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good routes to practice aid in so cal?
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cortezmachine


Mar 20, 2006, 5:13 PM
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good routes to practice aid in so cal?
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any suggestions?


roseraie


Mar 20, 2006, 5:20 PM
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Re: good routes to practice aid in so cal? [In reply to]
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Somebody, please, post the picture of the two dudes on Short Wall...


rockguide


Mar 20, 2006, 5:33 PM
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Re: good routes to practice aid in so cal? [In reply to]
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http://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/...ts/aidsuperstars.jpg

Shortwall, Indian Cove. All the internet superstars begin here.

And funny as it looks ... it is still a world better than learning on an actual wall with teams fuming behind you.


cortezmachine


Mar 20, 2006, 6:05 PM
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yeah...........




any serious answer would be aprecciated


Partner holdplease2


Mar 20, 2006, 6:11 PM
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Re: good routes to practice aid in so cal? [In reply to]
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That crack is actually a good one. Placements aren't super simple, it traverses just enough to let you know how you can cluster on lead that way, and how things can get wierd cleaning. Plus, its short. Right V crack on short wall. (No nailing, of course)

Free climbers get right of way, of course, but its not that busy on that crack.

Whats funny is the stances, etc. The crack is fine.

That's where I've taken people, anyway. Plus, there is a bolted boulder somewhere in Josh that you could try first. Not sure where...

-Kate.


Partner tim


Mar 20, 2006, 7:08 PM
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Re: good routes to practice aid in so cal? [In reply to]
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Goof Proof Roof.

2 hour approach, p1 wonky head ladder (or crumbly nut placements, your choice), p2 exposed nailing under a roof, no-pro free climbing to the anchors. Big air rap from p2, or more crumbly mixed aid and free to a walkoff. Awesome views. No crowds. Goes clean at C4F (?).

Now, that's a lot more demanding than a practice run on Lost Highway, but if you're looking for a 'serious' answer, there you go.

On the other hand, you could listen to Kate, who's soloed a few walls on El Cap, and take it easy to begin with. (You should still do GPR eventually, though. It really does have great exposure and views that go on forever.)


Partner holdplease2


Mar 20, 2006, 7:19 PM
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Unfortunately only one and a half...then two days of rapelling hell, but it was still fun. 8^) ... fun not bein' dead, that is :shock:

FWIW I tried to free right V crack once, felt like an aid climb! Lossa hangin' and swearin', and excuse makin', as I recall.

-Kate.


benpullin


Mar 20, 2006, 7:38 PM
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Re: good routes to practice aid in so cal? [In reply to]
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The Pirate and Insomnia -- cracks at Suicide.

Any of the more 'splitter' cracks at Josh: Tax Man, O'Kelleys, Coarse and Buggy, etc.

There are some practice aid routes at Mt. Rubidoux in Riverside.


Partner soberpete


Mar 21, 2006, 5:34 PM
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Check out http://www.bigwall.com/aidguide.html. There's a SoCal aid guide. Don't know if it is up to date. Hoping to try out Millard Falls this week.

-Pete


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