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Best Climbing in Virginia?
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catga86


Aug 20, 2002, 10:49 AM
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Best Climbing in Virginia?  (North_America: United_States: Utah: St__George: St__George_Area_Crags: Cougar_Cliffs: Main_Wall)
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  What is your pick?


bouldertoad


Aug 20, 2002, 6:03 PM
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Tough question.......I would have to say Old Rag is my personal favorite. Great routes, backcountry feel and granite!!!


kyhangdog


Aug 20, 2002, 6:13 PM
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I hit Hidden Valley a couple of weeks ago and I'd have to say it's probably my favorite sport destination on the east coast. The New has a lot more routes, but for quality Hidden Valley equals the New. Besides, the routes were awesome, as were the views. Oh yeah, my partners and I had three hundred outstanding routes to ourselves.


monkeyinatree


Aug 26, 2002, 6:16 AM
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hidden valley!!!the best sport climbing in va.i have never climbed trad in va,but would like to.is there trad in va?


jerrygarcia


Aug 29, 2002, 12:14 PM
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Little Stoney Man on Skyline Drive. Nice 100ft routes and awesome exposure. If you like a "back country" feel try Mt. Schloss or Old Rag

[ This Message was edited by: jerrygarcia on 2002-08-29 12:15 ]


jerrygarcia


Aug 30, 2002, 6:31 AM
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Hidden valley is here


crazyclimbinfool


Aug 31, 2002, 4:01 PM
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best bouldering: alum springs, barnone


melonface


Aug 31, 2002, 4:37 PM
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moorman's boulders is an awesome place to do a little bouldering near charlottesville.


monkeyinatree


Sep 13, 2002, 5:46 PM
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amen orngave


pattray


Sep 14, 2002, 4:51 PM
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I Have to say, Crack climbing at Old Rag.


braaaaaaaadley


Dec 14, 2002, 3:39 PM
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Well besides climibing at the Va beach Rock Gym... i'd have to go with hv! Went there in the snow the other day. It was cold brrrr!


dboss420finger


Jan 28, 2003, 7:04 AM
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bouldering-the knob for sure. If you haven't checked it out, do it now. The 4 mile hike in will scare most of you off.


bishop


Jan 28, 2003, 7:57 AM
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I'm going to the NRP gathering Mar. 8-15. Can and HV sounds like a place a would like to visit. Can anyone tell me if the two are close. The HV link above is broken


Partner tim


Jan 28, 2003, 8:13 AM
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Old Rag for sure. White Oak Canyon for some short ice routes in the winter, too. That whole area of Shenandoah Nat'l Park is choice.


eastsider


Jan 28, 2003, 3:52 PM
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Bishop-

Sorry to tell ya, but HV is not really close to NRP at all. Probably atleast 4-5hrs from NRP. Have fun at the NRP gathering...it looks to be fun.

Cheers

Adam


roninthorne


Jan 29, 2003, 1:15 PM
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Old Rag... the approach is too long for most folks, and thus no crowds, plus the views are absolutely incredible... and my partner's land is connected to the park boundaries!

(and, honestly... climbing high quality granite in the middle of Virginia is just too good to pass up!)

Once again, though... where is Hidden Valley?


bouldertoad


Jan 29, 2003, 3:39 PM
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From what I understand Hidden Valley is in the southwest corner of the state. I have yet to visit but from what I have head it is a fabulous sport climbing area. I think it is listed on this site somewhere........


eastsider


Jan 30, 2003, 2:32 PM
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HV can't/shouldn't be listed here. It was at one time, but the current land owner (and route developer), Koma, has requested that directions not be put up here or else where (electronic or print).

cheers

Adam


Partner one900johnnyk


Jan 30, 2003, 6:16 PM
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"bouldering the knob"??? what's this. a four mile hike sounds like cake, i don't care how difficult the approach is, i've had some rough backpacking on va's more troublesome trails... i'd be interested to know if anyone has any info. thanks


par


Apr 4, 2008, 4:07 AM
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Re: [catga86] Best Climbing in Virginia? [In reply to]
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check it out, this is to all virginia boulderers.
there is some amazing bouldering in the mout. rogers/ grayson highlands area. this place has numerous boulder fields, and i have had them all to myself. its been nice, but the time has come to see the potential of this place and share the wealth, and the problems and projects ive been working on.
ive put up many problems in the v-o to v-6 range and have numerous projects that will go really soon.
this area is pristine, and the park service has been very generous is allowing me to climb there, please dont screw it up, this could be some of virginias premiere bouldering and it would be a shame to see it closed.
the best areas ive found, are right before you pull up to the visitors center in the park, about 20 feet in the forrest on the right. also, park in the rhododendron gap parking lot, walk up the hill in front of you and youll see three different boulder fields on the mountain tops in front of you. its overwhelming. good luck, ill see you out there!


charley


Apr 4, 2008, 6:20 AM
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Re: [par] Best Climbing in Virginia? [In reply to]
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I'm sorry I'm not familiar with the area, does the park have a name? I think I drive near there on my way to nc.


cragmasterp


Apr 4, 2008, 7:26 AM
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Re: [charley] Best Climbing in Virginia? [In reply to]
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I gotta throw in a vote for my old stompin grounds, Rawley Springs, just outside Harrisonburg, VA. The Maze up on the hill is a real gem, and rarely visited.
Hidden Cracks and Hidden Hilltop (pocket city) also have some real gems and a few trad routes.

The Knob being referred to in above posts is McAfees Knob. Superb.

PAR is not lying about the boulder fields at Mount Rogers, which is in Grayson Highlands State Park. We have been bouldering there for years. The views there are hard to beat, and there is a lot of rock in that park, some quite tall.

Hidden Valley, near Abington VA, has been closed for years to the public. It's on private land. Don't go there. It just goes to show ya, if you bolt it profusely (including bolted cracks/trad, in HV's case), they will come in swarms and access may be in jepordy, unless there is a well thought out plan before the bolting begins. In Koma's defense, he does own the crag and therefor can do as he pleases, which includes not letting the general public climb there anymore.

Me and my crag crew learned a valuable lesson from this example, and this is why Bozoo is primarily trad routes, and a few mixed routes where the protection was spotty.


par


Apr 4, 2008, 8:51 PM
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Re: [charley] Best Climbing in Virginia? [In reply to]
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you prob. do drive near grayson highlands state park / mount rogers on your way to NC. if you get a chance to stop there, it would for sure be worth you time! make sure to check out some of the boulder fields outside of the park, and then the clusters at the visitors center!!


kazbahamf


Apr 4, 2008, 9:18 PM
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Re: [par] Best Climbing in Virginia? [In reply to]
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How is the approach?


justroberto


Apr 4, 2008, 11:43 PM
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Re: [cragmasterp] Best Climbing in Virginia? [In reply to]
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cragmasterp wrote:
Me and my crag crew learned a valuable lesson from this example, and this is why Bozoo is primarily trad routes, and a few mixed routes where the protection was spotty.
It's all fun and games until some scandanavian comes in and starts placing whackass manchors and bolts.

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