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thor4life144


Jan 17, 2006, 10:01 PM
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Good Chimney Climbing?
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Hey there. Like the title says, I'm wondering where some good chimneys are. My friend intraduced me to some small 25-30' ones, and needless to say, I'm hooked. Any rating or location is fine.

Thanks in advance


jsj42


Jan 17, 2006, 10:18 PM
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Honeymoon Chimney 11b, The Priest, Castle Valley, UT
Epinephrine 9, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV
Cooler Than Jesus 10a, Top of the World Overlook, Moab, UT
Agamemnon 5.easy, Arapiles, Australia
King's X 10d, Eldorado Canyon, CO
Southern Arete 10+, Black Canyon NP, CO
El Matador 10d/11a, Devil's Tower, WY
Vision Quest 10+, Indian Creek, UT
Lightning Bolt Cracks 11-, Indian Creek, UT


vegastradguy


Jan 17, 2006, 10:30 PM
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Deep Space, .9, Red Rock
East Buttress of El Cap's first pitch, .9 Yosemite
Royal Arches first pitch, .6 Yosemite
Community Pillar, .9 Red Rock (this actually has more adventuresome chimneys than Epi, but isnt as famous...)

Actually, Red Rock is full of good chimney routes- the sandstone makes for a wide variety of moderate chimneys that are often very protectable and less abusive than many others (Epi is an exception!).


clymber


Jan 18, 2006, 8:53 AM
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good chimney climbs is like saying that you are looking for a honest politician....neither exist

jsj how are you saying that kings x is a chimney....ive done that route a few times and as far as i know theres no chimney anywhere on it


sentinel


Jan 18, 2006, 10:59 AM
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YOSEMITE Valley
DNB (Direct North Butress) = Thirsty Spire Chimneys 5.6 old school
Dromindary = 3rd pitch (Owl Roof Area)
Trundleing Jaun = Elephant Rock 4 pitch - bring tubes
Chincando (sp) = Reeds Pinnacle area (More OW then Chimmney)
Phantom Spire = Next door to Lower Spire.
Goliath = Lost Brother (new obscure route)


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 18, 2006, 11:20 AM
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It's not worth hopping on a plane just for this route....but still, it's a nice picture, enticing for those who do enjoy a good chimney. Easy climbing, but no pro. "Santa's Escape" at Peterskill, NY. Rated 5.7 supposedly, but it is easier than that; pretty sustained the whole way through.

http://img.photobucket.com/...rrrl/chimneyblue.jpg


leinosaur


Jan 18, 2006, 11:39 AM
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My buddy Okieterry's a chimney afficionado, and here's his top-rated photo of Julie swimming one of the 5.9 chimney pitches on Epinephrine in Black Velvet Canyon:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=36099


If it's squeeze chimneys you're into, I hear the Nautilus at Vedauwoo's got some doozies!

roadman33 in the left torpedo tube -
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=64121

and angelaa on stinkzig!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=66352

Kingfisher Caravan at Upper Mount Scott in the Wichitas in Oklahoma has the coolest crux, getting up into the bomb bay! But it's so dark in there, it's not so good for pictures.


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Jan 18, 2006, 11:42 AM
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Lots at Vedauwoo, WY. Here are 3 at the 5.7-8 level.

TM, No Name Chimney, Dire Pitch.

Cheers,

Rob.calm
_______________________________________________________
'Tis better to have trad and failed then not to have trad at all.


thor4life144


Jan 18, 2006, 12:00 PM
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Clymber: The reason I'm looking for good chimneys is because face climbing just doesn't do it for me. I love pressue stuff, and chimneys give me this. And they arn't a very climbed medium.

jsj42: Cool. thanks for all the sites. Looks like I'll be makeing a road trip though UT.

vegastradguy: Cool. I've been planning on making a trip to Red Rocks for spring break,


thedus


Jan 18, 2006, 12:06 PM
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For an old school classic romp, try the Lost Arrow Chimney in Yosemite. There's a trip report somewhere on the web describing the joys of the Harding Hole on that one.

Edit: Found the TR: http://www.supertopo.com/...ic_id=44390#msg44503


tradklime


Jan 18, 2006, 12:08 PM
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Next time you are in the valley, go run up the Steck-Salathe. There is some really pleasant chimney climbing on that one.


flamer


Jan 18, 2006, 7:58 PM
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In reply to:
Next time you are in the valley, go run up the Steck-Salathe. There is some really pleasant chimney climbing on that one.

I was just going to mention this route!!

One of my all time favorites!! There is some awesome chimney climbing on this route!! If you cruise this than the chimney's on Half dome's Reg. Route will be easy.

Check out Grapevine on Sundance buttress at Lumpy ridge....it only has 1 chimney pitch but it's really good...and the rest is sweet too!

There's a really good chimney pitch on the casual route, on the Diamond.

Check out Independance chimney on Independance monument in Colorado national monument.

If you want easy when you're in Red rocks...check out both Tunnel vision and Group Therapy...TV has more chimney's but GT has a really cool chimney roof type thing. If you're feeling good go solo Zoraster out by Atman in Calico basin...It's 5.8- and a perfect knee/back chimney. It's one short pitch (with no real gear to speak of) but it would be tough to fall out of. Black dagger has a really cool tunnel/chimney it's on the Brownstone wall.

josh


scottquig


Jan 18, 2006, 8:40 PM
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Vantage (Frenchmen's Coulee) definitely has some nice chimney climbing, though probably not worth it unless you'll already be in the area.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...tArea.php?AreaID=599


guanoboy


Jan 18, 2006, 10:46 PM
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I think i have to call bullshit on:
lost arrow spire in Yo???
Lightening bolt cracks at indian creek???
DNB???

but, ...
Vedawuu, WY has got to be OW heaven and I suggest
Epinephrine at Red Rocks
Steck Salathe in the valley
Ascended yoga masters in castle valley, Moab

there is also endless FA chimney potential around Moab.

here's to you for loving OW!

p.s. look up ari menitove - the OW master


jsj42


Jan 18, 2006, 11:01 PM
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In reply to:
I think i have to call bullshit on...

Ascended yoga masters in castle valley, Moab

You should know, afterall, you did spend, what, 24 hours on this 5 pitch climb?

I happen to really like the squeeze chimney section of the last pitch of Lightning Bolt Cracks.


sixleggedinsect


Jan 18, 2006, 11:13 PM
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Hey there. Like the title says, I'm wondering where some good chimneys are. My friend intraduced me to some small 25-30' ones, and needless to say, I'm hooked. Any rating or location is fine.

kor ingalls on castleton will keep you entertained.

yes to community pillar, a super fun route where you can choose between runout scary face, or runout wild chimney/tunnel on pretty mcuh every pitch.

psychological crux on north ridge of steeple in the wind rivers. not really a chimney route, though. but counts as the sort of route people who like chimneys like.

royal arches does not count as a chimney climb. just a smidgen at the bottom and its all over. if you want chimney cragging, its all over the place.

lady wilson's cleavage (also RR) was pretty chimney/stem intensive.

the mace (sedona) and 'ancient art' (moab) are two other routes that appeal to the chimney climber in you, without actually being real chimney routes.

if you want routes where the crux, or the memorable section, is chimney related- regular route on reed's pinnacle, tunnel vision and the other route right near it in red rocks that another poster mentioned, beulah's book, amber. all those last ones red rocks climbs.


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Jan 18, 2006, 11:20 PM
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Satans Smokestack at Frog Buttress SE Queensland. A classic four sided chimney. You stay inside the smokestack for around 25 metres and then burst out on top of an airy pillar only to have to step across the top of the void formed by the chimney to gain the exposed arete above. Way too much fun. One of my fav climbs at Frog. The offwidth at the bottom to get to the start of the chimney can be climbed using holds on the outside so it is not necessary to treat it as an offwidth.

Then there is Witches Cauldron at the same cliff, a classic for the novice climber. Who could forget Macraderma a sick and twisted outing if there ever was one.


sixleggedinsect


Jan 18, 2006, 11:23 PM
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In reply to:
It's not worth hopping on a plane just for this route....but still, it's a nice picture, enticing for those who do enjoy a good chimney. Easy climbing, but no pro. "Santa's Escape" at Peterskill, NY. Rated 5.7 supposedly, but it is easier than that; pretty sustained the whole way through.

want better than that? go for a walk in the needles of canyonlands on a rest day from the creek. theres a slot canyon that would be a perfect foot to back chimney for 150' or so, then pop out into the sunlight on top of a flat rock.

wouldnt bother me any if someone put a handful of bolts in that thing..

and another chimney to add: 'inner passage' (or 'interiors' as some call it) in cochise is a horizontal chimney that a lot of folks say is fun. havent tried it yet. its supposed to be very mellow compared to most of the chimneys folks have offered up. maybe next week.


thor4life144


Jan 19, 2006, 11:09 AM
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sixleggedinsect; THAT sounds sick. I am more into the more wider chimneys (my all time fav being a 6' wide chimney that you have lay out parallel to the ground and use your feet and forearms for pressure.)

thanks to everyone else too. I'll definitely be making that trip to Red Rocks for spring break. Might hit up some of those ones in UT and Moab the week after.


davidji


Jan 19, 2006, 11:27 AM
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In reply to:
if you want routes where the crux, or the memorable section, is chimney related- regular route on reed's pinnacle,
That tunnel-through is a classic chimney. Scary for some. A tight fit for most.

Someone else mentioned Chingando, which is just a bit to the left. That one's a burly OW. The short second pitch is the top of the Iota Chimney, and if you want to climb a chimney, I'd expect the Iota Chimney would be hella more fun than Chingando. I only recall one pro opportunity for the upper part, but it was easy.

Another Yos climb with classic chimneys is Right Side of the Cookie. Part of it is runout & size dependent--smaller is better. Secure for me. Not for my larger partner. Other parts are wide.

Church Bowl chimney down in the Yos Valley is popular.

The photos I've posted include 3 chimneys, two at popular climbing areas. You could see if any of those look interesting. One of 'em is wide, the way you like.


sixleggedinsect


Jan 19, 2006, 12:20 PM
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In reply to:
sixleggedinsect; THAT sounds sick.

yep. thats why i didnt climb it. sure *looked* good though.

In reply to:
I am more into the more wider chimneys (my all time fav being a 6' wide chimney that you have lay out parallel to the ground and use your feet and forearms for pressure.)

what? a foot to forearm chimney? and you called a generic foot-to-back crack 'sick'? you've got things all backwards, my friend.

the mere prospect of trying to chimney something foot to forearm makes my .. forearms.. sweat. woudlnt that climb better as a stembox? maybe not.

"there i was, fiddling with the purple TCU in one hand, equalizing it to a manky RP and a screamer, my sole connection with the rock: my right forearm and a couple of foot smears. a drop of sweat beaded off my glasses and, laid out parallel to the ground as i was, i watched it fall into the darkened abyss below. this made epinephrine look like 4th class.."


thedus


Jan 19, 2006, 2:54 PM
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I think i have to call s--- on:
lost arrow spire in Yo???

That'd be Lost Arrow Chimney, dude. Completely different route (though you can finish up on the Spire if you have anything left over).


brutusofwyde


Jan 21, 2006, 3:39 PM
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Salathe Wall and Magic Mushroom have a surprising amount of chimney climbing, all of it good.

Lost Arrow Chimney is great.

Glad someone mentioned Steck-Salathe. Definitely my favorite Valley Grade V.

Who couldn't help but love the endless 5.6 chimneys on the upper pitches of DNB?

Yosemite Point Buttress has its share of varied and interesting chimneys as well.

Left Side of Reeds Pinnacle is good OW and chimney the whole way, definitely more and better chimney than Chingando.

Honeymoon Chimney and Mace -- Excellent as well.

In City of Rocks, try Vertcal Turtle.
Red Rocks, Ixtlan.

High Sierra:
Tuttle Creek has two of the best backcountry chimneys I've ever seen: Stonehouse Chimney and Milktoast Chimney.

Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, CA


nedsurf


Jan 21, 2006, 4:29 PM
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glad to see that rob.calm represented vedauwoo on this thread. however he failed to engage in some shameless self promotion, so i'll do it for him. he wrote a great book on the area. check it out it is a great area for those wide cracks.


crackmd


Jan 21, 2006, 5:30 PM
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Midterm on Arch Rock in Yosemite sticks out in my mind.

Bottomless/Topless at Donner Summit, Ca is quite pleasant.

The Harding Slot on Astroman has been the scene of my questioning my reasons for being a climber on three occasions.

I must agree with Epinephrine. Chimneys don't get any more fun than that.

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