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jakk
Mar 9, 2006, 9:08 PM
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When thinking about switching to double ropes for a future rope purchase, the following question came to mind: how do you bail on belay with double ropes? I am looking for the equivalent of the method you use with a single rope + zipline, where you can bail in midpitch by rappelling on the zipline while still on belay on the main rope, meanwhile cleaning as you go down and hence only leaving a single piece.
How can you do this with double-ropes, without trailing a zipline as well? The only thing I can think of is to ask the belayer to take on of the ropes of belay, and repeat the technique above with that rope instead of the zip line - but this seems very sketchy to me...
Jakk
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agrauch
Mar 9, 2006, 9:23 PM
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Interesting... the techniques used for escaping a belay seem sketchy but rapping off a single piece of gear doesn't?
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jakk
Mar 9, 2006, 9:31 PM
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In reply to: Interesting... the techniques used for escaping a belay seem sketchy but rapping off a single piece of gear doesn't?
No - because while you do that (rappel of the zipline) - you are still on belay on the main rope. This method is explained here:
http://climbing.com/...echtips/tttrad241-2/
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jakk
Mar 9, 2006, 9:36 PM
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edit: deleted double post
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heiko
Mar 9, 2006, 9:59 PM
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Maybe you could simulate the zipline technique by pulling up one of the strands and rappelling as described, while being belayed by your partner on the other strand. Wouldn't do that with real twin ropes though.
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taller_climber_dude
Mar 10, 2006, 2:32 AM
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hay check out climbing mag issue july 05 there a (a safe retreat)tech tip that discirbes what your asking perfectly.
it like this
1. place the high leaver piece (a hex/nut/or tricam)
2. set up the zipline on the leaver piece.
!careful thin ropes move through quick!
3. have your partner stay on belay as a attentive belayer
4. as you rap down on the zipline clean your gear
5. as you go down have your partner take in rope
then your down, hopely down where you wanted to go, not 30ft from it
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extreme_actuary
Mar 10, 2006, 2:56 AM
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In reply to: Maybe you could simulate the zipline technique by pulling up one of the strands and rappelling as described, while being belayed by your partner on the other strand.
If you pull up one of your doubles, you just lost half your protection if you've been clipping each strand alternatively. You might have a hard time recovering your pro and will probably be in for a whipper fall if the piece you are rapelling off of blows.
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dirtineye
Mar 10, 2006, 3:11 AM
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I don;t give acrap what thi article says, if I had double ropes, (and I have two sets) I'd set a bail piece for each one and retrace my route cleaning as I went, being lowered. And if you don't know how to easily get back to your gear, or can't figure it out pretty quickly, then you don't need to be climbing.
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