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paleface
Mar 27, 2006, 10:37 PM
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I just got a great guide book at pebblepublishing.com. It's called Missouri Limestone Select. I am moving soon to the Kansas City area and can't wait to get started. Are there any other resources from those around the state? I like outdoors best but sometimes this crazy weather forces me in. Happy climbing!
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boondock_saint
Mar 27, 2006, 11:04 PM
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I climbed at one place in Missouri, the Henley wall/Forgotten wall which should be in your book. The place was pretty dirty and overgrown and it was a pain in the ass. We had to walk around and go below the cliffs then figure out what route we wanted to do and then walk back up top and set up a TR (no bolts are accessible). I really didn't trust any of the bolts for leading. I can't imagine many other Missouri crags are better ... they just don't get enough traffic.
If you know/find out different, please let me know, I'd love to hit up the local climbing areas here but so far nothing comes close to what Jackson Falls / Draper's had to offer.
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slacklinejoe
Mar 28, 2006, 12:04 AM
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Sadly much of the climbing in Missouri is tiny, hidden, hard to get to, sensitive/banned access, chossey, mossy and dirty. I usually head down to Arkansas (Sam's Throne, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and such) instead. Anything worth mentioning should be in the book you've got, but don't expect a huge selection at every place listed.
On the plus side, if your looking to avoid other climbers and don't mind dirty / rarely climbed stuff then you'll at least get some climb time in.
Most of it is top roping friendly, bring webbing or static rope to tie off to trees.
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appleby93
Mar 29, 2006, 10:48 PM
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Hey i'm a beginner as well. I also have that book as a resoruce. Check out Trapper's. It has a lot of nice climbing, it is a bit of a pain getting up and down the crag to set up a toprope. It is bolted as well. I haven't been but I plan going to Warsaw, it appears in the book to have some nice routes.
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jer
Apr 5, 2006, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: Sadly much of the climbing in Missouri is tiny, hidden, hard to get to, sensitive/banned access, chossey, mossy and dirty.
Wrong, wrong, wrong, sometimes, sometimes, wrong, wrong.
In reply to: I usually head down to Arkansas (Sam's Throne, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and such) instead. Anything worth mentioning should be in the book you've got, but don't expect a huge selection at every place listed.
Expect what the book says and more. Every area in that book has been expanded, and a number of other crags developed. Yes, of course Arkansas is better, it's ARKANSAS fer pete's sake. Our pale-faced friend is specifically asking about Misery.
In reply to: Most of it is top roping, bring webbing or static rope to tie off to trees.
Wrong, wrong, if you want.
Paleface-
This info sucks.
Missouri is as good as you let it be. The reason Trappers is hard to toprope at is that it is NOT A TOPROPING area. The top is steep, grassy and on private property; thus it is a leading area. Warsaw is beautiful clean rock, and much easier to toprope at.
Welcome to the Show ME State, where I don't believe it's choss until you show me.
Here's resources in KC:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/kc_climbers/
http://kcclimbingclub.com
(down right now)
There is a new guidebook due out soon that covers all the newest crags and climbing.
missouri loves company,
jer
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slacklinejoe
Apr 5, 2006, 6:36 PM
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Jer,
Would you mind sharing what crags in the you think are worth visiting? Maybe I'm spoiled by other areas and I hate finding out access banned after driving a good distance or finding it's mostly graffiti'ed junk.
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jer
Apr 5, 2006, 7:21 PM
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In reply to: Eh? I didn't know we still had that point system rating folks...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...hp?CountryStateID=57
In reply to: take your first link to Wilton, first thing it says is access is sketchy so they won't publish directions on RC - I took that as a queue that access was mostly off - so is access now fine for the area?
No mystery there. Access is posted right online. Why would you visit a place that clearly states it has sketchy access? You asked what I thought was worth visiting. Wilton most certainly is. No, access has not changed, or the status here at rc.com would have changed. Ask around for directions, drive right up to the owners house and ask to climb. ORRRR, climb at any of the other thirty non-access sensitive areas.
In reply to: Basically the general lack of directions to these places (aside from in the book) shys off most folks, self included.
The original poster has a book, so directions are not a problem. Unfounded, unresearched, ignorantly blanket statements like this are:
In reply to: Sadly much of the climbing in Missouri is tiny, hidden, hard to get to, sensitive/banned access, chossey, mossy and dirty.
In reply to: I think a seperate issue is lack of the Missouri crags being updated in the RC database as access issues change.
Nope...a quick overview shows them all being up to speed with recent access status, so wrong again. Earthquake- sketchy, weird locals; Wilton-sketchy, owner fears lawsuits, Andromeda- not too bad; Kaysinger- closed. What fool would post directions online to private land rock?
-jer
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dklco
Apr 5, 2006, 8:16 PM
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IF you looking for a close climb cliff drive is your best bet its a little dirty but ehh its real rock check it out under the routes database
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beny
Apr 6, 2006, 1:47 AM
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why is that the mention of missouri climbing generally brings people out of the woodwork to bash the place? don't you all live here? isn't this the closest rock around? don't you get tired of fighting the crowds for that 5.8 at the falls or hcr?
where does all this misinformation come from? what does "closed" really mean? have you been kicked out of a missouri crag? have i? have "they?" you might be amazed where you'd be allowed to climb if you would just approach a landowner with a ham and your best southern manners.
slacklinejoe, you seem confused. i'm quite interested to know how many missouri crags at which you have climbed at least 10 routes to draw your conclusion that missouri crags are "tiny, hidden, hard to get to, sensitive/banned access, chossey, mossy and dirty." the thing that makes me laugh hardest is when you say missouri crags are "hard to get to". i don't know of anywhere in the country that has consistently shorter approaches and climbing areas closer to paved roads than does missouri. there are numerous crags in this state that i can belay out the window of my car while listening to kenny g on the radio. the easy access is actually one of the best things about this state- if you only have a few hours to climb after work, you need not worry about an hour approach. even hcr and jackson falls have longer approaches.
slacklinejoe, where do you find "graffiti'ed junk?"
slacklinejoe, how is an area mostly toprope? i don't know of a mostly toprope area in the whole state (besides possibly wildcat). where are these places you're talking about? i'd love to visit.
boondock_saint, why were you untrusting of the bolts at henley? do you trust them at other crags? i agree with you that toproping is a pain, so you should stop doing that and just lead the routes- much easier.
why does missouri suck for climbing? it doesn't. this place is great. its been the starting ground for some pretty great climbers, like ken duncan, tiffany campbell, eric forney, jim karpowicz, ryan bradley, greg finnoff, etc. surely these folks got something out of this state that you have not. let me tell you what i've gotten out of it.
-this is a great training ground for the black canyon. if you can climb the rock here, you can most certainly do it there.
-missouri is a little potrero chico. the rock is so similar, just shorter and the food isn't as good.
-no crowds. i've never waited for a route in this state. the climbers are probably too busy on the internet.
-no polished rock. climb in rifle or boulder canyon and you get sick of the polished rock. we don't have that here. every hold is crisp. enjoy it.
-great landowners. i've met some really nice folks around this state that own land. they're good people, they just want to be respected.
-fall seasons, there's nowhere better. look for that new guidebook out soon; it will have some photos of what i'm talking about with the colors.
so i don't know, maybe you can enjoy this place, maybe you can't. but i can promise that you're missing out by just talking about it. this state has so much to offer, and so few people taking advantage of it. give it an honest try and i think you'll be surprised.
-ben
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slacklinejoe
Apr 6, 2006, 2:17 AM
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Ben,
Apparently I've been taken to all of the wrong spots - so I'll retract my statements.
I've followed my friends off several times looking for some spots around Springfield we had heard about via other acquaintances only for the locals to tell me to go home or that they had no idea there was climbing in the area. Apparently I've asked all of the wrong people or that the other parts of the state offer much more.
BTW: the hard to get to comment was finding the crag, not necessarily the approach.
Being closer to AR, I do have a natural tendency to avoid areas with sensitive access and go where it's fairly developed - and no, I've never had to wait for a climb.
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ozoneclimber
Apr 6, 2006, 3:07 AM
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I grew up in the St. Louis arear and first started climbing in that area, I now live less than an hour away from HCR, but... I just broke my arm on Sunday, so I have nothing better to do than scroll through the forums and the database on rc.com.
I would first like to address the fact that I think that jer and beny are being complete assholes about this whole thing. (and i sure as hell hope that no one was stupid enogh to allow jer to belay them out of his car window) Next I would like to say that there is some good climbing in MO, but you have to work for it. I have climbed at the Falls and HCR, both of which offer an amazing amount and quality of climbing, and depending on what you want they are probably more worth your time and effort. I have never had to wait for a climb at either one of those places.
Limestone has a real bad habit of being flakey and crumbly due to its chemical makeup, but that adds to the fun sometimes.
There is a reason why MO is called the Cave State.
Sometimes you can find a real gem of an area in MO, but they're few and far between. If you want to check out the areas in Limestone Select go for it, there are some great climbs in there, but don't be put off by any of these guys. And certainly don't let them belay you.
-Bobby
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briarpatch
Apr 6, 2006, 3:31 AM
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I thought they held the rope just fine.
I think the point they were trying to make was that the climbing in MO is not as bad as most would think. You will not find the same kinds of routes that you would in AR or SoIL, but that's the point. Its a different kind of rock = different tactics. Sometimes its good to get on something different. I know that I used to feel like there wasn't much reason to climb close to home. You can just tell yourself that you have to drive 3-7 hours to get on good routes. Then I climbed at a few local areas and changed my mind. There are cool routes here.
One thing that has always worked for me was to just go to as many areas as possible. Then decide for yourself.
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beny
Apr 6, 2006, 2:44 PM
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slacklinejoe, i see what you mean now about the finding the crags issue. the best place to go for that is mapquest.com. the majority of missouri crags are named after the nearest small town. if you can find the town with those directions, you can find the rock as well.
i have yet to find anything worthwhile (in my opinion) around springfield. keep looking, maybe you'll find the goldmine. but, until you do, spend the rainy or cold arkie weekends along the warm, waterfront missouri crags. and if you need a tour, i've done a few of the routes around here- we can meet up.
ozoneclimber, you really can't accuse jer of belaying out of a car window. i'm actually the one who does that. its just so much more confortable. don't stress though, i generally use a convertible. i should add that jer and his partners have been known to belay out of canoes, kayaks, pontoons, paddlesboats, etc. perhaps we should be put out the warning?
i do hope your arm heals up soon. it'll be nice to do some climbing before things get sticky round here. and i can't imagine how hard it is to load up that 400 lb woman with the mi at walmart into the back of your bus with one hand. the other day i had a lady that weighed almost 600 lbs. we had to leave the cot at the scene and just put her on the floor. america...
-ben
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ozoneclimber
Apr 6, 2006, 7:15 PM
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I have done plenty of climbing in MO, and some of it is great fun. Its only ok to belay out of your kayak if your skirt is properly in place. lol. Makes it more worth while.
But anyway I was just saying that if you're a beginner it may be more worth your time to check out some areas, such as elephant rock or cathedral canyon, doesn't have to be out of state, before you get put off by some of the choss piles that you will run into around the state.
-Bobby
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jer
Apr 6, 2006, 10:20 PM
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In reply to: I would first like to address the fact that I think that jer and beny are being complete assholes about this whole thing.
I would like to address the fact that we didn't call anyone names.
In reply to: (and i sure as hell hope that no one was stupid enogh to allow jer to belay them out of his car window)
Cmon! seatbelts make a good anchor! And a girth hitch on a steering wheel!? Talk about multi directional!
Beny, don't forget, I have belayed out of a raft, a cave, from an island, a haulbag, a bucket, nude, from a building window, from a burning building, and from my desk.
I would also like to address the fact that I think paleface is a troll, and he got us going good.
Slacklinejoe, beny and I have a special place in our hearts for Missouri, so you'll have to excuse us when someone states "facts" to a beginner that are untrue. There are many in this state who have chosen not to adapt, and have been stuck in the gyms indefinitely, or given up climbing locally altogether.
-jer
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ozoneclimber
Apr 7, 2006, 2:46 AM
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My bad. Troll or not I should not have done any name calling, sorry.
Anyway, do I know you Beny?
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appleby93
Apr 7, 2006, 2:21 PM
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Question:
How easy is it to set up a top rope at warsaw. I've never been there but i do know the top doesn't have any trees. Are there any other routes that can be top roped besides the two toutes in the washboard area and the two in the walrus ledge area. If so, What are they?do they have top accesible bolts? or are there horns to set up an anchor with webbing? WOuld appreciate the help. Thanks.
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beny
Apr 7, 2006, 3:25 PM
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i'll continue this insanity. whichever crazy cat told you warsaw lacks trees on top has never been there. trees litter the top of that crag. many of the traditional lines actually use trees for anchors to rap off. here's a list of routes with top accessible bolted anchors from memory (there are probably more i can't remember now):
phantom fugitive
giving the slip
dubble undercling
brooks
gary's
resurection
practice slab
tiger bill
ginger snatch
atmosfear
droopy corndog
i'm in trouble
quins
if i missed any, someone else chime in. depending on how daring you are or if you just tied a 10 ft loop of cord around a nearby tree, you could access probably double this number of routes. and like i said earlier, there are plenty 'o trees for tr efforts without bolts. so go nuts.
ozone, i would bet we know each other. sadly enough, i've spent more time in the arkansas hills than a meth addict looking for moonshine. perhaps i'll see you this weekend?
-ben
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therealbovine
Apr 7, 2006, 3:30 PM
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Fellas,
You know how it is, Mo climbing is too core for some...Take what you can get, gain knowledge and experience, rage! Heck, if we were all too choosy as to where we climb, we would never really know what our limits are. Just like climbing in the rain for fun; why the heck would you do that? Because when the shizzle goes down, you know you are good to go. Climbing in MO is good for the soul, and if it doesn;t kill ya, it might just save your can...
Appleby93,
Yes, you can top-rope everything at Warsaw. There are plenty or trees. Locating the routes from above might be difficult, but possible. Just have a buddy run to the base and pick a line, then set up your rig on some trees. There really are few anchors there for 'top rope' action. Best to rig your own... or lead...
Jer is only belayed, never belayer...Don't mes with the Jer. Ever heard of Chuck Norris? Jer is Chuck Norris!
Beny,
There is some slick choss in Mo, I call it 'Cliff Drive'. Stay far, far away from there. What doesn't kill you can only make you grow boobies...
And for the original posted questions, and some that followed, in my opinion - Warsaw and Trappers, in that order, are the two 'open access' and 'east to find' and 'climber friendly' areas close to KC. Warsaw is better if you want to set up top ropes, but routes start at hard 5.9 . Trappers has easier routes but top rop'n is not a good option. Chuck Norris can take you there if you need a rope-gun.
Best of Luck!
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freakystyley
Apr 7, 2006, 4:42 PM
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Sean, you are just a boring old man. Those trees above Warsaw were mere saplings when you last visited.
One thing you forgot about Chuck Norris is he definitely ain't BLONDE!!
Benny's boobies are quite nice once you get used to them and help him in the wide stuff.
steve
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ozoneclimber
Apr 8, 2006, 12:39 AM
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I was just wondering because your comment about a 400-600 lb woman was too wierd. I'm an EMT-B going to school to be a Medic and, up until Sunday, I was working for two different services but as you so innately pointed out it is difficult to load a person of such size and stature into your bus with one hand.
-Bobby
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jer
Apr 10, 2006, 1:56 PM
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In reply to: Jer is only belayed, never belayer...Don't mes with the Jer. Ever heard of Chuck Norris? Jer is Chuck Norris!
I spend plenty of time on the dull end. You're oddly just never around for it.
If I was Chuck Norris, I wouldn't need a belayer. Chuck Norris Solos everything in his snakeskin boots, and a backpack full of ammunition.
In reply to: I've never been there but i do know the top doesn't have any trees.
I am so stunned, I can't even think of a good response to this.
Oh wait, yes I can.
I've never been there, but the top of El Capitan is a barren wasteland of sand, bordered by palm trees and small wading pools. Many of the great SI bikini shots are taken there, contrary to popular belief that they are actually by an ocean. Maybe if you get lucky when you top out, there will be a shoot in progress. They usually reward summiters with a cold beer, and helicopter them back to the valley when the models need to go down for a shower. A good time for this is mid august. Be sure to pick a hot day.
In reply to: And I even asked Jer if he ever needed a nut tools since I didn't think he ever followed (LOL).
I need a nut tool for freeing stuck booty before the follower gets it, cleaning out cracks for my modified crack n ups, and jabbing chupacabras in the neck for breakfast.
Chuck Norris is my kid brother,
jer
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