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New BD vs. Metolius: double ledges
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anjalidas


Mar 21, 2006, 7:05 PM
Post #26 of 30 (2593 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2004
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Re: New BD vs. Metolius: double ledges [In reply to]
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Lots of good beta here.

The more bomber, welded-style clip in points for the flys are nice. But, having spent too much time in the portaledge in bad weather I wouldn't recommend a simple fly(the metolius is this style too) unless you are seriously committed to fair weather climbing. Admittedly, in Yosemite it is often not too hard to avoid storms. Just know that if you're in bad weather in a fly that only partially covers the bottom of your ledge the chance of updrafts creating a blizzard or rain storm inside your completely batted-down ledge(the smallest gap between the fly and bed fabric creates fantastically focused opportunities for the elements when backed by a strong breeze) are pretty good.

I agree that the Yosemite Fly from Anker would offer the best of both worlds, rapid-deploy and the apply to seal out the elements. I haven't used one fully deployed to see if it lives up to this claim. Hopefully BD will incorporate these features into their flys.

I echo the comment about the Metolius spreader bar seeming over-rated. In the end it really seems like some new, non-stretchy bed fabric is what will make portaledges more flat and comfortable. Any fabric gurus out there?

cheers
erik


Partner euroford


Mar 22, 2006, 5:02 AM
Post #27 of 30 (2593 views)
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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Re: New BD vs. Metolius: double ledges [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I echo the comment about the Metolius spreader bar seeming over-rated. In the end it really seems like some new, non-stretchy bed fabric is what will make portaledges more flat and comfortable. Any fabric gurus out there?

I think I read in Climbing a review of the Wild Things Spectra Icesack. Up until seeing that I wasn't aware that such a thing existed as a spectra fabric. Sounds like a good possability for a bed material, uber strong, very light, zero stretch, quitelikely the ideal bed material. but $$$$$$$$$


ricardol


Mar 30, 2006, 5:22 PM
Post #28 of 30 (2593 views)
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Re: New BD vs. Metolius: double ledges [In reply to]
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you guys are bringing back bad memories of having to setup the FISH fly in the middle of the night last fall .. (no shoes on, all my crap on the portaledge, and i had to jimmy the fly into the system) ..

.. at least i managed to not drop the ledge ..

.. i couldn't imagine having to do that with a little tent ..


Partner euroford


Mar 30, 2006, 5:34 PM
Post #29 of 30 (2593 views)
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Re: New BD vs. Metolius: double ledges [In reply to]
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i shot some emails back and forth with BD, i'm seriously doubting their ability to get some ledges out the door in time for my July climb :x

they also told me that the 'deluxe' fly will be roughly comprable to the ACE yosemiti fly. so thats cool.

all i know is i'm going to be damn uber pissed about having to spend the same amount of money on the "second best" ledge and get a metolius just becouse they can't get their act together. "late spring" means like first week of june to me, not running into july.


watchme


Mar 30, 2006, 6:27 PM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
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Re: New BD vs. Metolius: double ledges [In reply to]
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A little off topic, but...

I use to own a double ledge. I sold it and plan on getting a single once I get psyched on climbing walls again. It just sucks being the guy pinned up against the wall on a double ledge. There is no room for the average joe.

Be sure that when you test your double ledge out, to get someone on there with you, and take the side next to the wall. Check it out for yourself.

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