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andyw


Jan 18, 2004, 6:04 PM
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Finger Strength
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How could i develop finger strength for out of reach dyno's and small crimpers, i use a pully system to build up my fore arms strength but i still have problems on tiny holds.


boulderqt


Jan 18, 2004, 6:26 PM
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Re: Finger Strength [In reply to]
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you could try using a stress ball ( i can't think of what it is called ) :oops:
and keep climbing the more you climb the better you'll get.


eriktheweightless


Jan 18, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Finger strength is very specific to what position the fingers, wrists, and arms are in. I mean, think of all those bones and muscles and tendons in there. The best way to improve strength for climbing is climbing like activities. Try using smaller and smaller holds progressively until you get where you want. I've also heard many opinions on the usefulness of 'grippers' as strength tools. They are more of a warm up tool to most people I've talked to.


jpearl


Jan 18, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Do traverses that incorporate crimps.

Before you can more effectivelly learn go up on crimps (and dynos) practice going across on them first. The strength to crimp comes not just in the fingers, but also from the wrists and forearms, and also the ability to lock you're arm off while holding onto a crimp. Crimping is technical, but also requires full arm strength so don't neglect climbing on big juggy holds as well to develop those muscles.

Also by traversing, you'll learn how to set your fingers and thumbs up on the hold for maximum grip. For example, if you're pointer and middle finger are on the hold, and then you wrap your thumb over the top of the first two fingers, then you bring more of your forearm muscles into play by using the thumb in such a position.


karmaklimber


Jan 18, 2004, 7:34 PM
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Figure out your weaknesses in terms of the kinds of holds you're having trouble with and then hang from them for as long as possible.

If you got weak crimp strength, find 2 fairly positive holds and then hang from them using an open grip for as long as possible.

Weak at pinching? Find 2 pinches and hang from them. Same with slopers.


andyw


Jan 18, 2004, 8:21 PM
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Thanks Dudes,
definatly will use all those tips, JPearl, where did you come up with that technique? amazing.


far_east_climber


Jan 18, 2004, 8:30 PM
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door frame if it's deep enough.. also those hand squeezing things... if you bolt it horizontally onto your wall you can place you thumb on the bottom piece and squeeze and crimp on the top... keep doing that and you will be a gorilla


jpearl


Jan 18, 2004, 8:35 PM
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I didn't actually create the technique, it's just beta from a more experienced climber friend of mine at the City Climbers Club in New York City, and practiced heavilly at our gym and on the boulders of Central Park.

Enjoy!


andyw


Jan 18, 2004, 8:38 PM
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any way its a good technique. i want to go out and practice now but i am in school :( then again there is many door frames :lol: :wink:


gregtrammell


Feb 9, 2004, 1:18 PM
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practice on the small grips on an incline that will allow you to hold on. Then work your way to completely vertical, then on to over hanging surfacces. That is the best way I know of. Also practice hanging on a door frame. It may start out at 3 or 4 seconds, but you will get better.


overlord


Feb 9, 2004, 1:23 PM
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1. hangboard

2. camousboard

3. core strength

4. climbing.


spitshine


Mar 15, 2006, 8:09 PM
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The blue putty is called Power Putty and it works quite well, especially, I find, in preventing injury.
For finger power I use a hangboard combined with campusing. I would be careful though of tendon injuries.
I suffer from lateral epicondylitus in both arms, and pain in my right bicep as well. Oddly, only my right ring finger has given me trouble in that area. I've gone from only using big pockets to flat and sloping edges, small crimps, and I'm up to two finger pockets. Still can't touch those monos though, too scary. I also tore my rotator cuff about a month ago, although with icing and rest it feels almost as good now. The only time it hurts is if I dead hang on a small hold, or attempt to one arm pullup on anything.

As with anything, don't overdo it, especially with the campusing.

Pronators with a 5-10 pound weight work wonders for injuries as well.


alexhobo


Mar 15, 2006, 8:37 PM
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There is no such thing as "finger strength", as your fingers do not have muscles in them. Forearm strength will help your problem tough.


curt


Mar 15, 2006, 9:06 PM
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In reply to:
There is no such thing as "finger strength", as your fingers do not have muscles in them. Forearm strength will help your problem tough.

While you're technically correct in regard to the muscles themselves, "finger strength" or the ability to use small climbing holds to advantage, is a commonly used climbing term. Furthermore, the tendons, pulleys, etc. in the fingers do, in fact, get stronger with exercise. And, The best way to develop this strength is to boulder.

Curt


camilleguignard


Mar 15, 2006, 10:12 PM
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From what I read in books, hanging for more than about 10/20 seconds won't improve finger strength but forearm if you can hang for more than 15 seconds take smaller holds or put a bit of weight yet be careful, stop before feelling pain, buy books on climbing training


rock_junkie


Mar 15, 2006, 10:48 PM
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Have you tried yoga?


tobym


Mar 16, 2006, 12:58 AM
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In reply to:
buy books on climbing training
then hold them in a crimped/open grip for as long as you can? :wink:


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