|
avitripp
Jan 21, 2006, 9:00 AM
Post #1 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 19, 2004
Posts: 67
|
I heard that someone ( Beal? I think) is coming out with an 80m x 8.1mm bi-pattern dry rope for alpine climbing(or whatever)....apparently the idea is you use it as a single for easy stuff....and double it over for harder leads up to 40m. I guess the bi-pattern would help keep track of what side you're clipping. 40m raps as well....anyone else heard of this? Sounds cool. Scary too.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jan 21, 2006, 9:05 AM
Post #2 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
sounds nice.
anyway, 80m ropes are quickly becoming pretty much essential for some stuff here, though 70m ones are still enough for most of the time.
|
|
|
|
|
far_east_climber
Jan 21, 2006, 10:49 AM
Post #3 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2003
Posts: 873
|
Hey look, I decided to write in a different color today.
80m, that's pretty cool. Kind of like the old days where double ropes were actually one long single rope. Cooool...
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Jan 21, 2006, 3:19 PM
Post #4 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
I remember coming across someones website where they were big into alpine climbing, and they climbed on a 9 mm 100 meter rope for the same reasons. I dunno where they got one though.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Jan 21, 2006, 3:48 PM
Post #5 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
You can usually get it off the roll if you really want to.... I guess you could get it as long as you want.... the problem arrises where weight overcomes the effectiveness of the length.... for ice and alpine, where double ropes are used almost always and where a long single line can be very advantageous, an 80-100m rope would be fine.... problem being, you would need to get used to climbing with it doubled.... one person would need to tie into the middle of the rope (would require a bulky knot to lead on).... I prefer to be tied into the ends of the rope, especially in a rescue scenario.... If I have to climb with double ropes I'd prefer to climb with two.... I would, however, climb on an 80m single line on an alpine climb, where speed is the key.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Jan 22, 2006, 6:58 AM
Post #6 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
I've caught falls on a single strand (of a half-rope) 8.1mm Beal Ice-line in the 25 footer range. It was in a less than ideal circumstances and I wouldn't recommend doing it frequently, but it's been done.
Wasn't the Rupal Face recently led on a single 8mm line?
Seems like the beal joker was supposed to be offered in a 100M x 9mm, don't know if it was ever actually shipped though. Try BDEL.com but i didn't see it on the website.
|
|
|
|
|
sspssp
Jan 23, 2006, 8:09 PM
Post #7 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
|
In reply to: I remember coming across someones website where they were big into alpine climbing, and they climbed on a 9 mm 100 meter rope for the same reasons. I dunno where they got one though.
The first "double" rope I ever climbed with a was 9mm 100 meter. Special ordered it.
Later I wanted a 120 meter rope. I could special order a 120, but I couldn't get it bi-color (at least back then), so I ended up with two 60m.
The 80m I would consider. I don't do many 80 m leads, but it would be nice for rapping in the alpine environment. I don't do many raps longer than 40m and it is really, really, nice to not have a knot in your rope in the alpine environment. Too much loose rock comes down as it is.
|
|
|
|
|
avitripp
Jan 24, 2006, 9:55 AM
Post #8 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 19, 2004
Posts: 67
|
where'd you get the 100m?
|
|
|
|
|
toml
Jan 24, 2006, 1:49 PM
Post #9 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2004
Posts: 71
|
One of my partners turned up at our backcountry basecamp / parking lot in the Alps a few years back with a brand new 100m ~9 mil bi-color.
Before the day was out he had chopped it in half. Uncoiling and unkinking that beast was a nightmare after just a few pitches of climbing and rapping.
Sadly I can't recall the manufacturer, or any other details of the rope. I could see a high-quality rope, with the right rope management techniques (e.g. belay devices that don't kink the rope), in a thin diameter, 80m long, could probably work, but my first question would be 'is that too long to manage?'
Especially on a discontinuous multi-rap descent, as it gets dark and you've done 15 raps and you're scrambling then rapping then scrambling, etc.
Of course, I'd be happy to test the rope out to find out.... :D
|
|
|
|
|
sspssp
Jan 24, 2006, 4:04 PM
Post #10 of 10
(1615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
|
In reply to: where'd you get the 100m?
Find a rope you are interested in. Then go to the rope manufacturer web site and see if they make it in the length you are interested (i.e. 100m or 120m). If they do, special order it. Your local gym/climbing shop or call up one of the online companies. When I have special ordered one in the past, I had to go through an intermediate company (e.g. shoreline), but the rope was shipped directly from the manufacturer to me (it didn't have to go to shoreline first).
|
|
|
|
|
|
