|
tagaustatoppen
Feb 22, 2006, 5:55 PM
Post #1 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2005
Posts: 93
|
I am what Dr piton would call an aid theorist. I however am looking to learn "the better way." I have seen several mods that people have done with there grigri's. In searching for "the better way" I realize the people that have been there before are the ones that I need to ask what is "the better way" of making your grigri easier to use while on aid?
|
|
|
|
|
tagaustatoppen
Feb 22, 2006, 6:13 PM
Post #2 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2005
Posts: 93
|
I know that one of the mods is to drill a hole in plastic at the bottom of the thing and put a ring there. Why do people do this? What does it do for the climber? The other mod I have seen is a hole drilled through the plastic at about the center with a 3mm cord through the hole and then tie the grigri to a modified beaner. This is so that you never drop you device unless you drop the beaner then you're freakin' screwed. For soloing what seams to make the device more simple?
|
|
|
|
|
giza
Feb 22, 2006, 7:20 PM
Post #4 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 315
|
Don't believe everything you read in Dr. Piton's posts....the guy is a fucking egomaniac. Admittedly, there are a few gems amongst the volumes of ego-stroking BS but there is a lot of crap to sift through to find them.
|
|
|
|
|
tagaustatoppen
Feb 22, 2006, 7:28 PM
Post #5 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2005
Posts: 93
|
bobruef thanks for the web site that is a great help. giza I think that he has lots of good ideas but i understand that he has a bit of an ego. This will be the first season that I will not be aid climbing with my father (timpanogos) if I have any concerns I usually ask his advice. thanks for the advice though.
Tyler
|
|
|
|
|
ridgeclimber
Feb 24, 2006, 5:09 PM
Post #6 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 163
|
I've only used clove hitches to solo, but from what I understand the hole and ring setup keeps the grigri from locking up when you move. This might seem like a minor bother, but on really hard aid you need to move efficiently so as not to blow sketchy pieces.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 10, 2006, 2:23 AM
Post #7 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Use a piece of 3mm cord to tie the Gri to its locker, so you can't drop it. Tie it through the clip-in hole on the plate that swings open. Don't drill it unless you absolutely know what you're doing. A small hole can create a gigantic stress riser and render the thing unsafe.
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Mar 10, 2006, 6:15 AM
Post #8 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
In reply to: ... This will be the first season that I will not be aid climbing with my father (timpanogos) if I have any concerns I usually ask his advice. thanks for the advice though. Tyler
Chad is your Pop?! How's the ol' codger doing? We haven't seen him around here in a while. Tell him Ed said hi.
Ed
|
|
|
|
|
tagaustatoppen
Mar 11, 2006, 4:54 AM
Post #9 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2005
Posts: 93
|
yeah, chad is my old man. he does lots of work not so much climbing. I'm glad that he has a nice rack because i use lots of his stuff. I get lots of help from him, but like i said this is really my first season with out him always with me. I have a few solo goals this year too but I still hope to get him to zion this year a few times.
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Mar 11, 2006, 5:16 AM
Post #10 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
Gri Gri mods - been there done that. Its really not worth it though. I have found that the small conviniences they add arent worth the work, risk of messing up an $80 object, the void warranty, and questionable structurable integrity of the hardware. I definatly feel much more comfortable using an un modded gri gri.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Mar 12, 2006, 2:11 AM
Post #11 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
(what ^they^ said)
why modify? do you feel an overwhelming need to personalize every facet of your gear experience?
I can understand doing so in order
to get creative with a placement.
to work around a specific problem unique to your situation.
but some people tend to take things too far, and for misguided reasons.
Increase ease of rope-feed?
If you are moving so fast while solo-aiding that you need to worry about the ease of feeding, perhaps you're aiding up a free-climb? Even when I need to step out of the aiders to pull some free moves I've got plenty of time to think about what I've got going on.
It took me 20 minutes to talk myself into stepping off my 30th-hook-in-a-row-above-a-ledge to an easy 5.6 mantle-to-slopey-ramp-free-climb-with-rack-eight-feet-to-that-crack. I knew exactly how far I was going to go on that ramp before I would be able to get in a piece. Think I didn't have enough slack ready to go?
The ease of feeding had little effect in maintaining my efficency on a (long) series of "sketchy" hook moves. In fact, I was wishing at that point for an entire string of hooks all the way to the anchor, if only to avoid getting out of my ladders.
Fear of dropping your device:
I can understand the fear of dropping the device at change-overs, but this is a reasonable fear in that it causes me to be VERY attentive EVERY time my gri-gri must be removed from its locker.
In fact, I attach so much importance to my gri-gri while on a climb that IF I DROPPED IT, I would take such an event as an indicator that maybe continuing in an upward manner might be the less intelligent thing to do at the time. I would probably rap the route with my atc from the bottom of my pig, even though I could lead and probably finish the route on clove hitches.
If one fails to provide opportunity for the universe to speak to them, how will we know when it's truly time to
RUN> RUN> RUN AWAY, LIVE TO CLIMB ANOTHER DAY!
Perhaps you've got the wrong piece of gear to do the job? Might I suggest you try a silent partner next time?
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Mar 12, 2006, 2:21 AM
Post #12 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
^^^ Very much enjoyed the above post.
I do have a clip in loop on my grigri, but it is simply a threaded piece of perlon that goes through the biner hole in the blue plate. No biggie, no structural integrity problems and it does the trick.
Regarding cutting off the flap of metal for easy feeding: Do you know why the flap is there in the first place? Well, it seems that its there because it holds the rope in full contact with the cam.
Rope contact with the cam is what makes the Gri Gri catch from any orientation. Now...how do you feel about cutting off the tab? Imagine the worst case what if...I've never heard of it not catching when modified, but but do you want to be the first?
My grigri self-feeds 90% of the time with my 10.2mm supersafe, and it is the last thing on the list of crap that slows me down.
How important is the grigri? I carry a spare for long walls, and keep it in the "Oh Shit" bag with a spare headlamp, free shoes (shiver), first aid kit, cyanide pill, and spare aider.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
mikeehartley
Mar 12, 2006, 4:21 PM
Post #13 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2003
Posts: 118
|
As just one more example of how a minor change can create big problems;
I use a small piece of paracord on my Gri-Gri as a keeper. It used to be about a 2" loop. I had used it a lot without problems until one day it worked itself over the cam keeping it from engaging. I got lucky and live to make more mistakes on another day.
My clip-in cord is just big enough to get a biner through now.
|
|
|
|
|
heximp
Mar 12, 2006, 7:09 PM
Post #14 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 169
|
Thanks for the thread... You have just answered a few questions that has been bothering me of years!!!
"I just got use to them being unanswerable..."
I am now in a very happy mood.
|
|
|
|
|
esoteric1
Mar 12, 2006, 7:13 PM
Post #15 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2002
Posts: 705
|
ptpp has writen articles with other people`s systems that he proclaims to be his, he has stolen alot of info from chongo, without giving credit to who his teacher was....
|
|
|
|
|
tagaustatoppen
Mar 12, 2006, 7:36 PM
Post #16 of 18
(7385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2005
Posts: 93
|
In reply to: esoteric1 Posted: 12 Mar 2006 12:13 Post subject: Re: Grigri mods -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ptpp has written articles with other people`s systems that he proclaims to be his, he has stolen a lot of info from chongo, without giving credit to who his teacher was....
What does that have to do with what is being discussed? I think that we all accept that is what ptpp has done but no one really cares because after you have read through the hours of pete bull shit to find the little jewels of aid climbing you are to tired to care.
|
|
|
|
|
ptpp
Nov 2, 2007, 9:35 PM
Post #17 of 18
(4790 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2007
Posts: 38
|
Hey Tyler,
Say hi to your dad for me, eh? I enjoyed climbing with him - at least the first time. The second time, however, was a shattering experience.
Dude, I have *never* advocated modifying a Grigri for aid climbing. The modifications you most commonly see are those made for free climbing so that the rope feeds through it more quickly. An unmodified Grigri works perfectly fine for solo aid climbing. That being said, the bloody thing needs a clip-in loop, and I like what Tom [apollodorus] has done with his.
To giza and others, I apologize for much of the choss I formerly cluttered my posts with, and I would happily edit it out given the opportunity. So far as I am aware, I have always credited Chongo as being my Wall Doctor, and have always given his book a plug whenever possible. I am working at being less egomaniacal these days, and am happy to report a complete recovery from my former bold text addiction.
Well, almost.
|
|
|
|
|
ammon
Nov 4, 2007, 1:27 AM
Post #18 of 18
(4703 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 220
|
Wow, I like the new ptpp... and we even agree on something. I use the Gri as is AND use a backup knot.
Edit: good seeing you in the Valley Pete
(This post was edited by ammon on Nov 4, 2007, 1:29 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
