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broganadams
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Aug 17, 2001, 7:59 PM
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It is the best and hust look at all the areas to climb at. Wow I think that it compares to those famous places like Cal. and Utah. Maybe it is better?
Mr Oregon "2002"
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tradgirl
Aug 17, 2001, 8:19 PM
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I agree, Oregon kicks ass. We have both ocean and mountains only 2 hours away with climbing at both. Montana does run a close 2nd though...
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broganadams
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Aug 17, 2001, 10:47 PM
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Oregon is also better because of Smith. Did anyone see the new pics in the new Rock& Ice Mag.
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manboy
Aug 17, 2001, 11:33 PM
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what famous climbing area is in washington? the best states for climbing are:
Oregon
Utah
Arizona
Nevada
California
Kentucky
Colorado
there's lots of good climbing in other states, but these are the best of the best with the most amazing climbing (sport climbing).
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broganadams
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Aug 18, 2001, 12:44 AM
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Thanks for having my back Steve
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patman
Aug 19, 2001, 3:02 AM
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My cousin Livs their he climbs i think
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manboy
Aug 19, 2001, 3:38 AM
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Kylewa, thanks, you proved my point. Washington doesn't have good climbing. None of those places you mensioned are "famous", maybe to you and your friends because you live there. Smith ROCKS! Just Do It, To Bolt or Not to Be, Badman, Big R, Starvation Fruit, Burl Master, Ozone, Churning In The Wake, Rude Boys, Chain Reaction.... These routes are "Dirty"???? NO, They are not! what are you talking about? Also, Smith has one of the highest concentrations of 5.14's in an area in the USA making it a choice destination for climbers from around the globe.
anyway, my point is, Washington is NOT a choice location for a climber to live in the states.
[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-08-18 20:59 ]
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russman
Aug 19, 2001, 4:30 PM
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alright hold on...how many climbs have you ever done in WA? There are proabaly not any famous or published climbs (outside the major volcanoes, which are abundant) but there is plenty of differnt types of rock all accross the state to climb. From Basalt to grantie to god only knows what the others are called.
Second, I will almost guarentee that on any give day at any given time, I can take you to climbing that has never been climbed before and that there is nobody around would be thinking of climbing it. Jeust tell me how hard. It might not be the same rock you are used to, but there is deffinatley CHOICE climbing in WA. I am sure that WA has the lowest climber to rock ratio around...everyone complains about the rocks being littered and too many people, stay away from us, because we don't have that problem and i don't want to start having it.
Unless youlive in a state and know that state inside and out (26 years in WA personally) you don't have a CLUE what kind of climbing is there. You are right it is not well known, in fact many people don't think there is climbing up here. GOOD let them think that and stay the HELL away from our rocks if you don't think there is any climbing.
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broganadams
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Aug 20, 2001, 8:02 PM
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Oregon is the champion. next on the regional death match we will have canada vs. Oregon
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russman
Aug 20, 2001, 8:15 PM
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As i said before, there are much more popular and more well know climbing places all over the US, much more than WA state, but I am sure tha all of you will agree that the area that "you grew up climbing in" for the most part will be your individual favortie spot and in your own opinion "The Best Climbing" I feel that way of many differnt places but would love to climb some of the places the rest of you have. Most of my climbing has been done on rocks with no name, no bolts, and no ratings, just me and a friend with a rope some slings and lots of sun. I love it that way
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billcoe_
Feb 4, 2006, 1:46 AM
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In reply to: Oregon is the champion. next on the regional death match we will have canada vs. Oregon
Not even close.
Calif, wa and Canada (hey!) all are far superior.
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turfguy
Feb 7, 2006, 3:37 PM
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either this is a lame troll or you are mistaken. how in the world can you really compare cali to oregon. cali=yosemite, josh, sierras, bishop, castle crags, tahoe, lovers leap ect... oregon=smith and some bouldering. don't get me wrong i live in and love oregon but the climbing leaves something to be desired. i climb at smith quite a lot but am not sold on the place. just my two cents...
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scottquig
Feb 7, 2006, 5:21 PM
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Russman, you are quite correct. Washington is not the place to be if you are a hangdogging sport climber. But if you're interested in alpine scrambling, mountaineering, or alpine trad, Washington is extremely hard to beat. The North Cascades and Olympic Nat'l Parks have some of the most remote and jagged peaks in the country. The Sierras and Rockies are higher, but the Rockies are older (thus rounder) and you won't find any remote alpine mountaineering with glacier travel at 6000 feet in either the Rockies or Sierras. Washington is also a much cheaper place to live than Cali. In the summer, the weather is hard to beat. Seattle gets a rap for lots of rain, but that just means lots of snow in the winter (up high, of course), and come summer time the weather is amazing. I guess I shouldn't make Washington sound any better...You guys NOT going out there just means more FA's and undisturbed travel for me!
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angusmacginny
Feb 7, 2006, 5:52 PM
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In reply to: Russman, you are quite correct. Washington is not the place to be if you are a hangdogging sport climber. But if you're interested in alpine scrambling, mountaineering, or alpine trad, Washington is extremely hard to beat. The North Cascades and Olympic Nat'l Parks have some of the most remote and jagged peaks in the country. The Sierras and Rockies are higher, but the Rockies are older (thus rounder) and you won't find any remote alpine mountaineering with glacier travel at 6000 feet in either the Rockies or Sierras. Washington is also a much cheaper place to live than Cali. In the summer, the weather is hard to beat. Seattle gets a rap for lots of rain, but that just means lots of snow in the winter (up high, of course), and come summer time the weather is amazing. I guess I shouldn't make Washington sound any better...You guys NOT going out there just means more FA's and undisturbed travel for me!
You got right here. I would love to live in Oregon but wont move there because the climbing just is not there. Smith is great and all, but the place has little to no alpine, and jack shit for good granite crags. Living in WA give you the best of all worlds. Within a friday night drive of Seattle you have all of the following:
Index - one of the best granite crags anywhere
The North Cascades - The single best alpine area in the lower 48
Mt Rainier - Slog till your hearts desire and get sick cus you live at sea level.
Squamish - Best rock climbing outside of Yosemite
Smith - when the weather sucks everywhere else
Tieton River canyon - Basalt and Andisite column climbing.
Levenworth - Great alpine feel craiging
The only thing we lack is ice. We dont get any of that around here.
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markd
Feb 7, 2006, 5:56 PM
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bill, where did you dig this thread up from?
i'm not going to compare oregon to other states as they are all different......but oregon is a good place to be.
if you like trad climbing, don't want to hang with the masses, don't need a guidebook book with star ratings and route names and want to put up fa's, then oregon will suit you just fine.
whoever said washington doesn't have good climbing must not have hung out there. ever heard of peter croft? he seemed to like it!
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therelic
Feb 7, 2006, 6:53 PM
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No doubt Oregon is great for climbing!
Where else can you climb a fun route with exciting moves one year then have the crucial holds pull off in your face the next year because the rock is too soft and got drowned and frozen for the 11+ month rainy season?
Where else can you find an exotic challenging route with buckets one year then go back the next year and be unable to find the route because it became totally overgrown with moss during the 11+ month rainy season?
Where else can you wait months for that one sunny day to send your favorite route only to find out when the sunny day does arrive that the crag is closed because there are Peregrines nesting next to it?
Where else can you find a crag loaded with stellar 5.10-11 routes that nobody climbs year after year because nobody in the area can climb over 5.7?
So if you are thinking of traveling to Oregon because of the climbing remember "In Oregon we don't tan we rust" and the super crag you heard about last year, well it was logged last month. Yesiree Oregon is where it's at.
Bill
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billcoe_
Feb 7, 2006, 7:41 PM
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In reply to: bill, where did you dig this thread up from? i'm not going to compare oregon to other states as they are all different......but oregon is a good place to be. if you like trad climbing, don't want to hang with the masses, don't need a guidebook book with star ratings and route names and want to put up fa's, then oregon will suit you just fine. whoever said washington doesn't have good climbing must not have hung out there. ever heard of peter croft? he seemed to like it!
Mark, I was working on my thread revival skills! If we can get it to go for 3 to 4 pages then I hear that the admins of the site will send me some free gear.
BTW, it was monsooning when I found this thread, today the sun is out and I have to say: Oregon kicks ass. Well, at least for the next 15 min it will until it starts raining again. I think there is a distint difference between Western and Eastern Oregon. The trees tell that story fairly well.
My personal opinion is which applies to each of us is this: I think no matter where you (you being each individual) are, you will still be there. It's all good or not, depending on your own unique attitude.
I think Brogan moved to Texas 4 years ago or so. Wonder what he'd say today?
Hi Bill! Good to see you too. I think if Oregon was to need something like Liberty Bell or anything in Yos, we'd have to build it ourselfs!
I still like Oregon and there is good climbing all over the place, but I'd rather spend 2 weeks in Yosemite, Lovers Leap, Squamish (assuming no rain), Bugaboos or the North Cascades cause of the long beautiful routes on (fairly) hard rock.
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therelic
Feb 7, 2006, 8:10 PM
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Oh thanks Bill, for mentioning "the sun is out"! I got so used to the monsoon rains I forgot to look outside. Peregrines or not it's sunny and I'm going to my crag this afternoon. When I get there I will climb my favorite route, in my Speedo's of course (not a pretty sight) because it will surely be raining again by the time I get there.
Bill
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crimper7
Feb 7, 2006, 8:27 PM
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oregon, where to begin. once you accept that you have no real chance at climbing granite in this state, you then realize that basalt and tuff are your medium, and you learn to love them - or else you whine about how oregon sucks because there's no granite.
(disclaimer: i love basalt, and i'm in oregon for the foresseable future, so of course i'm biased)
so, when it came to granite, oregon got skipped (thanks arent). but as markd wrote earlier, oregon has an amazing amount of single pitch basalt FA potential. choose between dead vertical columns, striking aretes and steep overhangs; that's what we have to work with.
i imagine that so many of these FA opportunities at deserted and/or virgin crags exist even in 2006 because most of the seriously ambitious climbers are elsewhere, setting speed records in yosemite or whatnot.
what that means is that not only we get to put up these routes, but even at established crags you don't encounter the sheer numbers of people you might see in CA or CO or even WA.
smith rock is an exception, but it's probably no exaggeration to say that 10% of the routes see 90% of the traffic. 5 gallon buckets, magic light, BBQ the pope, heresy, lion's jaw, cinammon slab: these are good routes, but there are 1500 routes at smith, providing a lifetime of adventure.
so why am i spraying about oregon? none of you are going to move here solely because of the climbing, and you'd be a fool to do so. but if you're here already, you've probably barely scratched the surface of the climbing available to you.
really, i'm just trying to get this thread to 3 pages so that bill coe can get some gear out of this! (and maybe the oregonhaters can check out the photos markd has posted so they see what they're dissing)
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angusmacginny
Feb 7, 2006, 8:28 PM
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What the hell is wrong with you guys? If you cant find high quality dry climbing at least 9 months a year then there is something wrong with you. You are correct that it rains alot on the west side of the mountains, but it is a desert on the East side, and is barely ever raining. Not to mention the fact the western side of the cascades quite possibly has some of the best summers anywhere unless you like 90+ degrees. How can you complain with 4 solid months of 70-80 degree weather everyday when the rest of the country is sweating their balls off chasing shade. After that then there is reliable climbing on the east side of the mountains for another 5 months.
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billcoe_
Feb 7, 2006, 8:36 PM
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Oregon has some pretty fair granite here and there, I've done some of it.
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porcelainsunset
Feb 7, 2006, 11:57 PM
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When it really comes down to it, we got the better beer, the better surf, better sking, and the better sport/trad climbing than washington. However, when it come to alpine, Washington has it, hands down, compared to just about all of the lower 48 in my mind. 3 pages yet?
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