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mankyanchor
Apr 4, 2006, 2:44 AM
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OK i am new to climbing and just moved to co. On my first trip to eldo today we had just come down from breezy to pack up our gear and a free soloist starts his way up. I was thinking ok this guy has complete confidence in him self, then about 3 min latter another guy stars to solo wind ridge. I guess it just kinda surprised me these route are only 5.4 and 5.6 but still. so how many of you free solo,and what grades.
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leapinlizard
Apr 4, 2006, 2:50 AM
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I will solo climbs that I have climbed many times up to about 5.7, sometimes 5.8. But these are climbs I have climbed many, many times. I will solo some easier climbs, if they have a low probability of serious injury, on sight. Then there are climbs like the Snake Dyke on Half Dome that after you climb it once, you realize it would be better to have soloed it heh heh..
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jimfix
Apr 4, 2006, 3:03 AM
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I free soloed the stairs at work today
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austinclmbr
Apr 4, 2006, 3:11 AM
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I have been climbing for about a year now and do some free soloing. The first time I heard/saw it was the Dean potter in Masters of stone 5 and that other guy on return to sender, I thought " what idiots! they have a death wish!!" Well, I still believe the blond guy is an idiot with an ego problem. But, After a few high ball boulder problems, and hearing Dean speach on how it forces one to climb well, I decided one day to solo my pre-warm-up route at reimers ( 5.6 about 25-30 feet tall) I took a rope with me the first time and had a belayer incase I wanted to clip in at any time, It felt like I was climbing better than I ever had before. Since then I have soloed up to 5.8 but only routes that I am extreemly confident on and know very well. There is a "new zone" I get into when I solo and the remainder of the day usually goes better than the days I don't solo. It has almost become like stretching for me.
hope this helps
-J
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sick_climba
Apr 4, 2006, 3:18 AM
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I used to solo... nothing over 5.7 when I was at a 5.10 red point level.
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kydd76
Apr 4, 2006, 4:00 AM
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welcome to Colorado.
You will see people solo on the wind ridge all day , third flatiron too.
soloing
:deadhorse:
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tonloc
Apr 4, 2006, 4:04 AM
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i solo some easy stuff, one hard thing but it was rehearsed many many times before...but i only do this to be cool and to try and get laid
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rock_junkie
Apr 4, 2006, 4:41 AM
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I totally solo 4th class.
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crackaddict
Apr 4, 2006, 5:13 AM
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I have been known to wander up some routes without a rope a few times. Nothing harder than 5.10.
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brent_e
Apr 4, 2006, 5:16 AM
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soloed soem WI before. maybe in the 3 range maximum.
ice was fun until the kitty litter shit at the top. that was a stressful 12 feet of climbing....never again (i'll solo solid ice still, i think, but not like that).
Brent
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yokese
Apr 4, 2006, 8:27 PM
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Why is this thread in the "Escalada en Espanol" forum?
:?:
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krusher4
Apr 4, 2006, 9:20 PM
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I would say loooong run-outs is pretty much soloing.
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curtis_g
Apr 4, 2006, 9:39 PM
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i would have to disagree totally.
knowing that you can clip or place pro when your leg starts to sewing maching...its just very different. different than knowing that there is no feasable option other than complete success.
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angry
Apr 4, 2006, 9:43 PM
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I onsight soloed in the 10 range a few times.
I've soloed in that range on things I've done before too.
I once did an 11b but the crux was pretty low.
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krusher4
Apr 4, 2006, 9:56 PM
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sorry.. long run-outs= no gear avaliable. Say 60 feet out from your last on a slab, if you fall you will die, that sort of thing
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curtis_g
Apr 4, 2006, 9:59 PM
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in that case, i would rather not have the rope to hold me back, or the trad gear for extra weight...i mean if you're gunna die either way...
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petsfed
Apr 4, 2006, 10:11 PM
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I love the morbid fascination some have with the topic, and how these threads always bring out the finger wavers (but they haven't appeared here, yet). What's funny is that generally, if you want to claim you're solid at the grade, what you're basically saying is "I can onsight solo at that level", which is a claim few will regularly make. Even so, unless you stick clip the first bolt or aid to your first piece, everyone solos at some level. Its just a question of acceptable risk.
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curtis_g
Apr 4, 2006, 10:16 PM
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In reply to: I love the morbid fascination some have with the topic, and how these threads always bring out the finger wavers (but they haven't appeared here, yet). What's funny is that generally, if you want to claim you're solid at the grade, what you're basically saying is "I can onsight solo at that level", which is a claim few will regularly make. Even so, unless you stick clip the first bolt or aid to your first piece, everyone solos at some level. Its just a question of acceptable risk.
haha, i contest and correct...
unless you stick clip the first bolt...everyone BOULDERS at some level. haha
oh but I too m suprised that the finger-wavers have stayed in the woodworks.
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caughtinside
Apr 4, 2006, 10:18 PM
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In reply to: What's funny is that generally, if you want to claim you're solid at the grade, what you're basically saying is "I can onsight solo at that level",
Disagree. Roped climbing something you know you're solid on and making the decision to solo it are two very different things.
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petsfed
Apr 4, 2006, 11:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What's funny is that generally, if you want to claim you're solid at the grade, what you're basically saying is "I can onsight solo at that level", Disagree. Roped climbing something you know you're solid on and making the decision to solo it are two very different things.
Why? The outcome is the same. Think about it. If I say I can climb (onsight of course) something of a certain grade, without falling or using any of my gear, is that not the same as soloing? The goal is in fact the same. The difference is only the stakes, and if you're truly solid at the grade, the stakes are the same anyway. And don't harp on me about holds breaking. If you're not prepared for that eventuality, you're clearly not as solid as you think. More succinctly, the kind of holds that would spell disaster for a solo are the kinds you want a helmet for, as they'll knock you and your belayer out. And as a rule, I don't solo on that kind of rock. I don't think many others would either. Maybe Earl Wiggins.
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caughtinside
Apr 4, 2006, 11:33 PM
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Well, I definitely see your point, but I disagree. Sure I 'can' solo something, but I don't solo anything remotely hard, because the risk just isn't worth it to me. I don't get the kick, the flow, the whatever out of soloing that some folks do.
I think soloing and onsighting are very different mindsets, it sounds like you don't. But I'll happily agree to disagree, and be a 5.4 climber. 8^)
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 5, 2006, 12:25 AM
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I can see pets theory but it is near impossible to equate the theory to the actul act. As long as you have the rope and the gear and you are on a climb that you feel solid on you know that if you fall or lose your nerve you will most likly be ok. When you launch into a serious (For you) solo you are actutly aware that there is no getting out of this without climbing out of it!! Ice is totaly different. Most of us who solo Ice wear a harness, carry rap rope,screws,pins or equivalnt rock gear if the rt is mixed, threads etc. and have no qualms about threadding off if it does not feel good. Personaly a run out X or even R rated rock climb is 100 times more dangerous than a solo. You have the extra weight of the rope and gear and you are usualy on a much less predictable route. A solo of a clean climb with positive holds vs a lead of a seldom climbed scrare fest!! I have never been totaly shakeing in my boots about to die on a solo but that has happened several times on lead :D
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yokese
Apr 5, 2006, 12:59 AM
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Again, why is this thread in the "Escalada en Espanol" forum??????
:?: :?: :?: :?:
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hugorocha
Apr 6, 2006, 12:07 AM
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aca en suesca fresoleamos a diario, ahi muchas rutas clasicas para hecharce de paseo.....pero tambien estan los pepos que estan vatriendose haciendo rutas con cruxes 5.9, 5.10 a mucha altura, buenos empotres de palma son la caracteristica....
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mtoensing2002
Apr 6, 2006, 1:09 AM
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I have done it before. In morrison, CO on the bouldering wall, there are some sick free routes. Only about 60 ft but its tight. Maybe 5.5-5.7 not too much. No death for me, I hate falling.
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