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superbum
Feb 1, 2006, 5:09 AM
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So, Just curious...who else thinks that climbing shoe technology is quickly bordering on the ridiculous and overdone?? I just learned that Montrail's new shoe the Wasabi not only has thermo super molding footbeds, but it has a "cut-out" midsole so that it has stiff edges, but a sensitive middle!!
I remember when Madrocks came out, thinking that they were obviously cheating w/ the "ribbed" heel and wierd dual densities...now look at how normal and acepted they are (I even own a pair!) Things are getting out of control. I feel like as soon as I buy a shoe, a new, improved version will come out, just like computers!
Don't get me wrong, I want to try on every fancy new pair and get 10 different kinds for all the diff. crags I go to, but christ allmighty. At least fiveten is making a high top....
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musicman
Feb 1, 2006, 5:13 AM
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In reply to: I feel like as soon as I buy a shoe, a new, improved version will come out, just like computers!
but i totally agree with you on the shoe thing, it's crazy. but then again, the shoe doesn't make the climber, of course loco's are going to help you a hell of a lot more than mythos in a cave, but none the less alex huber loves the mythos, soloed 5.14 in them. shoes don't make the climber, but they sure as hell help.
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musicman1586
Feb 1, 2006, 5:38 AM
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Shoe technology really doesn't matter. Like was already said, a simple pair of Mythos have been used to climb stuff well beyond most people's level, a pair of Moccs will get you up El Cap, and more then a few of the climbers that I climb with climb 5.13 in $60 Flashes. My opinion is find what works for you and stick with it. Don't buy a new shoe like you replace your out of date computer. Just my opinion though, I'm sure there's plenty that disagree.
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couloir
Feb 1, 2006, 5:38 AM
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The wasabi actually isn't the first shoe to have a cut out midsole. The 5.10 zlipper brought that technological advancement out a few years ago, and they are still my favorite shoe of all time. And I still don't like the ribbed heels that are becoming more standard. I think that people see something new and just assume it's better.
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outsideguyzak
Feb 1, 2006, 6:24 AM
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pretty soon they will have suction cups or rockets on the bottoms. It will definitely make big walls go quite a bit quicker! ;)
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unrooted
Feb 1, 2006, 6:32 AM
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HA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HA
YOU WEAR MAD ROCKS????
HA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HA!
I can't believe people buy those stolen design, poorly made pos's.
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unrooted
Feb 1, 2006, 6:33 AM
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HA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HA
YOU WEAR MAD ROCKS????
HA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HA!
I can't believe people buy those stolen design, poorly made pos's.
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anykineclimb
Feb 1, 2006, 7:31 AM
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I agree with others. use what works for you.
as for me? I'm stuck in the past. I was stocked to find a brand new pair of Purple 5.10 Huecos on eBay. They fit me better than the newer ones and I'd kill for some UFOs. Of course, I'll use the Mocs forever.
althought the new montrails look interesting...
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dudemanbu
Feb 1, 2006, 7:37 AM
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speaking of zlippers.. man, what a great shoe. :D
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bortoletto
Feb 1, 2006, 9:09 AM
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Are things out of control? Maybe. I got my all shoes and for my surprise I have only two pairs of normal shoes,one slipper and seven pairs of climbing shoes and another is coming. Yeah, just like computers update needs.
borto
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notch
Feb 1, 2006, 1:25 PM
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...and have you seen how light and thin they're making ropes now? And it seems like every time I turn around someone's just come out with a lighter cam with greater range.
Innovation, progression, refinement...I don't need any of that! Excuse me while I go back to my cave, I have a long day of hunting and gathering planned for tomorrow.
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areyoumydude
Feb 1, 2006, 6:20 PM
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In reply to: HA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HA YOU WEAR MAD ROCKS???? HA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HAHA HA HA HA! I can't believe people buy those stolen design, poorly made pos's.
I think you've got your facts mixed up. It was Five Ten that "stole" ideas from Young Chu the owner of Mad Rock. Some of Five Tens most popular shoes were designed by Young.
btw my favorite shoe is Mad Rocks Flash. Their most basic shoe. Three resoles and still climbing.
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edge
Feb 1, 2006, 6:40 PM
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The last major breakthrough in climbing shoe technology, in terms of shaking the climbing community, was the introduction of sticky rubber and Boreal Fires in the early 80s.
I still remember John Bachar and John Rosholt (a former climbing partner and dear friend) sneaking past me and Rosholt (the "Gambler") sneaking me a peek at those magic slippers on their way to solo Bishop's Terrace.
Within the matter of one week it seemed like everyone had sold their souls to the devil to aquire a pair, and I truely believe that many people, myself included, could climb a full number grade harder overnight with them.
Now, we are blessed with many shoe/rubber/fit/purpose options. Find what fits your feet and stick with them. I personally do not think that ribbed heels, dual density soles, or any other gimmick are worth the paper they are advertised on.
There are many great shoes with solid but un-spectacular design that are on the market.
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unrooted
Feb 2, 2006, 3:10 AM
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In reply to: I think you've got your facts mixed up. It was Five Ten that "stole" ideas from Young Chu the owner of Mad Rock. Some of Five Tens most popular shoes were designed by Young. btw my favorite shoe is Mad Rocks Flash. Their most basic shoe. Three resoles and still climbing.
Say again, who did Young Chu design those shoes for??? So not only is he a thief, he is also a traitor. You get what you pay for. I will stick to Five Ten and sportiva when it comes to buying shoes.
Fair Trade not Free Trade!!!
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pullhard84
Feb 2, 2006, 3:41 AM
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Don't hate on madrocks, I wouldn't buy a different shoe. They are durable, the rubber is good and most importantly you can actually afford to buy them.
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dudemanbu
Feb 2, 2006, 3:46 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I think you've got your facts mixed up. It was Five Ten that "stole" ideas from Young Chu the owner of Mad Rock. Some of Five Tens most popular shoes were designed by Young. btw my favorite shoe is Mad Rocks Flash. Their most basic shoe. Three resoles and still climbing. Say again, who did Young Chu design those shoes for??? So not only is he a thief, he is also a traitor. You get what you pay for. I will stick to Five Ten and sportiva when it comes to buying shoes. Fair Trade not Free Trade!!!
Madrock is the reason that shoe prices are once again becoming affordable. It doesn't make sense to pay 140 bucks for 3 dollars worth of synthetic leather and 80 cents worth of rubber.
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musicman
Feb 2, 2006, 4:11 AM
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In reply to: Don't hate on madrocks, I wouldn't buy a different shoe. They are durable.
you're the first person i've ever, ever heard say that.
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organic
Feb 2, 2006, 4:36 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I think you've got your facts mixed up. It was Five Ten that "stole" ideas from Young Chu the owner of Mad Rock. Some of Five Tens most popular shoes were designed by Young. btw my favorite shoe is Mad Rocks Flash. Their most basic shoe. Three resoles and still climbing. Say again, who did Young Chu design those shoes for??? So not only is he a thief, he is also a traitor. You get what you pay for. I will stick to Five Ten and sportiva when it comes to buying shoes. Fair Trade not Free Trade!!! Madrock is the reason that shoe prices are once again becoming affordable. It doesn't make sense to pay 140 bucks for 3 dollars worth of synthetic leather and 80 cents worth of rubber.
Yeah exactly... I mean who cares about research and development and product testing and marketing and product design and blah blah blah. Damn idiots want everything for free.
PS. I own a pair of 5.10 dragons, 5.10 anasazi velcros and 5.10 anasazi laceups and didn't pay over $60 for any of them. Bought them all barely used off of noobs like you who waste their money and cry because they are too tight and then sell them at below half price to people like me who actually climb. Long live noobs and ebay.
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superbum
Feb 2, 2006, 4:47 AM
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I didn't want this thread to become a fight for your favorite shoe, I just wanted to bitch about all these wacky cheater computer shoes that EVERY brand is now producing in some capacity....
I do own madrock mugans and am buying my third pair tomarrow actually (on sale!). Each previous pair has lasted for just over a year each...yes I Do climb outside, 3-4 days a week. So in my opinion they can be durable. Fivetens ARE great shoes, but are currently out of my price range and tend not to fit my small heel anyway.
I also recently purchased some old school Boreal Ninjas (on sale for $40) and had them resoled w/ C4. No gimmicks there, just leather, elastic and rubber.
I am just CURIOUS how far will this go? Every shoe company throws out 3 or more new models every year all more "advanced" than the next. I just got worked on High Plains Drifter in Bishop, a v7 put up by Dale Bard pre-crashpad in hightops..and I was wearing one Mugan and one Katana...
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phugganut
Feb 2, 2006, 5:08 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Don't hate on madrocks, I wouldn't buy a different shoe. They are durable. you're the first person i've ever, ever heard say that.
Actuall, areyoumydude said it a few posts before that:
In reply to: btw my favorite shoe is Mad Rocks Flash. Their most basic shoe. Three resoles and still climbing.
I'll be the 3rd. I have abused a pair of MR Flashes for about for over 2 years & 3 resoles and they are still my favorite pair. I have shoes from la sportiva, boreal, and evolve & the Flashes are still tops.
As for the OP, I like simple proven designs. It's more about the fit & your skills than it is the shoe.
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musicman
Feb 2, 2006, 5:11 AM
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yeah, i'll definitly agree with you on the fit being really important. i've just heard that mad rocks fall apart quickly, seen them blown out real quick (although from someone without the most respectable footwork), but hey, they could be getting better. and if someone was too offer me really inexpensive, or free madrocks i'd take them in a heart beat. but i've been satisfied with sportiva and 5.10.
p.s. sorry for hijaking the thread :oops:
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foeslts16
Feb 2, 2006, 6:07 AM
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quote]
I mean who cares about research and development and product testing and marketing and product design and blah blah blah. Damn idiots want everything for free.
quote]
You actually believe that shit huh? Let me get this straight, you actually believe that the reason your 5.10s or XXX brand shoes are $125 is cause those R&D people are spending countless hours in the labs, or maybe it's all the $ for product design. I bet that they don't even make a single $, they are selflessly putting out the shoes just to help climbers. Dude pull your head out of your ass. This is the same lame ass party line that drug companies spew in defense of not making their products affordable. Up until this point I thought no one was dumb enough to buy that kind of retoric, but I guess you proved me wrong.
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musicman1586
Feb 2, 2006, 7:49 AM
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In reply to: yeah, i'll definitly agree with you on the fit being really important. i've just heard that mad rocks fall apart quickly, seen them blown out real quick (although from someone without the most respectable footwork), but hey, they could be getting better. and if someone was too offer me really inexpensive, or free madrocks i'd take them in a heart beat. but i've been satisfied with sportiva and 5.10. p.s. sorry for hijaking the thread :oops:
Honestly I think alot of the durability problems with Mad Rock comes from the fact that their priced as beginner's shoes, so guess who owns most of them? I've seen people who blow out a pair of Flashes in 4 months, but I've also seen guys make them last easily longer then a year, and these people are all climbing at the same crags. Personally I know more people who have had durability problems with 5.10. Even most the reviews on this site for the Anasazi Velcros say that while their a great shoe, they fall apart like no other, and the Velcros are just one of the many shoes that people speak about durability problems from. All I know is that you can get 2 pairs of Mad Rocks for the price of one pair of Velcros. :lol:
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static_endurance
Feb 2, 2006, 1:33 PM
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The shoe advancements are all going in a positive way. It's not exactly like new climbing shoes are destroying climbing. Some things work for people, some things don't. Personally, i've been waiting for the Wasabi's for a while, i don't think they've been released into canadian stores yet (though they may have, correct me if i'm wrong, then tell me where). And if not, my zealots are still treating me just fine.
The only place i'd draw the line is when someone get's the genius idea that a microchip would make climbing shoes awesome, just like skis and running shoes.
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penisenvy
Feb 2, 2006, 1:54 PM
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In reply to: So, Just curious...who else thinks that climbing shoe technology is quickly bordering on the ridiculous and overdone?? Snippity... I feel like as soon as I buy a shoe, a new, improved version will come out, just like computers!
I would compare it to toothbrushes - Every week a dubious new bristle arrangement or springy-head design. At least with computers the damn things actually get quantifiably better/faster.
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