonerland (in the Superstitions)

Never heard of this, could you provide directions?


dschultz


Jan 16, 2006, 5:13 PM
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For the trad the McDowell's recommendations would be o.k. For a nice day of sport (you stated moderate 5.8 - 5.11) I would go to The Pond at Queen Creek. Lots of very good climbs in the same vicinity with a beautiful view of Superior. The Hand in the Supes (Superstitions) is a classic with also a great view of the valley. When your day is about done you could scamper up the Monk at Camelback to see the sunset. Enjoy the Valleyof the Sun....

dschultz


phugganut


Jan 16, 2006, 7:03 PM
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it doesn't get cold in arizona.

That's funny. I wonder how that ski resort in Flagstaff gets by if it never gets cold.




In reply to:
In reply to:
or Zonerland (in the Superstitions)

Never heard of this, could you provide directions?

I'll PM you with some info later. Gotta go now.


mjr


Jan 16, 2006, 7:27 PM
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If it's a multi-pitch trad experience you're looking for, and you're up for a very long day, and you're in good shape -- head up to Granite Mountain in Prescott. Take your pick of several 5.5 - 5.7 3-5 pitch routes in the Swamp Slab area.
Ed
I though Granite Mtn was generally closed for raptors about then:
http://www.accessfund.org/regions/res/AZ

I'm far from a local, but I liked the McDowell's the couple times I was out there...

Mike


climbsomething


Jan 16, 2006, 7:31 PM
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it doesn't get cold in arizona.

That's funny. I wonder how that ski resort in Flagstaff gets by if it never gets cold.
Give em a call and ask them about their revenues this season... I'll wait ;) *whistles*


arsenalcrater


Jan 16, 2006, 8:15 PM
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double post (sort of.....drink a beer....like a Steelhead Pale Ale :)


arsenalcrater


Jan 16, 2006, 8:24 PM
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That's funny. I wonder how that ski resort in Flagstaff gets by if it never gets cold.


In reply to:
Give em a call and ask them about their revenues this season... I'll wait *whistles*

No kidden....Got to visit Flag for the weekend and the mountain is scary bare. I lived in Flag from 97' until just a few months ago. It was only in 2001/2002 that Snowbowl only opened it's slopes for four days.....this season is looking much more dry. I did not see any snow on the peaks from Flag. (There were a few white speck noticed on the peaks while approaching Garland Prairie). Quite the contrast from last winter. For a positive note, the Elysian Buttress (my favorite multi-pitch in the area) made for a perfect Friday. If you are in PHX, and the weather is what it has been, then go up to Flag and climb the Elysian Buttress....III 5.7+...(or go do a desert tower....or granite mountain....or queen creek....the mcdowells....paradise forks...mt. lemmon...granite dells...pinnacle peak...etc...)


phugganut


Jan 16, 2006, 10:19 PM
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it doesn't get cold in arizona.

That's funny. I wonder how that ski resort in Flagstaff gets by if it never gets cold.
Give em a call and ask them about their revenues this season... I'll wait ;) *whistles*

Temp today in Flagstaff: Hi 36F (2C) Low 12F (-11C) (from CNN.com/weather)

Last weekend in Sedona it was 70 & sunny (I know I was climbing there) and it's been in the 60's & 70's in Phoenix & Apache Junction.


So, how often do you prefer driving 2 hours to climb in mid 30 degree temps when it's 60 - 70 degrees in Sedona and Phoenix. Or better yet, how often do you recommend to visiting climbers that they climb in the 30's when it's much nicer nearby? I'll wait. *whistles*

Man I never thought I'd get disagreements from so many people for saying it's cold in Flagstaff in early February.

To the OP: Climb in Flag if you want, but it should but much nicer in Sedona/Phoenix/AJ. Besides, IMHO for a 1 day tour The Mace and Bark's Canyon Wall beat Elysian Buttress easily. Just my 2 cents, YMMV.


climbsomething


Jan 16, 2006, 10:27 PM
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Man I never thought I'd get disagreements from so many people for saying it's cold in Flagstaff in early February.
You can argue if you want to. I'm usually pretty game.

All season, it has in fact been very unseasonably warm in Flag and everywhere else in Arizona, and there is STILL no snow to speak of. And while generally, I personally would not encourage a visitor to go to Flag this time of year, keep in mind that elvislegs is from Idaho, so perhaps what we consider cold doesn't faze him. If the temps return to the freakiness that they've been this winter, then I *would* say, hey, go to Flag, since the climbing there is far superior to about everything else in the state. (and FWIW, I lump Sedona in with Flagstaff)


locker


Jan 16, 2006, 10:47 PM
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epic ed is correct! Head out to Oak Flats/Queen Creek east of Superior... Tons of fun routes!!! Used to be my main Crag before heading out here. Love the place and so will you. On the way out stop off right when you get to Superior to the Restaraunt where they have the "Worlds Smallest Museum" and have a hardy breakfast... love that little dive!!!...


phugganut


Jan 16, 2006, 11:14 PM
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Man I never thought I'd get disagreements from so many people for saying it's cold in Flagstaff in early February.
You can argue if you want to. I'm usually pretty game.

All season, it has in fact been very unseasonably warm in Flag and everywhere else in Arizona, and there is STILL no snow to speak of. And while generally, I personally would not encourage a visitor to go to Flag this time of year, keep in mind that elvislegs is from Idaho, so perhaps what we consider cold doesn't faze him. If the temps return to the freakiness that they've been this winter, then I *would* say, hey, go to Flag, since the climbing there is far superior to about everything else in the state. (and FWIW, I lump Sedona in with Flagstaff)

1) Well Elvislegs may be from Ida-I'm so hard that I'm comfy even when it's freezing out-ho but the OP is from St. George, UT.

2) Sedona is part of Flagstaff? I never considered it so, but it's not too far away so I guess I can buy that. Both the setting and the climbing are worlds apart from anything in Flag though.

3) Climbing in Flag is "far superior" to everything else in the state? maybe for bouldering, but the OP (why am I always thinking about that guy?) requested info on sport and trad climbing. With all due respect to The Forks, IMHO there is much better sport and trad elsewhere in the state. Cochise Stronghold, Mt. Lemmon, The Homestead, Sedona, Isolation Canyon, and Granite Mountain all come to mind. However, that is a subjective thing and if you like the sport & trad around Flag better then that's cool with me :)


One last comment , and it's another subjective thing. When I'm showing out-of-towners around I try to find the most spectacular places I can find. You know, something they might not soon forget. I try to take them to Places like Cochise Stronghold for The Wasteland or The Sheepshead. I mean, a place like Sedona is not only incredibly beautiful, but also has some memorable moves like the jump-across on The Mace & Oak Creek Spire or the cool offwidth on Earth Angel. Granite Mtn has the giant roof of Coatimundi/Candyland. It's just a difference of opinion. I'm sure you give a killer tour of Flag.


BTW: It was 36 degrees in Flag today.


nieder


Jan 17, 2006, 12:36 PM
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Thanks for the great info - I dont think I will be able to be there any other day than the 5th, but if I can I will let you know! Thanks though...I will check out your recommendations


lou


Jan 18, 2006, 10:30 AM
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Hey.....hmmmm one day...Phoenix.... do not head up to Flag.( 5 hour round trip drive)...Granite Mt. ( Probally windy,, youll get lost on the trail in..scratched up with Manzanita,,scrub oak...) or Sedona ( the rock will kill you and you must love off width , and chimeny).... Go to THE POND..a destination winter sport area....great climbing....on 60 to 80 foot wall...faces the sun...well bolted...from 5.6 to insane....a short approach, past a pond or two..and if your lucky a waterfall....an hour or so east of Phoenix,,, just alot of fun. DO IT ...... lou :D


sonso45


Jan 21, 2006, 4:32 PM
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You want moderate routes and not too easy to get to for one day's climbing in Phoenix? Phugganut's recommendations are right on. Lou gave you an easy to get to spot and classic sport routes. I am off 2/5 and would be delighted to take you to isolation canyon. I would love to visit St. George and get a tour. Let me know. It's a 1.5 hr drive to the area from Phoenix. PM me with details. Manny


rock_rookie


Jan 21, 2006, 5:17 PM
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On the way out to Queen Creek, stop at the ATLANTIS area - past Superior, first pullout on your right, just after the tunnel. You can rappel into the canyon, or walk down a steep scree trail into it. There is a whole whack of excellent, moderate sport climbs, and if there is no water running you will likely be able to spend an entire day there and have quite the enjoyable time. This is probably one of the closest places, and who can complain about a 3 minute approach from the car!

Someone else suggested the Pond area - just slightly further down the highway. I agree; this is also an awesome place, with great views from way up high if you climb at the Upper Pond area.

The Lost Wall and The Throne, in the Upper Devil's Canyon area right at Queen Creek, have some cool sport climbs in the range you've mentioned.

For trad / mixed, I'd say the McDowell Mountains are the best bet. Gardener's Wall and Tom's Thumb are mega fun!!

Have a great time! I'm so envious!


gecko4


Jan 21, 2006, 7:36 PM
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Atlantis is great in warmer weather. Lately it has been a bit cooler (Phx in the 60's) and Atlantis is a bit higher (about 2500' higher) and it is shady in the winter, thus colder especially with a breeze/wind.

Anyway, depending on the weather that day, either the Pond or Atlantis would be an easy sport climbing destination for a taste of Queen Creek. The Pond has the most variety and most routes with the quickest approaches. About 1 1/4 hours by car from downtown Phoenix/airport in good traffic. (US 60 east out of town has been choked down on weekends for some construction lately, do a google on highway construction in Phoenix, try ADOT website) Approach to both is about 10 minutes hike.

The Pond would do well on either a cool day or a sunny day, Atlantis on a really warm, sunny, calm day.

Routes at Atlantis tend to be longer at up to 85', with Neptune being two pitches. Just after the tunnel, stop at the parking area. Some people rappel in on this route but it is probably easiest to hike down to the west of the blob of rock at the parking area.

The Pond is just up the road from here some fractions of a mile. Pull off and keep your valuables with you. Hike up along the highway and either go across at the bridge or go under the bridge. (Dr. Topo.com has some good descriptions of routes)

Do the routes down low and up to the west (Youth is Beauty, 10b, The Crosses are Free on Highway 60, 10c, Return from the Ultimate . . . 12a) or scramble up to the right of the lowest pond and do the hard stuff at the main Pond area (Desert Devil, 13a, etc.) or head up the hill to the SW and go to the Upper Pond.

Routes start at 5.5 or so (Pocket Warmer, Fat Boy Goes to Queen Creek) and go up to about 12b (Just Can't . . , etc.). Soft Parade (11a/b) is a very good climb on solid rock on the big Bartuni Wall, furthest right. Other routes on Bartuni are a bit flaky, (ie., loose?) but go at 11b to 12a/b and are exciting. Pocket Puzzle (10a) is the area classic pocket pull/warmup on the wall just to the east of the big Bartuni wall. Pocket Party 10b, Space Hog (10c/d), Pocket Pow-Wow (10c), Main Squeeze (11a) all on this east wall have their own distinctive flavor and are worthwhile, generally speaking.

Latest route count at the Pond is in the 60's. The view is nice and if there is a crowd they are usually pretty friendly.

Lots to do. Leave town at 8:30, there by just after or near 10, out at 3 or 4 and back to town between 5 and 6, tips burning. Chicken wings, candy bars, and other junk food at store across from Circle K in Superior.

Hope you have a great trip.

Fred


lou


Jan 21, 2006, 8:08 PM
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Hey man.....sonso45 is right on....I totally spaced out isolation canyon!! Take him up on it.....Outrageous rock....great sport and trad...the best of both worlds...cool scenery....sonso is the guide for the area for sure....check out the photos for the area, and your mouth will water!!
lou

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