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majid_sabet
Mar 26, 2006, 7:57 AM
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I am not sure what this climber was doing; if you are an ice climber, explain what she was doing. Thanks http://mdn.mainichi-msn.co.jp/national/news/20060325p2a00m0na022000c.html ================================= Mountain climber dies in freak one-meter fall NAGANO -- A 50-year-old mountain climber died in a freak accident after she fell one meter on a frozen waterfall and strangled herself on tape attached to spikes driven into the ice face, police said. Fellow climbers on the 2,805-meter-high Mount Amida in Chino, Nagano Prefecture, alerted police at about 11:30 a.m. on Saturday. Officers arrived at the scene by helicopter to find Mikiko Kawaguchi, a company employee from Chiba Prefecture, dead. Police said that Kawaguchi was climbing the 15-meter-tall frozen waterfall with three partners when she apparently lost balance and fell. Kawaguchi had attached tape to her pitons, the steel spikes hammered into the ice face, in order to allow ropes to pass through them more smoothly, police said. (Mainichi)
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alexnees
Mar 26, 2006, 8:28 AM
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Horrible... but my guess is that the "tape" is sling material and the "ice pitons" are ice screws or something. Doesn't really matter, maybe she really was using old pound-in Snargs or something. Anyway, it sounds as though she had put a runner on one of her points of protection to keep the rope running straight, then she climbed above it, took the fall, and somehow got the runner wrapped around her neck. I've never heard of this before, but I don't see how she needed to be doing anything especially unusual for it to happen. Just bad, bad luck. Perhaps a crampon point caught, causing her to fall head first, and her head went through the sling?
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jackflash
Mar 26, 2006, 1:17 PM
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She could have been carrying the sling around her neck and shoulder. To avoid dropping the sling, perhaps she left it around her neck when clipping the screw, then took the fall before she could get it completely off.
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billl7
Mar 26, 2006, 4:38 PM
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In reply to: She could have been carrying the sling around her neck and shoulder. To avoid dropping the sling, perhaps she left it around her neck when clipping the screw, then took the fall before she could get it completely off. The above came to my mind as well. Or maybe she just had the sling around her neck in the first place. So, I realize having a sling around your neck is a no-no since, in a fall, it could catch on something/anything and do the same as for this unfortunate person. But what are folks opinion on having the sling around the neck on one side and under the armpit on the other (neck-shoulder configuration)? I've climbed that way. Am I setting myself up? Bill L.
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climbingaggie03
Mar 26, 2006, 4:44 PM
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I think that carrying slings over your head and under your arm is safe because if you were to fall with that, it would catch on your arm before it caught your neck. What's dangerous is taking it out from under your arm and leaving it just around your neck. Sad that this happened to the girl, however it did.
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overlord
Mar 27, 2006, 12:50 PM
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In reply to: I think that carrying slings over your head and under your arm is safe because if you were to fall with that, it would catch on your arm before it caught your neck. What's dangerous is taking it out from under your arm and leaving it just around your neck. Sad that this happened to the girl, however it did. i wouldnt call a 50-year old a girl :wink: now, thats a freak accident.
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