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alpie
Feb 23, 2006, 4:15 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2006
Posts: 38
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Hi everybody!!
New to the site, been climbing 8 years or so.... Remote Alpine Rock is my pref, so I am heading out to the bugs (bugaboos) this summer for my first far off trip.
I got the guide book and a bunch of other info, but am looking to chat with some people who have been there.
Anyone?
Cheers!
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graniteavenger
Feb 27, 2006, 8:27 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2004
Posts: 98
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Hi Mate,
I spent a few weeks there through July/Aug last year. If you have any questions just PM me. There are a couple of pics in my photos too.
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dogger
Feb 27, 2006, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 14
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Here is some info I sent to a friend recently.
Aktinson/Piche--THE guidebook
Highway Approach
When driving in from Calgary, there are two routes and both take essentially the same amount of time.
Rt1
From Calgary stay on 1 (Trans-Canadian Highway) all the way to Golden and then head SE on 95. This route takes you in the direction of the Columbia Ice Fields (Athabasca, Andromeda, etc.). Good grocery store in Golden.
Rt2
Take 1 to 93 through Kootenay and then pick up 95 at Radium Hot Springs. This route takes you close to the Assiniboine Provincial Park. (This road-93-has been closed at least part of the time, both times I've been there, due to forrest fires).
Dirt Road Approach From Highway 95
The pull off and 20some miles of dirt road up to the parking lot is inobvious though the Aktinson/Piche book has a great map. Once in the parking lot give yourself about 20 minutes to properly rig the chicken wire. We did bivy (illegal) one nite in the parking lot but regretted it a bit b/c of the dampness and bugs.
Foot Approach
Though the hut can be easily seen from the parking lot, it's steep and taxing. Give yourself a good two hours with full packs.
Base Camp
Two campgrounds and the hut are the options. Applebee CG sits another steep (full pack) hour above the hut. It's nice, puts you close to McTech Arete Area (up to 4 to 5 pitch "non glacial travel" alpine cragging--good warm up), the approach to Bugaboo's E Ridge as well as quick access to the Bug/SnowPatch Col.
The hut is the Shjt. H2O, electric stoves stoves, hot dish water, lights, foamies, all kitchen utensils, space heaters and great camaraderie. When you are in the hut "you're in."
The other camping sites sit below the hut and some are better than others.
Routes
Bugaboo Spire
1. Kain Route--Ascend the B/SP col and leave your mountain boots and ice gear at the route base. Many variations for the first 1/3 of the route (3 & 4th class). A bit of easy though exposed low fifth leads to the crux. The Gendarme will get your attention a bit and is followed by a some more (easier) fifth class climbing. A few raps from the top, including down the OTHER side of the gendarme, get you back down to the mainly scrambling descent.
2. East Ridge--a pitch or two (often a bottlecap with climbers in the alpine AM) of easy fifth to gain the base of the route ridge. Then a couple hundred feet of slabby fourth class are easily simuled and bring you to the base of the route proper. The first pitch is definitely the crux and the upper pitches ("ridge traverse") will take some time.
Pigeon Spire
3. West Ridge--VERY easy one light rope and 8-10 pieces of gear. The (short) crux is gaining the summit.
Snowpatch
4. Snowpatch Route-Scope/doing the approach to the base of the fifth class climbing before attempting--is helpful. Inobvious and can be a big time eater in the alpine AM.
General Info (LIGHT-LIGHT-LIGHT)
Generally speaking you want the lightest (somewhat) waterproof boot you can find. A good lightweight strap on crampon compliments this footwear (e.g., La Sportiva Trango Guide or better yet the now extinct Trango Plus) that will likely lack welts. One axe per person is adequate and again lighter the better. Many routes (2 &4) require you to carry boots and ice gear throughout. 2 60 meter ropes will be necessary especially if rapping the B/SP Col (bolted belays on both sides--climber's R usually the better). You can very likely climb the col with w/o any intermediate protection (bring 1 or 2 screws at the most.) Twins would be awesome. Some people climb/rap on a skinny single and carry 200' of 6 mil retrieval rope (the knot jams against the rings and one raps the single).
You can leave food in the car, so if you're going to be there a while, you can always go down and get more on a rest day. Goretex Jacket yes, but very likely that GTX gloves, pants, gators, etc. would not be necessary.
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brent_e
Mar 2, 2006, 7:03 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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In reply to: Hi everybody!! New to the site, been climbing 8 years or so.... Remote Alpine Rock is my pref, so I am heading out to the bugs (bugaboos) this summer for my first far off trip. I got the guide book and a bunch of other info, but am looking to chat with some people who have been there. Anyone? Cheers!
Jordan,
Best of luck to you, man! Let me know (or post a trip report here) how it went and the like.
Best
Brent
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