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michaelmcguinn
Feb 8, 2006, 2:29 AM
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I like mentally difficult test pieces. Here is my list. So far 1 Down.
Bachar/Yerian – Tuolumne Meadows
Fiddler on the Roof – Red Rocks
Jules Vern – Eldorado Canyon
Any others out there??
MM
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lofstromc
Feb 8, 2006, 2:31 AM
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Posts: 528
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The Edge, Tahquitz
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dynamicpanda
Feb 8, 2006, 2:35 AM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 288
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Orange Blossom Special, Stone Mountain, NC
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kovacs69
Feb 8, 2006, 2:38 AM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
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Any route at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma.
All of the routes there are run-outs.
They are very fun climbs though.
JB
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chronicle
Feb 8, 2006, 2:42 AM
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Check out Stone Mountain, NC. Plenty of runouts there.
Also in North Carolina is Whiteside. The "Original Route" starts with a 160 foot 5.7 free solo. In total it's 9 pitches. I don't think anything would be more runout than that. A lot of the routes at Whiteside are runout 50 feet or more.
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vegastradguy
Feb 8, 2006, 2:56 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Deep Space, Red Rocks (40' 5.9 chimney...)
Sidewinder, JTree (I don't care who you are, that top-out is fucking spooky)
Sunflower, Red Rocks (40' 5.9 slab)
Rock Warrior, Red Rocks (I hear that you can be up to 40-60' out, doing 5.10 moves and having trouble finding the camoflauged bolt!)
I hear the Shuteye Ridge area is pretty stout and pro can be scarce....
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boltdude
Feb 8, 2006, 3:02 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 685
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Crack of Doom, Yosemite Valley
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ecjohnson
Feb 8, 2006, 3:07 AM
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Registered: Apr 19, 2005
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Most routes in the Cochise Stronghold. If you love runouts, then you'll love the possible 30 foot runouts above a slung chickenhead! Or the notorious runouts above normal gear.
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leapinlizard
Feb 8, 2006, 3:10 AM
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While it isn't really mentally taxing the runouts are pretty cool. The Snake Dyke Route on Half Dome.
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landgolier
Feb 8, 2006, 3:22 AM
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Heard tell recently of some rig in brazil that is 9 sets of anchors 150' apart, no pro (natural or bolts) in between. Put that one in the pipe and see if it will even light!
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jsj42
Feb 8, 2006, 3:50 AM
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In reply to: So far 1 Down.
Which one did you do?
Try also:
Screaming Eagles on Chiefshead in RMNP.
Dolofright on Dolomite Tower outside of Moab.
Excellent Adventure and Sandstone Samurai, both in Red Rocks.
Stoners' Highway in the Valley.
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kricir
Feb 8, 2006, 4:48 AM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2005
Posts: 434
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most offwidths
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mdude
Feb 8, 2006, 5:03 AM
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Posts: 198
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Big Cams and Big Bros.
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davelwang
Feb 8, 2006, 6:51 AM
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I second the edge @ Tahquitz. I do believe it features two 40 feet run-outs at 5.10 on slab. Not that I have done it!
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overlord
Feb 8, 2006, 8:39 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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you realize that you posted this in indoor gyms forum??
my first reaction was indoor climbing+runout= :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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nowinowski
Feb 8, 2006, 1:20 PM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2003
Posts: 134
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terra firma and psycho killa at seneca get my vote
dresden corner at the new
anything at stone mountain
sun wall at looking glass
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sevrdhed
Feb 8, 2006, 1:52 PM
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Registered: Feb 5, 2004
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I'm going to have to go with this route....
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=68216
I mean look... if he falls from there, he'll deck! :lol:
Steve
P.S. Since I feel bad not contributing ANYTHING, I'll add that theres a route up the great white throne that I'm planning on doing that apparently has some pretty nasty runouts... average 3 bolts per pitch.
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dogger
Feb 8, 2006, 2:03 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2005
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Cashiers Valley North Carolina surely has the highest concentration of serious run-out routes in the East.
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overlord
Feb 8, 2006, 2:03 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
the funny part is... he probably will. there seems to be just enough slack and hes just enoug above the last bolt...
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jaybro
Feb 8, 2006, 2:09 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 441
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The Needles eye, needles South Dakota. Pop a knob at the right place on this one and you could take a fifty foot grounder onto a car.
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fishbelly
Feb 8, 2006, 2:23 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 273
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Thin Crack White Rocks PondBank Pa.
BrassBalls, Heel A Peel, Dauphin Narrows
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cchas
Feb 8, 2006, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
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Calavaras and Hammer Dome in California. Good adventurous climbing.
I can give you beta on a route I put up with a friend on Wallface in the Daks (NY). It was very fun climbing sporting a 120ft runout on moderate ground (.10a/b'ish). Good climbing but nearly cost me a pair of shorts
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nuts_r_us
Feb 8, 2006, 2:31 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2005
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In reply to: The Needles eye, needles South Dakota. Pop a knob at the right place on this one and you could take a fifty foot grounder onto a car.
I was waiting for someone to mention the Needles (Black Hills Needles). Superpin would be my first choice with my limited knowledge. The first ascent was basically free solo since the "belayer" stopped "belaying" to take pictures when it became evident that a fall would be fatal anyway.
http://www.dakotakid.net/...imbing/superpin.html
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jderekforrester
Feb 8, 2006, 3:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
Posts: 104
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Sundevil Chimney, The Titan and Phantom Sprint, Echo Tower. Zest Factor High
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edge
Feb 8, 2006, 3:32 PM
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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Well, Stoners Highway was definately mind-expanding. In fact, if I blew it, it probably would have been mind-blowing, as I never wore a helmet back then.
But I have to think the most notorious run-out that I ever did was on the start of Hall of Mirrors, which we actually hoped to complete, but the first 7 pitches were known as Misty Beethoven and were, by modern standards, freaking nutballs. I never got past pitch 7; more to come.
My partner at the time was Lynn Wolfe (sp?) and she was frigging amazing. Lynn had worked as a ranger at Devils Tower, and was one of the handful of people who I would name in my short list of best partners ever; third only to my wife and daughter.
We swapped leads on Misty, with 150' leads, and when I took a 30' peeler off of Misty's sixth pitch, a 5.11 crucible of insecurity, I tried again. I peeled twice, only the second time was damn nasty, and I flipped up so that my hair had to catch the cord on my glasses We rapped after that.
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