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New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent?
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newrivermaniac


Jan 29, 2006, 6:16 PM
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New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent?
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Hey all,

I'm new to climbing but have done a bunch of trips to the NRG and have read just about every Eric Horst book he's written. This guy has totaly changed my life! His trianing tips have turned me into a 5.9 crushing MACHINE. One of the a$$holes from my gym claims that Eric hasn't redpointed a 5.14, and to be honest, I can't find any proof online that he HAS. Can anyone validate or disprove that for all the awesome training beta Eric has in print- that he has or hasn't climbed a 5.14? I'd love to be able to restore the honor of my hero!


timm


Jan 29, 2006, 6:19 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Assent or Ascent ?

But, to be perfectly honest, should the poll be "Who cares?".


newrivermaniac


Jan 29, 2006, 6:22 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Suck my A$$-ent


miavzero


Jan 29, 2006, 6:23 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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since when was climbing 5.14 an indication of honor? I belive Horst redpoints somewhere in the middle/slightly upper 5.13 range. Eric & others generally have reasonable advice for people. His work isn't the bible, but he isn't 100% full of it.


miavzero


Jan 29, 2006, 6:39 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/html2/eh-bio.shtml
you could also send a pm to the user horst on this site.


rockhardkoch


Jan 29, 2006, 6:42 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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I dont know, I think redpointing 5.14 is an indication of honor. I think newrivermaniac raises a very important question.

I have casted my vote for no. I too have enjoyed the Horsts training writing, but I dont think he has sent a 5.14. Can anybody out there name a 5.14 that he has redpointed? Perhaps the Horsticizer himself could grace us with his online presence and tell us about his hardest send.

The gauntlet has been thrown. Let all those with knowledge of Horsti's send power come forward.


rockhardkoch


Jan 29, 2006, 6:48 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Well, I must say I read through Lord Horstimort's website, and I didnt see anything about a 5.14. Perhaps he who must not be named should join us in our discussion. Let it be done.


rock_ranger


Jan 29, 2006, 6:53 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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If you've read his books then you know he states that 5.12 (maybe 5.13) is the bell shaped curve for most climbers. Then he states genetics dictate 5.14 and above. With over 450 FA's you should be able to lookup his routes and see if any meet your expectations. In his book TFC in the about the author section is a pic of him climbing Welcome to Conditioning (5.13a). He's also done Diamond Life (5.13a).

Here is a quote from his website:

"When asked to name his biggest climbing accomplishment, Eric doesn't name one of his many 5.13 first ascents, but instead says "having helped thousands of climbers, in over 50 countries, climb better and enjoy this wondrous sport even more!"


The numbers game is stupid, climb becasue you enjoy it.


miavzero


Jan 29, 2006, 6:58 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I dont know, I think redpointing 5.14 is an indication of honor. I think newrivermaniac raises a very important question.

I have casted my vote for no. I too have enjoyed the Horsts training writing, but I dont think he has sent a 5.14. Can anybody out there name a 5.14 that he has redpointed? Perhaps the Horsticizer himself could grace us with his online presence and tell us about his hardest send.

The gauntlet has been thrown. Let all those with knowledge of Horsti's send power come forward.
Abe Lincoln, FDR, Albert Einstein, Ghandi, Sitting Bull, Mother Teresa, John Gill, John Bachar, Chuck Pratt, Robert Steck, Tenzing Norgay, Edmund Hillary, Reinhold Messner, Fritz Weissner and many, many others have never redpointed 5.14.
Vince Lombardi was never a standout football player. -just food for thought :D


newrivermaniac


Jan 29, 2006, 7:01 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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I KNOW he's done 5.13... I have all the books. I need to know if he's done a 14! I'm getting pretty desperate! Where can I look this up online?

... I personally think Eric's done more for climbing than any other person in the world! But he's also not completely immune to the 'numbers game': he DID write a book called 'how to climb 5.12, right?

Can I just email Eric on this? Maybe it's getting out of control...


glyrocks


Jan 29, 2006, 7:02 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Ahhh, I'm pretty sure Ghandi sent 5.14. Might be wrong though.


rock_ranger


Jan 29, 2006, 7:11 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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He has a blog at http://www.mountainzone.com/...erformance_training/ and seems to answer peoples questions and comments. You can also email him from the trainingforclimbing.com site.

I'm pretty sure if he's done 5.14's then they would have been in his books..if numbers sell that is :D


rockhardkoch


Jan 29, 2006, 7:12 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Alright guys, lets stay focused. No one doubts that Dr Horst has helped many many climbers. And we arent suggesting that he is any less of a man, or completely pathetic or anything- thats not even a question.
We all know that he is an accomplished author and training guru.

But lets cut out the childish talk about this not being a numbers game. I mean really, grow up. We're trying to talk about something serious here.

5.14 send or no 5.14 send?

.13as have nothing to do with this discussion.


rock_ranger


Jan 29, 2006, 7:22 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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"But lets cut out the childish talk about this not being a numbers game. I mean really, grow up. We're trying to talk about something serious here."


Serious to who? Obviously Eric doesn't take numbers seriously or we'd hear about him projecting things over 5.13. He probably would tell you to grow up. :lol:

If you want a hero that puts up big numbers then go ride Sharma's jock.

ps. my dad can beat up your dad.... :lol:


newrivermaniac


Jan 29, 2006, 7:37 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Thanks for all the links to Erics training sites. I never knew these were out there! Unfortunately, they all say mulitple 5.13 first assents... If he's been climbing for almost 30 years and done dozens of 5.13, then is it safe to assume he's done ONE 14? It seems like all the hard climbers out there have done this grade. I think Sharma even did a 15 right?

I really don't CARE if he's done a 14, I just wanted to stick it to someone who thought Eric couldn't give good advise if he didn't climb hard. Eric's work and publications stand on their own. He deserves all the credit and noteworthiness he's gotten. I really just thought it would be easy to say 'screw you... he HAS climbed 5.14!'. :(


rock_ranger


Jan 29, 2006, 8:07 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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newrivermaniac your heart is in the right place. Don't let gym rats bust your bubble. Eric's books have helped me personally improve from 5.9's to 5.11a/b's. I agree he's probably done harder routes and he IS the real deal!

Sharma and Graham have both done 5.15a. But they are genetic freaks :) Sharma doesn't even rate his routes anymore because of the annoyances that follow as soon as you put a number on something.

Keep training and following Eric's guidelines, and when you pass up the people that are giving you greif you'll be able to look back and laugh.

(wow I really need to do spell check before I post..lol.)


gordo


Jan 29, 2006, 8:14 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Am I the only one who thinks rockhardkoch and newrivermaniac are the same troll :roll:


rockhardkoch


Jan 29, 2006, 8:26 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Well Senor Rock Ranger, it seems odd to me that you bust on "gym rats", when your own hero, Eric Christ himself, makes holds for Nicros and tries to sell his little HIT(Hello, Im a Tool) Strips everywhere he goes.

And Ill have you know that I am not the same person as newrivermaniac. That is a blatant lie.

And maybe you should go out and buy "How to Climb 5.12"


gordo


Jan 29, 2006, 8:30 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :troll:


miavzero


Jan 29, 2006, 8:42 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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[quote="rockhardkoch"]...Eric Christ himself, makes holds for Nicros and tries to sell his little HIT(Hello, Im a Tool) Strips...quote]
fricken hilarious!
His books do remind me of infomercials, but look at it this way: Eric makes a good living by doing things related to what he loves to do. I met him and his family a couple years ago at the crags, and he came off as a really nice guy who was psyched to be be out climbing. We talked a little bit about climbing and even a little bit about training. All in all, he is a friendly fellow with positive energy.


newrivermaniac


Jan 29, 2006, 8:54 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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Thanks Mia! I haven't met Eric yet. I don't even know what I'd say! Probably: "Please tell the A$$ from the gym that you've done a 5.14!"

Actually, I don't care anymore about the numbers. I think Rock Ranger is right... I've already climbed some 5.9s at the gym that I couldn't do in the Fall. I'm also going to start working on starting to lead (but I think John Long has the corner on THAT book market!).

Anyway, I'm sorry I brought up this question in this kind of forum... this is obviously NOT the right place to ask questions like this! Can I delete this?


curt


Jan 29, 2006, 8:58 PM
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Curt has moved this thread to the Retard Forum.

Curt


hweight


Jan 29, 2006, 9:00 PM
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This. . . this is all a joke, right?


rockhardkoch


Jan 29, 2006, 9:11 PM
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Alright, thats it Horst. The gloves are coming off.

You wanna talk turkey? How much money is it gonna take?

Ill wager everything I have on this.

Thats right- you and me, Bubba City, this weekend- a climboff to the death.

You think you can take me, pal? You show up by yourself with your harness and shoes and no funny business.

I swear it to everything holy I can take you. If my name isnt Larry H Koch.... You dont have the heart. Youre nothing. I own you.


miavzero


Jan 29, 2006, 9:32 PM
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Re: New River Gorge: Eric Horst - Hardest Assent? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Curt has moved this thread to the Retard Forum.

Curt
Curt,
Why do you even post on RC.com? It's kind of like walking onto the short bus and fighting for your own seat.

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