|
bloodyhands
Mar 3, 2006, 6:54 AM
Post #26 of 30
(2228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 29, 2005
Posts: 78
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Use an atc (or atc xp) and tie a prusik (5-6mm should give the best bite) on the side of the rope leading up to the climber. Clip the prusik to the same biner you're belaying off of. As you take in slack the prusik will unlock itself on the atc. In a fall it will lock the rope off. Have you actually ever tried this? I am guessing that you have not. I can't imagine this would work at all while belaying, and you'd have a difficult time paying out rope quickly enough without short roping. I have been climbing quite a while and I have NEVER once seen anyone backup a belay with a prusik. A rappel, yes, but not a belay. I think they're talking about top-rope belays, not lead belays.... Jim We were, thanx for clarifying for me.
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Mar 3, 2006, 7:09 PM
Post #27 of 30
(2228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
In reply to: I am slightly paranoid, yes. How about a third person ? You belay and a third one holds the rope, just in case if you let go.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Mar 3, 2006, 9:20 PM
Post #29 of 30
(2228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Use an atc (or atc xp) and tie a prusik (5-6mm should give the best bite) on the side of the rope leading up to the climber. Clip the prusik to the same biner you're belaying off of. As you take in slack the prusik will unlock itself on the atc. In a fall it will lock the rope off. Have you actually ever tried this? I am guessing that you have not. I can't imagine this would work at all while belaying, and you'd have a difficult time paying out rope quickly enough without short roping. I have been climbing quite a while and I have NEVER once seen anyone backup a belay with a prusik. A rappel, yes, but not a belay. I think they're talking about top-rope belays, not lead belays.... Jim We were, thanx for clarifying for me. Even if you were talking about a top-rope, I have still never seen anyone do this and still can't imagine why anyone would think this was a good idea. Belaying a toprope is not rocket science and really does not need a back-up, especially if that back-up has the potential to cause more problems than it cures. If you still think you can't belay someone on toprope with a standard tube style device (in which case, you've got bigger problems than which device to use) learn to properly use a grigri or a cinch.
|
|
|
|
|
hazgas
Mar 4, 2006, 6:04 AM
Post #30 of 30
(2228 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 28
|
I've looked at it more and decided on trying out a TRE. Does anyone know where to get them for $58 still? The damn things are $80 now most places!
|
|
|
|
|
|