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crackboy
Apr 5, 2006, 8:04 PM
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Well? Planning on doing my first wall in the begining of May weather depending
No bag yet, but wouldn't mind borrowing one first to make sure wall climbing is something i will enjoy
Am located in Davis.
thanks
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epicsaga
Apr 5, 2006, 8:18 PM
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Anyone have a few hundred bucks they wouldnt mind lending out? Loaning climbing gear to someone you don't know where they live and work without a deposit is a bad idea.
In reply to: Well? Planning on doing my first wall in the begining of May weather depending No bag yet, but wouldn't mind borrowing one first to make sure wall climbing is something i will enjoy Am located in Davis. thanks |
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caughtinside
Apr 5, 2006, 8:26 PM
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In reply to: Anyone have a few hundred bucks they wouldnt mind lending out? Loaning climbing gear to someone you don't know where they live and work without a deposit is a bad idea. In reply to: Well? Planning on doing my first wall in the begining of May weather depending No bag yet, but wouldn't mind borrowing one first to make sure wall climbing is something i will enjoy Am located in Davis. thanks
Hey Mr. EpicRealCoolGuy,
There's such a thing as a climbing 'community.' WHich obviously you aren't a part of.
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tradclmbr
Apr 5, 2006, 8:36 PM
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Glad to see Dave advocating for climbing community-ism, but the reality is your unlikely to get many takers on your request.
An alternative to buying an expensive haulbag? Climb something uber-steep so that hauling wont mean pulling the bag up a slab pitch after pitch. Then you can use a duct-tape reinforced cheaper bag ($25 dry bag or army surplus might work). WFLT is the route of choice for this approach. Otherwise, go light and fast and make the second wear the bag!
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crackboy
Apr 5, 2006, 8:40 PM
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who said i wouldn't be willing to do offer a deposit, or replacement.
anyone have a link for that place that rents ledges they might rent haulbags but i don't remember
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brutusofwyde
Apr 5, 2006, 8:41 PM
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In reply to: There's such a thing as a climbing 'community.' WHich obviously you aren't a part of.
Well, caught, I do have a haul bag, in fact several, but even though I consider myself part of the climbing community, I wouldn't loan it out, at least not to someone who was not a very close friend, close enough that I wouldn't hold it against them if it got destroyed.
Because the fact is that a haul bag is not a piece of metal climbing gear, and even metal gear is subjected to abnormally heavy use on a wall. A haul bag can easily be destroyed on one wall, especially by someone new to wall climbing.
But good luck. Another option would be to look around for a used one. Barring that, contact Fish and see if he has any seconds laying about. Hope this helps.
Brutus
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iamthewallress
Apr 5, 2006, 10:29 PM
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Crackboy...Consider getting yourself and Atom Smasher or similar and doing a wall that is a one nighter on a natural ledge, like the WFLT, something that bivies on Dinner Ledge, Moonlight Butress, etc. If you don't dig walls, you'll still have a fine crag pack and you'll only have speant $89. If you do dig walls, you'll probably want a sub bag anyway.
Haulbags are spendy and have a limited lifespan on account of getting dragged across the rock so much. I would only lend mine to someone that I might say, "No, don't worry about the $50 I speant on our food. Consider us even for whatever thing it is that you've done for me b/c we're such good friends."
That said, all of my first many wall efforts were done with loaner bags. A friend of mine actually loaned me a very new bag, and lucky for him, I sucked so it didn't get hauled all that far. After that I borrowed another bag that was in such hideous shape I put a daisy to the haul point and backed up the key contents to the daisy. I borrowed this bag again, only I duct taped and plasti-dipped the be-jesus out of it. With an extra couple of pounds of plastidip on it, it was no stronger, and molted like a snake all over the rock...Not a good solution. At this point, I'd been dating the bags owner for long enough to insist that he retire it. By the time we bought another bag, we'd been dating long enough to co-own it. Dating the bag owner might not be a viable strategy for you though...
In any case, you'll probably have better luck w/ people that you know in real life.
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crackboy
Apr 5, 2006, 11:08 PM
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thats a good point about having a sub bag. i figured i would post this in case someone had a beater bag laying around as i don't know many(any) people who do walls near me, i don't even know that many people who climb period.
the plan is to do the south face on the column so i won't need anything huge.
could just get a small bag and then tack on a wall bucket or something extra.
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rickoldskool
Apr 6, 2006, 4:43 AM
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Crackboy, First wall? Plannin on having a partner or are you soloing? :shock:
Cause I have a bag but I'd need to go with you to make sure it's not scratched :P
Dude you are in Davis, there are many climbers in that and the Sac area. Hit the gyms with "wanted" notes. :idea: You shoulda bought a bag when you got your student loan disbursement
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iamthewallress
Apr 6, 2006, 3:12 PM
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You only need to haul 2 pitches to get your bag to Dinner Ledge...Two pitches with lots of 5.6 chunky face climbing to beat the hell out of a bag, but nonetheless, only 2. A duffel bag would probably survive the journey, and you can have the second baby sit it on its way up as it snags on every feature b/c that's what will happen no matter what bag you use. An Atom Smasher size mini-haul-bag is definately big enough for the endevor, especially if the jugger wears a small pack with some extras in it.
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crackboy
Apr 6, 2006, 6:19 PM
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yep first wall, there might be a bunch of us but I don't know exactly what gear each person has, and i am the kind of person who likes to make sure sure everything is in order. though i wouldn't mind trying to do it in a day, but with a large grroup that is probably not going to happen.
though i do have plans to solo something, assuming i don't hate it
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crito
Apr 6, 2006, 6:45 PM
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Dude you are going to love wall climbing. There is a place in the valley that rents wall stuff you can probably rent one there.
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iamthewallress
Apr 6, 2006, 8:22 PM
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In reply to: yep first wall, there might be a bunch of us
What does "a bunch of us" mean?
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crackboy
Apr 6, 2006, 8:32 PM
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could be anywhere from 2-4
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crackboy
Apr 6, 2006, 9:27 PM
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ha, yea i doubt we will be doing it in a day with 4 people. i wsa just saying i wouldn't mind trying to do it in a day. but i am a glutton for punishment.
i think we are just shooting for 2, but we might break up into two teams
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iamthewallress
Apr 6, 2006, 9:38 PM
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In reply to: ha, yea i doubt we will be doing it in a day with 4 people. i wsa just saying i wouldn't mind trying to do it in a day. but i am a glutton for punishment. i think we are just shooting for 2, but we might break up into two teams
Going with two novice teams will probably ensure that at least one of your teams is going to get stuck behind a slow party. (The chance of BOTH teams getting stuck behind a slow party is pretty high as well.)
I know that everyone talks about the South Face of the Column like it's easier than escalator to get up, but from what I've seen, most people have a very different experience up there than the spray would suggest.
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epicsaga
Apr 8, 2006, 2:33 AM
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caughtinside, loan him your gear tough guy. I've been burned loaning gear. as in, it doesnt come back in the same condition, if at all. and a wall bag? they get destroyed!
do it the old fashioned way, meet and climb with folks that own the stuff that you all need.
------------------------------
Hey Mr. EpicRealCoolGuy,
There's such a thing as a climbing 'community.' WHich obviously you aren't a part of.
_________________
Ethics Free Zone
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islandclimber
Apr 10, 2006, 3:49 PM
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Don't go with four people! I tried to do my first wall with four people, and man did it suck! The logistics are compunded like a hundred fold with four people. Keep it simple and small or you'll make it two pitches off the ground and want to baiL!!
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billcoe_
Apr 10, 2006, 7:38 PM
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In reply to: caughtinside, loan him your gear tough guy.
Yes, Caughtintheside - be part of the climbing community, and BTW, can I borrow your cams and rope my friend?
___________________________________________________________
I'll try to lay some advise out. Hope you don't think it's all pompous and stuff, but you asked and I'm trying to assist here.
My first bag I sewed with the help of my old friend Andrew. I had no time and little money. My part of the exercises consisted of buying all the stuff, and advising my buddy how big of a bag he needed to sew. It made it up a couple of walls, but unfortunately one of the carry straps broke while just starting the North Dome death gully off Washington Column. In severe dehydrated thick-tongue-headache weakened state I drug that sonuvabitch all the way down off of there pulling on the 1 remaining strap in hundred degree heat.
My next one worked better since I just borrowed the other bag Andrew had which he had crafted out of real sweet/slick yellow ballistics cloth instead of cordura like the previous one. Bob and I borrowed it for just a few days. We hauled, sweated, swore and pushed that M*fuking PIG up the chimneys of the regular route on half dome. When we returned it, after 1500 vertical feet of tight chimneys and low angle granite, it, uhnnnmmmmm .....how do you say, *cough *cough* well it had some wear on it. *Cough*
Fast forward 20 some odd years. I still have no time but have money. Friend Dave and real close climbing partner Bob (same Bob) are going to Lotus Flower Tower area with old friend Andrew and another fella I hadn't seen in years but knew well. The call comes "Do you have a bag we can borrow?" (I'd been invited but had the usual bullshit time constraints like a job, like a family, like 2 business I was running. "Shit yeah, says I, I have a brand new bag I just bought, you guys are welcome to it." It left a virgin, ohhhhh so pretty and clean. It comes back all beat with some ratty assed duct tape all over the outside of it looking like some jackasses hauled the 1/2 Dome chimneys.
Fast forward 2 or 3 more years. Dave calls up (the same Dave as the preceding paragraph) ..., uhhh do you have a bag I can borrow? Andrew and I are heading to ....? (touchstone, prodigal, both? somewhere in Zion anyway).
Thinking of Andrews bag and the effect of chimneys on it some 25 years before- along with the duct tape on the last loaner when my bag was brand new, I said: "Dave" (I didn't have any plans in the future and Dave and Andrew wanted to do a few walls after this) I said "the bag is yours. Take it, I'll borrow it from you if I need it. "
He was happy, I was happy, Andrew was happy. Mostly I was able to payback the Karmic debt to my friends....finally. If I need to borrow a bag, I can borrow Dave's, I know where he lives.
Getting to the usual laborious point: make some friends. Teach them how to sew you a bag.
Alternate advice: get a girlfriend too, she'll sew you a frostline down coat when see laughingly sees you take 4 weeks to sew the hood. She'll fix the hood too by ripping out all of your screwed up stitches and redoing your 4 weeks of work in about 30 min. Then get married and have 2 kids. 26 years later you'll still have that coat in your closet and that woman in your house.
With all your friends and family you will indeed be a blessed person. Fix your kitchen up and have a party for all these awesome, interesting and great people.
BTW, party at my house when we get the kitchen done this summer.
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caughtinside
Apr 10, 2006, 7:45 PM
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Bill, you can borrow my cams. Mitch can borrow my cams. Don't own a bag. Epicsaga can't borrow anything from me. Probably only 3 or 4 people who I'd loan a lead rope to.
Here's a story for some of you naysayers. I posted on ST about some gear, and I got 3 emails from people offering to loan it to me. I only had met one of them.
Put that in your pipe and smoke it.
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iamthewallress
Apr 10, 2006, 10:08 PM
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Bill...That kicked so much ass that it brought a tear to my eye.
Melssa...Whose brand-sparkling-new Metolius Half Dome and job offer arrived on the same day, making the former at once more affordable and less fun to own.
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sspssp
Apr 10, 2006, 10:34 PM
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In reply to: Don't go with four people! I tried to do my first wall with four people, and man did it suck! The logistics are compunded like a hundred fold with four people. Keep it simple and small or you'll make it two pitches off the ground and want to baiL!!
Well, thats a good reason to go with four people (and plenty of beer). You can have a party on diner ledge while you are waiting for other climbers (other parties and your own partners) struggle up and over the Kor roof, before you bail.
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caughtinside
Apr 10, 2006, 11:31 PM
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Melissa, congrats on the job! Can I borrow that haulbag? :)
Bill, I've still got a frostline down vest my aunt sewed for my grandpa over 30 years ago. Kicks ass, it does!
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iamthewallress
Apr 10, 2006, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: Melissa, congrats on the job! Can I borrow that haulbag? :)
Thanks, and sure...as long as we don't need it at the same time. You come w/ good references. :wink:
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caughtinside
Apr 11, 2006, 12:04 AM
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Thanks! I'm fortunate to have been able to climb with some cool folks. 8^)
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