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up_rope
Mar 30, 2006, 9:21 AM
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I have been climbing for about 6 years now and I have always wanted to get on some big stone anywhere but the one that I can never get out of my head is el capitian.......the shear magnitude and beauty draws my attention.... What kind of training and techniques should I have down before getting on the big walls. Any help that anyone can give is great and if someone wants to make a trip into yosemite I am always down.....
Jeffrey
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ambler
Mar 30, 2006, 3:11 PM
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El Cap was my life goal once, but then I climbed it a couple of times. There I was at age 23 having accomplished my life goal, and looking around wondering -- What now? It was the strangest feeling.
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up_rope
Mar 30, 2006, 5:34 PM
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There is a few routes that I want to do on El cap I don't know which one would be the best for a BWT. The Nose, Salathe, Zodiac, Lurking fear, triple Direct, etc....
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tradclmbr
Mar 30, 2006, 5:36 PM
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With 6 years of climbing experience, just a little bit of C1 and C2 aid practice, working on hauling systems. pendulums, moderate hooking and you'll be set to go. Although single pitch practice helps, so do smaller walls (WFLT, SFWC).
For me the preparation and anticipation were part of the overall experience and made getting to the top that much more sweet. But the bottom line is its not as far off as you might think - a few months of prep (at least if you have a job) and you'd be more than ready to launch. But - WARNING - your dream of getting up el cap will soon be replace by dreams of getting up el cap by different routes and in different styles....begging the question does the obession ever end?
Ive only done Lurking Fear with plans for more in the spring. I think it was a great first EC easy aid route as the exposure diminishes greatly after the first day or two once you get in a corner system to TG ledge and the top.
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up_rope
Mar 30, 2006, 5:39 PM
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It is amazing how fast climbing will consume your entire life and then its an endless persuit of something higher harder or extra ordinary.. thanks to everyone who has replied so far
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ubotch
Mar 30, 2006, 6:18 PM
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Great goal. I plan to be there someday (as pmyche says). I have been trad climbing for about 5 years and now I am just starting to learn to aid climb. Just got the necessary gear for the basics and can't wait for my wife to get back into the country and give me a belay.
For me right now the biggest hurtle is getting all of the nececssary gear, it will just take some time. Like someone else said, if you have been climbing for 6 years you should be at least half-way there (this coming from someone who has no actual experience with a wall).
Well good luck and if you need someone equally as inexperienced to learn with give me a shout. I'm in Riverside so its not too far.
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ambler
Mar 30, 2006, 6:33 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: El Cap was my life goal once, but then I climbed it a couple of times. There I was at age 23 having accomplished my life goal, and looking around wondering -- What now? It was the strangest feeling. OT: I felt the same way about hiking the Appalachian Trail, the What now? was answered by climbing :) In reply to: Well, there's always the Great Trango Tower. :lol: In reply to: "What now?" Solo the thing. |
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guanoboy
Mar 30, 2006, 6:51 PM
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good luck i think its a great goal. My suggested approach would be
1) practice 1-5 pitch aid climbs in a day.
2) add hauling to climbing 1-5 pitch aid climbs.
3) get on the wall.
I think there is a difference between aiding 2p and aiding and hauling 2+p. The clusterfage increases quickly and its good to know how to deal with it. The only real difference between el cap and hauling up a 2p aid climb is the extra water you have to haul.
enjoy your time outside
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craftedpacket
Mar 30, 2006, 8:49 PM
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I wish I had the ability to take the time off required to hike the Appalachian Trail....
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up_rope
Mar 30, 2006, 10:02 PM
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I can see the point on how it seems that someone could be filling a void in there life with the never ending drive to sweep up the big stone and that may be true for me but I can say that it has been a goal of mine since I have been 13 so it is pretty deep rooted as far as some goals go.
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sspssp
Mar 31, 2006, 12:21 AM
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In reply to: I think these vertical pursuits can sometimes be an attempt to fill a void in one's life.
[Since this thread has been hijacked...]
Yea, even if it is trying to fill the void, I ask myself what would I rather be filling the void in my life with? Sitting on a couch, drinking beer and watching TV? Getting a GF/spouse to argue with all the time? 60 hour work weeks?
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summerprophet
Mar 31, 2006, 1:00 AM
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Hey there up rope:
As someone who has played a bit on the captain, here are a few recommendations I can give you for training for the big stone.
1. Get your systems down, this means lean to get damn fast at setting up your anchors, transferring gear changing leads at the belay.
Wasting five extra minutes at a belay to discuss how great the pitch was or dig out water that wasn't where it was supposed to be will eat away at the day. If you figure a 20 pitch free climb, 5 wasted minutes per belay makes an extra hour of climbing. This does transfer to aid pitches as well even though you are only doing four pitches a day.
2. Learn to climb chimneys and off widths. If you are climbing walls in the valley, you are bound to find yourself sunken deep within a granite fold. Learn to climb chimneys, learn how to relax on off width. The faster you can climb these the better, of course.
3. Start getting in the mentality of seconding as fast as you can. I know that climbing is meant to be enjoyable, but to maximize your time, start seconding stuff quickly while still keeping the gear organized. Leave the looking around at the wonderful valley to while you are on lead.
4. Train your cardio. Hauling is going to kick the crap out of you the first time, you have to haul that bag 200 feet regardless of what your mechanical advantage is. Train for your cardio, do stairs with a backpack.
5. Aid everything you can. get very comfortable in your aiders, get to the point where you instantly know how high you can get in your aiders. Can i frogstep off this piece at this angle? Can I get in my substeps so I can grab that ledge to set a piece. French free is the key to getting better at aid too, learn when you can toss in a few free moves to skip ten feet of aid.
6. Get extremely competent at everything technical. You should be able to belay in the dark, in the rain, blinded, with broken limbs. Know how to feel for a crack around the corner and set a cam blind knowing that it is good. Be good at keeping the rack organized when you are scared. Learn how not to get your aiders wrapped up. Know many hauling systems, Know how to stack nuts, the limits of 3CU's with only two cams in, know how to set hooks at the limits of your reach, get comfortable back cleaning. etc. etc etc.
This is what I have to recommend. I wouldn't start right on the captain, Do the west face of leaning tower and The Prow on Washington Column first, and then get on Lurking Fear (the hauling is TERRIBLE), Tangerine Trip, or Zodiac (You will be scared for your life above the tower) for your first time.
Best of luck, and if you don't have a partner in mind give me a jingle. Looks like my Aid partner is moving to Boston.
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up_rope
Mar 31, 2006, 2:50 AM
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I would like to have someone that has done the WFLT a few times to go up with me or even a route that is not that busy so I can learn in depth the fundamentals of good strong aid and big wall techinques any takers???
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tradclmbr
Mar 31, 2006, 4:36 AM
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The way your post is written it sounds like your looking for a guide and guides get paid. They are definately out there (do a search and you'll get the names of formal and informal guide services in the Valley). But if a guide is not what your looking for heres a suggestion (and please dont take it the wrong way).......
1. go get your individual systems dialed on shorter stuff - haul, jug, highstep, etc.
then two options
a. offer to clean, haul (and even buy the beer for the ascent) for any would be soloist who might not mind you being there for the extra help
or
b. find an equally noobish wall climber who has similarly worked out the basics lower to the ground and the two of you launch....slowly, but safely....figuring out dilemmas as they present themselves.
IMHO b. is the more rewarding path.
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up_rope
Mar 31, 2006, 4:44 AM
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No I am not looking for a guide I just know from experiance that something can be taught to someone quickly effiecently and safely if the know what the are doing and have the time I have never once said no to some one who has stated that they would like to go climbing...my love for this sport is deep and I want to share that with who ever I can.. but yes I do see where you are comming from and I have started working on the basics and I do think that plan b is better of the two.... as far as the slaving on the wall goes I am more than game for that one too I used to be in the marine infantry so a little hard work is something that I am used to..
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apollodorus
Mar 31, 2006, 7:18 AM
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Unless you like snow, El Capitan is the ultimate wall.
My advice is to go up. You need tenacity, more than climbing skill, to overcome the Big Stone.
Schedule a few more days, take extra water and food, and just go for it.
"You keep doing pitches until you run out of pitches, and you're at the top"
- paraphrasing Chongo
A long wall climb, like El Cap, is about like that. If you're on your first wall, bring some more water and food, and just go for it.
The Nose allows you to bail (easy!) from any pitch, but also has the ultimate beta.
Don't leave the storm gear at the base, just because it's 100F degrees in the Valley. When the rare off-season storm kicks up, you'll need it.
Oh, and remember that efficiency in hauling is key. You might want to try hauling up a dam or something first.
Funny, how a few delays here and there (hauling, change-overs) can add days to a wall climb.. . . . .. . .
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up_rope
Apr 1, 2006, 1:15 AM
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WFLT seems like the training climb that I will be doing before El cap so I figure work on aid this spring WFLT late spring and then El cap this fall. I would love to find a partner to work on these goals with me.
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tradclmbr
Apr 1, 2006, 1:59 AM
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sounds like a great plan. WFLT does make good training for el cap...its steep and exposed from the first bolt (actually even before that......4th class traverse is uber exposed). But IMHO WFLT is more than a training climb, its the real deal.....get up that this spring and your already a wall climber....and more than ready for Lurking Fear in the fall. Good luck and have fun.
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brutusofwyde
Apr 2, 2006, 6:26 AM
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Just a word of advice for WFLT:
Be prepared to spend a day or two waiting in line before you ever get on the rock.
Seen it happen there, and on numerous routes (especially the popular ones) on the Big Stone as well.
It can kinda take your expectations down a notch to have to wait in line to achieve your life's goal...
Brutus
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dirtineye
Apr 2, 2006, 5:29 PM
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IF your life's goal is to climb up a big rock, you need another life.
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up_rope
Apr 2, 2006, 5:56 PM
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I am confused by your post? Are you seriously ragging on someone who has goals in there life, and in any way shape or form did I say that this was my only goal in life; NO. At least I do have goals and they will keep me focused on my endstate in life, now what about you is all you have in your life is rockclimbing.com with over 4000 posts....ahhh I see you have no life and when you see someone that has a few goals in theirs you get jelous....what ever man...
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brutusofwyde
Apr 2, 2006, 6:02 PM
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In reply to: I am confused by your post? ....what ever man...
ahhh... don't listen to dirt. He's a wanker, like the rest of us. :)
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justsendingits
Apr 4, 2006, 8:46 AM
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Do LT, then do Liberty cap.
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