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go_dyno
Jan 25, 2006, 2:09 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2005
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I was hoping people would list there sock systems/boot sizing philosophies.
Types, combos, thickness. INSOLES and specific brands for moderate ice to alpine climbing using leather boots. I have several Canadian friends who are professional climbing guides and they swear by NRS wetsocks "alone"(a medium thin neoprene sock) and fit there boots to these thin semi-breathable neoprene socks. They also stress that the proper boot and fit is what keeps you warm and not thick socks which reduce performance fit and increase boot size and can decrease circulation.
Some of my American climbing friends think this is BS and high quality thick, heavy wool is the only way to go and is now so high quality that liner socks are not even necessary.
Sealskins have also a following as a vapor barrier style sock.
I am buying some La Sportiva Nepal Extremes and would like to come up with a sock system to fit them correctly. I usually use midweight smartwool with capilene liners and green super feet insoles. Advice most welcome.
God Bless
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tejz
Jan 27, 2006, 6:56 AM
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I personally like the capilene liners with a midweight wool sock over that and some sort of insole. Ive tried just wearing one quality wool sock but my feet always blister when I do that. I dont think the neoprene socks would be very comfortable at all, but I havent tried it.
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go_dyno
Jan 27, 2006, 8:28 AM
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Thanks. I had someone yesterday tell me that a Canadian climber they know swears by wearing a midweight wool sock(outer) a thin capilenesock (inner) and a neoprene sock (inbetween these).
I'm sure some people are thinking, "Duhh, its not rocket science", but my first mountain boots were La Sportiva(LS) Trango Plus, size 45. I was going to use for photographing on Big Walls and do lots of jugging and high speed climbing. I can only wear thin socks with these. My LS Lhotse boots also sz 45 are almost too big and need a lot of sock. After lots of kicking on ice my toes eventually start hitting the front of boot and I have to quit.
Is the rule of thumb fit boots with thin socks and buy more boot than less boot for conditions, or buy less substantial boot in a roomier size and try and adjust to weather conditions with sock combinations?
All comments welcome even if only to abuse my ignorance!
God Bless
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gunkiemike
Jan 27, 2006, 11:55 AM
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In reply to: Is the rule of thumb fit boots with thin socks and buy more boot than less boot for conditions, or buy less substantial boot in a roomier size and try and adjust to weather conditions with sock combinations?
I wear the same sock combo in my boots for all conditions. I have to - anything less and I get a sloppy fit (NG for steep ice) and anything more and the circulation is impeded (cold toes). So what do I do when the temp drops another 30 degrees?
Insulated overboots.
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talons05
Jan 27, 2006, 2:49 PM
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What reduces circulation is boots that are too tight, or socks that are too thick, or a combination of the two. Ideally, you want your boots to be fairly close fitting for vertical routes. For less than vertical, a little room is ok and actually kind of nice for longer routes. The close fit kind of eliminates the thick socks... If you try and add more sock for colder temps when your boot is fit for the thin ones, then you will be packed too tight and get c-c-cold. In reality, ice boots are just like climbing shoes. You can't expect to take a board-lasted crack shoe up a steep sport route and get the same performance as a velcro slip-last. Likewise, you can't expect to have a pair of boots that are ideal for both waterfall ice AND H.A. mountaineering. The REAL solution: Double plastics for H.A. and light/midweight leather or (BETTER) synthetic boots (like the new LOWAs). Wear thin to midweight with either and add overboots (like the O.R. Rangers) when it gets seriously nasty.
Summary:
A smidge more room for mountaineering (thicker socks/liner)
Close, "sportier" fit for vertical ice
You can't have the best of both worlds, and a compromise often sucks at both...
Cheers,
A.W.
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iceaxe23
Feb 4, 2006, 12:50 AM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2006
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I have all my boots sized so I can wear one wool sock (smart wool mountaineers ) and the fit is great , pretty warm, and I have never had a blister (though I was in the marines and have feet of steel) One sock is simple and foolproof. this has worked with me on the following leather single boots :LS nepal extremes, salomon pro ice, garmont tower, and I did try them with a LS jannu single boot but I think that boot could have used a VBL sock as they would totally soak my socks even on short trips and you would unzip them and the interior of the gaitor would be soaked in moister and the boot would be super damp.
I used to do the thin liner sock and such but it was just a hassle then I tried the smart wools and what a difference (not to just use one brand I also have use thorlo socks too with great success
as you can see though I have different boots for different climbing conditions though...but on the simple side I have used my nepals with the one sock in winter and summer with the same outcome "comfort"
hope this helps
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go_dyno
Feb 4, 2006, 2:23 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2005
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Thanks All.
I'm kinda bummed tho I just spoke to La Sportiva yesterday and they told me they would get my boots to me in July! So, much for having my new boots this ice season.
God Bless
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neurostar
Feb 7, 2006, 5:07 AM
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In reply to: I'm kinda bummed tho I just spoke to La Sportiva yesterday and they told me they would get my boots to me in July! So, much for having my new boots this ice season.
That's ice season somewhere!
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nedsurf
Feb 7, 2006, 5:15 AM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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Silk or capeline liner with expedition weight socks for my leathers. Good for 10+ mile approach hikes with heavy pack. AKA Mt. Constance. Ugh,! those thick olympic penn. woods.
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paulraphael
Feb 8, 2006, 7:06 AM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
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i've always gotten the best results with the traditional approach with heavy boots ... thin liners (capilene) and thick outer socks (bridgedale socks are by far the best heavy socks i've ever used ... amazing).
the thin sock/perfect fit apprach might be great in theory, but getting a perfect fit is going to be a fantasy for most people. with lighter boots you can count on the boot flexing and breaking in to your foot, but with fully rigid mountain boots you're stuck with the difference between the manufacturer's last and the feet you were born with. a little extra sock helps smooth out the differences, assuming you fitted the boots with those socks.
yes, thick socks are worse for climbing performance, but better for approaches and staying warm.
not quite on topic, but i wanted to rave about some socks that seem unknown to the climbing community (they're used by ultramarthoners and adventure racers). called seal skinz. they're thin, waterproof, breathable socks. perfect for wearing with summer weight boots or approach shoes when you anticipate getting wet. they really work. i've worn them in the city in snow with running shoes, and my feet have stayed bone dry. they have a goretex-like liner, nylon outer, and they stretch. not as breathable as wool, but definitely not vapor barriers. and they're seamless ... totally smooth.
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