|
artmusicsouth
Jan 18, 2006, 1:49 AM
Post #1 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2005
Posts: 78
|
Hey all,
I just got the new Select Climbs of Squamish in and it had Univeristy Wall rated at 12a but does not offer the aid rating. Does anyone have any beta on aiding it? I'll be out there in August and it was on my list of aid routes to do. What other aid routes are worth doing, too?
|
|
|
|
|
jred
Jan 18, 2006, 2:09 AM
Post #2 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2003
Posts: 750
|
There is no aid rating because it is a popular free climb, I think it is C2 though . Canabis wall, Uncle Bens, Negro Lesbians, Humpty Dumpty
|
|
|
|
|
tattooed_climber
Jan 18, 2006, 3:22 AM
Post #3 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
|
squamish select????aid??bahahhaha....get the kevin mcleans guide if ya want aid....
|
|
|
|
|
erockrings
Jan 18, 2006, 4:05 AM
Post #4 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 23
|
I've done most of it (with exception of the last two pitches) on aid. Kevin mclane's guide gives it a rating of C2.
i found that the difficuly in this climb isn't so much tricky and scary place ments but the sheer awkwardness of stepping up in your aiders and keeping organized in the tight corner systems. there is alot of this, which i think adds to the reason of the U wall being such a classic free climb but tiring to aid.
Well worth it though.
|
|
|
|
|
estwing
Jan 18, 2006, 4:49 AM
Post #5 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 344
|
hi there,
A friend and I aided the route this past summer. It is about right at C2, maybe a bit less. The fixed gear is all quite good, but you will need a nut tool to excavate placements after the "shadow" pitches. The route does not get that much traffic and as such is quite dirty. I think that we were likely the first party to top out the route, as there were fresh booty bits up to about pitch 6, then lots of dirty cracks.
Good luck, bring a two hooks for the last pitch.
|
|
|
|
|
phoenix
Jan 18, 2006, 6:04 AM
Post #6 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2003
Posts: 23
|
In reply to: There is no aid rating because it is a popular free climb, I think it is C2 though . Canabis wall, Uncle Bens, Negro Lesbians, Humpty Dumpty
Yeah, I don't think it is that popular because it is freaking hard and intimidating. It is classic nonetheless though.
Ben
|
|
|
|
|
slavetogravity
Jan 18, 2006, 6:35 AM
Post #7 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
|
In reply to: Hey all, I just got the new Select Climbs of Squamish in and it had Univeristy Wall rated at 12a but does not offer the aid rating.
The Aid rating is C2.
I've done the University route and I can't, for the life of me, conceive as to how that thing is ever free climbed.
I've climbed several 5.11c and have tried a few 5.12a routes. In the case of the 5.12 routes I'm confident that I could get up them with a little more strength. I can not though imagine EVER in my wildest dreams EVER free climbing the University wall. If that thing is 5.12a then I'm a monkeys uncle! Tommy Caldwell recently freed thought a grade of 5.13b was accurate.
|
|
|
|
|
erockrings
Jan 18, 2006, 7:10 AM
Post #8 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 23
|
In reply to: If that thing is 5.12a then I'm a monkeys uncle! Tommy Caldwell recently freed thought a grade of 5.13b was accurate.
Caldwell did the U wall via the shadow. A variation of two pitches gives a more direct line. The crux being the overhanging dihedral where four point smears are your only option. peter croft called this "12d" (after an onsight i think). or what caldwell calls 5.13.
the original free climb goes left of both shadow pitches making the climb more do-able for strong mortals.
Still, those 5.12a pitches...LONG and HARD looking.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
artmusicsouth
Jan 18, 2006, 1:30 PM
Post #10 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2005
Posts: 78
|
You guys are great. Thanks for all the great info. How long does it take to aid the wall? Should you be prepared to bivy and if so is there a good place to bivy? Is it all primarily C2 or are there more reasonable free climbing sections (@ 5.10) for us mere mortals?
|
|
|
|
|
yetanotherdave
Jan 18, 2006, 4:05 PM
Post #11 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 243
|
In reply to: How long does it take to aid the wall?
In reply to: Should you be prepared to bivy and if so is there a good place to bivy?
I'm told you can bivy by the tree, but it'd be damn tight for two. There are better ledges near the top, I think.
In reply to: Is it all primarily C2 or are there more reasonable free climbing sections (@ 5.10) for us mere mortals?
The climbing eases higher up (lotsa mid 10) but the route gets dirtier, so be careful. The aiding is mostly C1. The gear is all pretty good, but it can be a bit awkward aiding in some spots.
It's worth the approach just to do the first few pitches - the shadow is spectacular!
Note that if you're rapping be careful heading down to the station at the tree, it's easy to get ropes stuck in the crack above if you're not careful.
If you're looking for a partner while you're out here fire me a PM.
|
|
|
|
|
artmusicsouth
Jan 18, 2006, 4:30 PM
Post #12 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2005
Posts: 78
|
Thanks for the info Dave ( I assume.) We may look you up when we get up ther.e Right now there is about 5 - 6 of us going up to do a bit of everything.
|
|
|
|
|
islandclimber
Jan 18, 2006, 5:00 PM
Post #13 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 94
|
I reccomend fixing pitches rather then bivying. The descent is along a very narrow part of Bellygood and carrying a whole bunch of stuff, would make it difficult. Just fix the first 4-5 pitches on day one. Pull your ropes and finish the lcimb on day 2
|
|
|
|
|
erockrings
Jan 18, 2006, 5:00 PM
Post #14 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 23
|
the end of the fifth pitch provides a ledge. if i can remember correctly it would be good for about 2 people. but then your two pitches from the top anyways, and those pitches go at 10d and 11c. A little easier than the rest of the route.
eric
|
|
|
|
|
changlama
Jul 19, 2006, 6:05 PM
Post #15 of 15
(2296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2004
Posts: 22
|
There'a a new guide that just came out called "Squamish Big Walls" by Matt Maddaloni, it contains good route info on all the aid routes. You can pick up a copy from George at Climb On in Squamish.
You might also be interested in the film, "UNIVERSITY WALL", a 10-minute short about the first ascent playing at the Squamish Mountain Film Festival August 4th.
Peter Croft will be there that night as well.
Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
|
