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turfguy
Mar 23, 2006, 7:58 PM
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Here is the deal, I went climbing this past weekend(both days) and everything felt kosher, then monday I woke up and it hurt to put on my coat. Each day I get a little more range of motion with less pain, and it only hurts when I raise my arm above my head. I really would prefer not to go the doc and just rest it for a month and do rubber-band exercises and stretch. If anyone has insight as to what the injury might be or rehabilitation tips I would appreciate it. Thanks...
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trenchdigger
Mar 23, 2006, 8:09 PM
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It's practically impossible for anyone to diagnose such a shoulder injury via the internet, especially with such a vague description.
If you can't/won't go to a doc, common sense treatment applies. Rest and ice the injury. Avoid any activity that aggravates it. Consider light stretching and shoulder strengthening exercises when the pain subsides.
If it doesn't fix itself, consider visiting a doc.
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seanhabgood
Mar 23, 2006, 8:13 PM
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Be sure you don't pull to much of a load with the rubber band you will make it worse. I got this from a friend who was a trainer for two America's cup teams, and a professional baseball team. He had me stand 90 degrees from the rubber band attachment point with a rolled up tallow and do three reps of 15 very low impact and it will work the rotator cuff. This was what helped pitchers the most and can help prevent the need to get cut. Good luck Sean
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bluenose
Mar 23, 2006, 8:18 PM
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If it still hurts in a month, or even a couple of weeks, get it checked.
Otherwise, ice for the inflammation.
Wait until you don't feel any pain through your normal range of motion and then do the band exercises, and don't work through any pain or overdo it.
If you've never had shoulder trouble before you will likely be fine. If you have, get it checked as you could easily be developing tendonitis, I did and I am on month three and just getting back to normal, but no climbing yet. Lots of physiotherapy, ice and patience.
You should do all of the shoulder exercises even after recuperation though, they help to ward off cuff problems.
Jeff.
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summerprophet
Mar 23, 2006, 8:31 PM
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First of all, Welcome to the club and good luck with this, it can be nasty.
I have screwed over both shoulders at separate times from climbing. I have impingement syndrome in the right one, and separated muscles in the left.
I agree that it is near impossible to diagnose your problem on here, but a couple guidelines you can follow that can help you on your way.
First and foremost, TAKE IT EASY !!! That means NO climbing... thats right NONE !!! If you continue to use the arm above shoulder height, you are continuing to damage the area. The shoulder is a tight little bundle of bone, tendon, bursa, and muscles, and any one of these could continue to be damaged by continuing climbing.
Next, the old hot and cold tricks. Ice it regularly to keep the swelling down for the first day, after that apply heat to the area to stimulate blood flow and healing to the area. Salves such as Tiger Balm work as well.
After a week or two, you can start working the joint. Your goal here is High reps, low weight (or no weight) Again, do not overdo it. I would probably not do any exercise above shoulder height for the first four days.
If you need specific exercises, email me directly summerprophet@hotmail.com. (and by low weight I am talking 1 lb)
Also keep up your fluid intake, water will help the bursa as well as the tendons.
Ibuprofen helps to keep down the swelling as well. 800 mg three times a day.
Good luck, I struggled with my shoulders for a long time, and tried pretty much everything I could. After massage therapy, Sports Doctors, and shit load of medications, I was finally healed by someone practicing Healing Touch. I don't really subscribe to that inner aura stuff, but I wasn't about to complain when it worked.
As for future care, stretching for a few minutes before climbing will prevent this from happening. Sounds so simple, but I had to learn it too.
Good luck man.
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thorne
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Mar 23, 2006, 8:34 PM
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About ten years ago I was convinced I had a rotator cuff injury. After much procrastination, I went to the doctor. He sent me to a physical therapist.
It turned out that the muscles responsible for keeping my arm/shoulder properly aligned were unevenly developed. As a result, my arm would not always fit in my shoulder socket the way it should. This caused uneven pressure on the edge of the socket - and it hurt like hell.
The following are exercises I did (and still occassionally do) to remedy the problem. You might want to try them before seeking professional help.
Also, take it easy for a few weeks.
In reply to: Anyway, here's a quick rundown of the exercises I did. Do ten reps of each exercise w/ each arm. Some you can both arms at once. Do the full circuit three times. Use a two pound weight. a can of soup works just as well. My PT said she has pitchers from the Charlotte Knights(AAA) using the same weights. 1) Arms straight out forward - palms down. Do lifts from straight down to shoulder height. 2) Arms 45 degrees wide from straight out. - Thumbs down - palms facing out. Lift from hips to shoulder height 3) Arms straight out to sides - 90 degrees from straight out. Bend elbow to 90 degrees. Similar to your position starting a bench press. Lift from straight down to staight forward. 4)-7) One knee and same side arm on a weight benchor something of similar height. Other foot on floor. Torso horizontal. I used to use two chairs. 4) Arm straight down - pull up to chest. 5) Arm at side - elbow at ribs - forearm down to straight back/horizontal. 6) Arm straight down - w/ elbow locked, lift back/out 45 degrees out from hip. 7) Arm straight out to side - Bend elbow to 90 degrees. Lift from straight down to staight forward. (similar to #3) 8) Lay on side - elbow at your side - forearm forward - lift from horizontal to straight up. The last two you need some stretchy material (they some long strips of ballon material). Not sure what else would work. It has to give only minimal resistance. 9) Tie to doorknob - elbow at side - forearm out to your side - pull forward to straight foreward. Keep elbow against side. 10) Same as #9 except forearm goes across body to opposite side. Kind of hard to keep elbow at side. Focus on the motion - not the elbow. It's been a few years since I've done these, but I think I remembered most of them. I thought there were 12. I did them once a day - Don't do close to a workout. You don't get pumped, but the small muscles that are targetted definitely get taxed. Good Luck. |
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turfguy
Mar 23, 2006, 8:41 PM
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I know my description is vauge but that is all I can say about it. I would like to thank everyone who has posted so far, I think I wanted to vent a little because this kept me from going to Josh. The Tiger Balm sounds good and I will pick some up after work...
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forkliftdaddy
Mar 23, 2006, 11:01 PM
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This might be bursitis, an inflamed bursa sack. My girlfriend had that. Rest (then PT) was the answer.
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davidji
Mar 23, 2006, 11:39 PM
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In reply to: I was finally healed by someone practicing Healing Touch. I don't really subscribe to that inner aura stuff, but I wasn't about to complain when it worked.
The healer who helped me is at http://www.youangelyou.com
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arrow
Mar 24, 2006, 12:51 AM
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If you have a friendly doctor see if he'll write you a prescription to see a physical therapist or just pay a doc for this if need be. Going to a physical therapist and learning what exercises you need to do is DEFINITELY worth the money! Not doing this is a waste of time that could be spent climbing. Do the exercises religiously and take anti inflammatory meds like Aleve.
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aimeerose
Mar 26, 2006, 1:52 AM
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Please do ex #2 from above with your thumbs up, not down and don't go above shoulder level. To do it with your thumbs down will just make the problem worse if it's a rotator cuff problem.
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jeffrogers
Mar 26, 2006, 2:54 AM
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I am going through the same thing too. I injured my shoulder mid-summer last year and I thought it was better then re-injured it again. Everything else has already been said but make shure it is COMPLETELY healed before pushing it very hard. The second time is even harder to heal.
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climb_plastic
Mar 29, 2006, 1:12 AM
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I had the same type of thing he described and after trying to climb through it and doing the rotator cuff exercises it only managed to get a little bit better where it was just bearable. It didn't get better until I stopped climbing for 7 months due to this and finger injuries. While I wasn't climbing I continued doing the rotator cuff exercises and light shoulder presses when I could do them without irritating my shoulders. When I started climbing again I took it slow for both my fingers and shoulder injuries and now both my fingers and my shoulders are OK. It was hard to take a rest for that long but now I'm really getting the rewards by taking my time this time.
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nomadguide
Mar 31, 2006, 2:43 AM
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I had something similar. I manager a climbing gym in Texas and hurt it when we first opened. I "dealt" with the pain and tried all the exercises over the years. YES YEARS. Three years later it was unbearable and I went to the ortho. After 3 MRI's (with contrast - ouch) they decided I had an "old" torn rotator cuff injury and some sort of impingement. Well I figured what the hell, surgery it was. That was almost two years ago and I just started climbing on a regular basis about 3 months ago. Every time I tried in the past it just hurt like hell and got worse. I went through six months of PT and still work it out. It still hurts although not as bad as before. I have good days and bad. I was guiding when all this developed too so needless to say "climbing" was my life and the way I mad my living. It taught me to listen to my body and the biggest lesson was (and it is still hard to swallow at times) that you can't have all your eggs in one basket. Climbing was all I did and suddenly it was gone. It just about killed me. I took up cycling and lots of other little things to take things off my mind. I discovered things that I truly enjoyed and I still do them. I still love climbing more than anything but I am aware that the ability to climb can be snatched away from me at any moment. It makes each climb sweeter. I thought I climbed for all the right reasons in the past but now I climb for the shear joy of it. Listen to your body and don't be afraid to rest even if it is for months. If you end up in surgery it is a rough recovery but it can be done. Just remember things can ALWAYS BE WORSE.
Good Luck,
Jim
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ksolem
Mar 31, 2006, 4:42 AM
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It will be two years ago this October That I was climbing a hard route on the Dike Wall at Mammoth, Ca, when my right shoulder went CRUNCH!. My arm was limp, people on the ground heard it. Anyway I learned a lot about shoulders in the next few weeks. I have had a great recovery from surgery and am fully good to go. If you want to share experience with me, send a PM, I will answer.
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jdouble
Mar 31, 2006, 3:35 PM
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In reply to: It will be two years ago this October That I was climbing a hard route on the Dike Wall at Mammoth, Ca, when my right shoulder went CRUNCH!. My arm was limp, people on the ground heard it. Anyway I learned a lot about shoulders in the next few weeks. I have had a great recovery from surgery and am fully good to go. If you want to share experience with me, send a PM, I will answer.
Great to hear you are back in action Kris! Had a great trip to Josh last weekend with Larry, look forward to some climbing with you again! I think the last time we were out, you took me up the 'Razors Make Great Holds, Dont Ya Know?' route at Suicide. It was so good everyone left.
Jay
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