|
kuhntrunk
Aug 15, 2002, 5:19 PM
Post #1 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 15, 2002
Posts: 1
|
I am just getting into aid climbing and was wondering how many steps you want. I am planning to get better and get into bigwalls.
thanx for any comments
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Aug 15, 2002, 5:28 PM
Post #2 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
6 for aid, 4 for alpine
get a pair of Yates Wall Ladders or the Russian Aiders that Fish will be making, the other kinds suck (imho)
|
|
|
|
|
wallhammer
Aug 16, 2002, 5:00 AM
Post #3 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 26, 2001
Posts: 265
|
if Dr. P says the russian aider system is the $hit, than the odds are it will be common big wall practice in a few years. why not get ahead of the game now?
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Aug 16, 2002, 5:47 AM
Post #4 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
If you can find them, buy Russian aiders.
Otherwise for regular big wall aid, buy two five-steps and two six-steps, and put one of each on each daisy.
You need the lowest step of the six for testing pieces on hard aid.
|
|
|
|
|
justsendingits
Aug 20, 2002, 9:03 AM
Post #5 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
I have 2 sets of Yates aiders.--I cut the bottom rung off of all of them!!! Less clusterfu$%age!!--Alas though,soon I hope to be doing hard aid,and as PTPP said,I will need the 6th rung for hard aid.Also,on the new pair of Yates aiders,they have an elastic strip on the bottom two rungs,when you are jugging,you wrap these elastic around your foot,and it keeps your feet in the rungs.I sewed them in to my old aiders,it helps a lot when you jug.
,,,But as soon as I can,I want to get the Russian aiders!! Any word from Russ Walling?(Fish) are they going to make them?
[ This Message was edited by: justsendingits on 2002-08-20 02:08 ]
|
|
|
|
|
theclimer
Aug 20, 2002, 12:02 PM
Post #6 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2002
Posts: 81
|
Russ auctioned off the last of his prototype Russian Aiders just a couple of weeks ago. I think he's waiting for the word to get in from the field as to what needs to be improved on the original Trango design before he commits to another round of manufacturing. I have no idea what time frame this will occur in, but I am pretty sure he's going to do it at some point.
|
|
|
|
|
full-time-climb
Deleted
Aug 20, 2002, 5:33 PM
Post #7 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I have the new Metolias speed aiders. They are great. Never any tangles. I have not taken a fall in them yet...I will answer some questions when I do. Anyone else fallen in them?
L8r
John
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Sep 4, 2002, 10:05 PM
Post #8 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
Full-Time,
Are you talking about the Easy-Aiders? I bought these as my first set of aiders and used them happily because I didn't have anything to compare them with. After using a friends regular aid ladders for the first time I went out and bought a set. I found that it's just quicker to step up on the ladders then to cinch down on each aider individually in order to move up. Between using the easy aiders and easy daisies, I was beginning to feel like a marrionette. I won't give up my easy dasies, but adding in the easy aiders was just a little to much like playing Pinnochio.
I did blow a piece while using the easy aiders and took a fall on to the daisy attached to the lower piece. Didn't think it sucked any worse than falling with regular aiders. At least with the easy-aiders you're feet won't slip out of 'em when you fall, but you'll still end up inverted if you're too far above the piece you're hooked in to.
BTW--Yates ladders are BAD ASS! Far superior than other ladders I've used IMHO.
Ed
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Sep 4, 2002, 10:50 PM
Post #9 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
I`ve gotta agree with the marionette scenario. I used both the Pika and the Metolius adjustable etriers and daiseys and found it was much as you say. Too many strings to pull to make upward progress. I`ll not give up my easy daiseys though. The Russian aiders are awesome when combined with the easy daiseys. You`ll never go back to the standard etriers after using the Russian aiders.
I am interested in finding out why you think that the Yates ladders are so much better than other aid ladders.
...Phil...
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Sep 6, 2002, 5:01 AM
Post #10 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
Hi Phil,
The PVC tube at the top of the aiders acts as a "spreader bar" and prevents the steps from collapsing around your feet when weighted. The steps themselves are 2" wide and are more stiff than the steps in my Metolius ladders or my buddies Black Diamond aiders. They are six step aiders, so the length helps for testing pieces placed high from the top step of your other aider. There is a full strength bottom clip in point that can be used to tag a rack or clip on other gear to use as a balast to keep them from blowing around in high winds. Yates website (www.yatesgear.com) indicates the bottom clip in loop is full-strength so you can also clip the bottom aider to the top aider for moving up on those pieces placed with a cheater stick (not that I've ever done that kind of thing ).
The bottom two steps also have an elastic strap to keep your feet in place while jugging.
Disadvantages? The ain't light, and they cost $31 each (US).
Overall, the Big Wall aiders are just very well constructed. Hope you get a chance to check out a pair.
Ed
|
|
|
|
|
justsendingits
Sep 6, 2002, 10:36 AM
Post #11 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
I got the Yates ADJ. daisy also,with built in screamers,the webbing wears out kind of fast,mostly when you don't have the webbing centered on the buckle and its on the corner of the buckle.Traddional daisy's are safer in a fall,but that is the price you pay for using ADJ. daisy's for speed.
They say on the Yates web site not to use the ADJ. daisy with screamers for solo,anybody know why?
|
|
|
|
|
brisboy
Sep 7, 2002, 2:23 PM
Post #12 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 40
|
i use a set of 5 steps and a set of 4 steps and that seems to be awsome, i have done some A3+ and had no problems with them
|
|
|
|
|
skloppen
Sep 7, 2002, 8:48 PM
Post #13 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 14, 2002
Posts: 28
|
Justsendingit,
I saw that thing about not using them for solo aid on the Yates site too. There was a thread here a while ago asking wheather it was possible to solo climb unroped (using three daisies, if the one your on blows, one or both of the other one catch you). The consensus seemed to be that this was a very bad idea! I think this is what the Yates site is refereing to.
I hope that if I'm wrong (which I could very well be as I'm just a BWT), that someone will correct me!
from Stefan
|
|
|
|
|
karlbaba
Sep 8, 2002, 8:33 PM
Post #14 of 14
(3745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
|
Soloing with screamers/daisies is dangerous, but not as dangerous as soloing with just daisies, which isn't as dangerous as free soloing. I've done em all and mixed em up. I would feel less comfortable using an adjustable daisy for soloing than a screamer/webbing daisy. Would worry about that slip (but it could be a good thing too. Just don't know)
Any gear maker who indorsed such a sketchy practice is total lawyer bait. They warn you to retire your harness after a fall too.
Peace
Karl
|
|
|
|
|
|
