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mrhappypants
Jan 28, 2006, 9:05 AM
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I started climbing two septembers ago (04), and I was getting V2s before the end of the month. I took a break for winter (november-march) and after two weeks in the spring I got my first v3. Since then I've not been climbing much. Over last summer I was working too much and whenever I wasn't working, it was raining. Now I'm in Italy for a year abroad, and so I haven't been climbing for four months. It's killing me!
Anyways, I am definitely one of those that "powers through" delicate problems. I thrive on overhangs and campusing.
I started climbing at the same time as my friend Logan. We progressed at almost the exact same pace. He got his first v2 (we were both working the same one) a few days before me, and then I got the v3 first on the same day that he did. We basically have all of the same climbs under our belts.
Except for a few: There is a v1 that is just a huge overhang with a heel hook, and I can do it without the heel hook, making it more like a V2.
There are 5 v0 slabs in our area. I can do one of them, with difficulty. Logan, who can't even do a single pull up, can do all five of them, and did them all on our first day climbing. He also has better success on traverses.
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daithi
Jan 28, 2006, 3:11 PM
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In reply to: Now I'm in Italy for a year abroad, and so I haven't been climbing for four months. It's killing me!
Italy has some absolutely amazing climbing. It would be a travesty to spend a year over there and not do any climbing.
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mchristie
Jan 28, 2006, 5:20 PM
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Go to Hueco and you'll be falling off of V2's for years. It really depends on where you climb. Ratings are subjective and should be taken with a grain of salt. Climb for the enjoyment of it not for the grades.
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xjlx
Jan 28, 2006, 5:23 PM
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The gym that I go to/learned to climb at has bouldering problems/but aren't really graded. If you ask the employee's they will tell you, but they are not marked. Anyways, the first problem I ever did was a v2, it was the "easiest" problem at the gym, only took me 3 months to get it too :lol: I am often stuck with trying problems that are over my level, but I wouldn't say that is neccessarily bad. It does get frustrating sometimes when it feels like you don't make any progress, but I have seen overall progress in strength and technique. OP - Stick with it, no matter how long it taks bro.
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jaybro
Jan 28, 2006, 6:34 PM
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how many rabid teenagers does it take to
screw in a lightbulb?
not that there aren't some excellent points here.
work hard, but be patient.
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jred
Jan 28, 2006, 7:50 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Now I'm in Italy for a year abroad, and so I haven't been climbing for four months. It's killing me! Italy has some absolutely amazing climbing. It would be a travesty to spend a year over there and not do any climbing. |
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liquidshadow111
Jan 28, 2006, 9:09 PM
Post #32 of 97
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I'm still stuck on V2
:D
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mrhappypants
Jan 28, 2006, 11:32 PM
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Its not a matter of location - its the program I'm in. I have school five or six days a week, and the other day/two days are spent studying. I'm kind of miffed. I was planning on enjoying italy, and instead i've been thrown into an academic program way above my level and that which I anticipated. There's a sport climbing area a day trip away, but i've never done sport before, so i'm gathering all of the gear as fast as I can afford it.
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Now I'm in Italy for a year abroad, and so I haven't been climbing for four months. It's killing me! Italy has some absolutely amazing climbing. It would be a travesty to spend a year over there and not do any climbing. No kidding is this a joke? |
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collegekid
Jan 29, 2006, 12:31 AM
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There's some V0's and V1'st that I'm still stuck on, and I've been climbing for over 4 years!!!!
Then there's the v4's that I can get in an afternoon...and v6's that take me 2 or 3 separate visits...there's a V7 that I've visited 3 times, and just need to link it all to get the send (hopefully i'll get it over spring break).
So it all depends on the type of climb, your style, and how motivated you are to get it done. If you REALLY want a particular climb really badly, just work it into submission by visiting it over and over again and you'll eventually get it (unless it's some mono-pocket-one armed pull up-type of climb, which obviously requires some natural talent).
keep at it, have fun, and send!
I honestly don't remember how long it took for me to get my first v1.
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sick_climba
Jan 29, 2006, 5:45 AM
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I started on v.2s and such.... but i didn't start bouldering until about 6 months or so into my climbing life.
In reply to: How long did it take you before you could move from doing V0's and V1's to doing bigger stuff like harder V1's and V2's and such?
good luck
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drewskey
Jan 29, 2006, 10:35 PM
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I was climbing about a month and a half before I pulled off a V5.
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monicastrasen
Jan 29, 2006, 11:37 PM
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Here's a question to the original poster and any post-ees, for that matter --
How old are you? I think this is a valid point in terms of how fast you progress through the grades.
I'll be 45 this year and hope to go from V2 to the V5/6 range by the end of the year, maybe summertime if I'm persistent. I figure at this rate I can save joint/ligament/tendon integrity and (fingers crossed) avoid injury. If I were, say, 20 years younger, my game plan would be much different -- mainly tearing up every bouldering problem I could get on and setting my sights on some crazy V10 by year end.
As to the numbers thing, I agree with many responses here -- climb hard, do your best, have fun, and $%*& the ratings! I try not to let my competitive side take over and just use grades as a way to judge my own progress, but man, it does make me feel like I'm dragging my behind when I read that someone is at V5 after 6 weeks -- congrats, by the way, on that.
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jaybro
Jan 30, 2006, 3:51 AM
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"I'll be 45 this year and hope to go from V2 to the V5/6 range by the end of the year, maybe summertime if I'm persistent."
This, strikes me as a sensible, attainable plan. Good luck!
Jay-49
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styndall
Jan 30, 2006, 4:14 AM
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In reply to: Go to Hueco and you'll be falling off of V2's for years. It really depends on where you climb. Ratings are subjective and should be taken with a grain of salt. Climb for the enjoyment of it not for the grades.
You'll be falling off some Hueco V2s for years. On No One Gets Out Alive, though, every hold is the thank-god jug you want at the top of your project.
Local Flakes spanked me hard, though.
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katalyzt
Jan 30, 2006, 4:07 PM
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haha ok well thanks for all the info.
just to clear things up... I'm not really concerened with when I'll be able to cend a V1 consistantly and smoothly. I figure that'll come in time and frankly I donn't care since my footwork needs the most attention at the moment, so I do mostly traversing. I was just curious what the average time is :)
Haha, plus if I really cared about the numbers I wouldn't be going to the gym. There's this 14 year old kid who's been there the past couple times who can just climb walls like a monkey (consistanly doing around V5's). Makes me look like a total pansy. But he's definatly fun to watch and learn from.
And about injuring my self at that pace... Nah I don't think so. I know my bodies limits (been doing extreme sports my whole life). The trick is to push your self hard but just to the edge, not over.
Thanks for all the positive words guys. ROCK ON!
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watchme
Jan 30, 2006, 4:22 PM
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I think this topic illustrates perfectly why John Gill originally created his closed-end "B" scale for rating boulder problems. He wanted people to not focus on numbers, but on the problems themselves.
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climbsomething
Jan 30, 2006, 4:44 PM
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In reply to: And about injuring my self at that pace... Nah I don't think so. I know my bodies limits (been doing extreme sports my whole life). The trick is to push your self hard but just to the edge, not over. |
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mchristie
Jan 30, 2006, 4:52 PM
Post #43 of 97
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In reply to: I think this topic illustrates perfectly why John Gill originally created his closed-end "B" scale for rating boulder problems. He wanted people to not focus on numbers, but on the problems themselves.
Ding....Ding.....Ding.....LAdies and Gentlemen we have a winner!!!!!! The B system might not be perfect, but your exactly right, it stresses the movement and the problem, NOT THE ATTAINMENT OF A NUMBER!
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 30, 2006, 5:05 PM
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For about 12 hours, waiting for the Search and Rescue team. Imagine my embarassment, though, when they said I could probably just jump down to my crashpad and I'd be all right. Well, how was I supposed to know? I've never taken one of them self-rescue courses!
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alpinerock
Jan 30, 2006, 9:45 PM
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In reply to: PS. no matter what 90% of people say climbing is all about the grades,
In reply to: if it wasn't 90% of climbers would just climb 5.3 AND HaVE A SUPER AMAZING TIME WOOHOO!!!!
In reply to: But no... climbing is about challenging yourself and thus it is about the grades.
once again false see above statements
In reply to: 2 weeks is insufficient time to be climbing "hard".
false unless your the next dave grahman most in fact all will not be climbing hard unless your some extreme outlier geneticly speaking who the likes of talent wise has never been seen...
In reply to: Two months of climbing as much as you are and you will definitely feel stronger!
In reply to: Remember getting better is about being consistent in your climbing and training!
I think i know what your getting at but just to clear up any possible confusion to key to improving in climbing is varying your training and climbing, essentially targeting your weaknesses. If your "consistent" in what you train you might improve for a while but you will plateau.
Just remember to love what your doing and everything else will fall into place!
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alpinerock
Jan 30, 2006, 9:55 PM
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In reply to: haha ok well thanks for all the info. just to clear things up... I'm not really concerened with when I'll be able to cend a V1 consistantly and smoothly. I figure that'll come in time and frankly I donn't care since my footwork needs the most attention at the moment, so I do mostly traversing. I was just curious what the average time is :) Haha, plus if I really cared about the numbers I wouldn't be going to the gym. There's this 14 year old kid who's been there the past couple times who can just climb walls like a monkey (consistanly doing around V5's). Makes me look like a total pansy. But he's definatly fun to watch and learn from. And about injuring my self at that pace... Nah I don't think so. I know my bodies limits (been doing extreme sports my whole life). The trick is to push your self hard but just to the edge, not over. Thanks for all the positive words guys. ROCK ON!
Do you by chance climb at the quarry? If so is that kid named james simmons? I'm just interested because that kids one of my climbing buds, i introduced him to the sport back in the summer and have been coaching him since then.
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katalyzt
Jan 30, 2006, 10:26 PM
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nah I climb at RockReation. The quarry looks cool though so I think I'll be trying it out. I don't know the kids name but I think I over heard somebody call him Hunter.
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krusher4
Jan 30, 2006, 10:44 PM
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WTF man???? Drive for 10 more minutes and climb on rock???
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katalyzt
Jan 31, 2006, 3:06 PM
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In reply to: WTF man???? Drive for 10 more minutes and climb on rock???
Ok, dude... I'd love to but... It's Utah, "best snow on earth". But you are right, that's the eventual plan :) Give it a month or two, when the snow melts, and you won't be able to tear me away from the canyons.
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alpinerock
Feb 7, 2006, 7:09 PM
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In reply to: nah I climb at RockReation. The quarry looks cool though so I think I'll be trying it out. I don't know the kids name but I think I over heard somebody call him Hunter.
Oh i know hunter too, he's a pretty dedicated kid, comes from parents who climb, one of the only young tradrats i know locally besides bob monson and myself to a certain extent.
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