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theirishman
Apr 15, 2006, 9:35 PM
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i need a much stiffer shoe for trad than what i have now. Any suggestions?
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mitguy
Apr 15, 2006, 9:48 PM
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try the lasportiva tradmasters. they are super stiff and comfy.
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shanz
Apr 15, 2006, 9:50 PM
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hrm im needing new shoes you the 6th person iv talked to who said that about the tradmasters may have to check em out
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treez
Apr 15, 2006, 9:52 PM
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Trango EVO GTX. Wink wink.
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gt29905
Apr 15, 2006, 10:23 PM
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Trango evo gtx = Magic boots
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thor4life144
Apr 15, 2006, 10:58 PM
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Throw in my vote for the tradmasters
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meesier42
Apr 15, 2006, 10:59 PM
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whats the difference in the Tradmaster and the Mythos other than the Midsole being stiffer. Really what I am wondering is a comparision in the downturn of the toe, I am looking for something that will let me point on nubins but not be so down turned that I can't wear them for a multipith day.
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thor4life144
Apr 15, 2006, 11:23 PM
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The tradmaster has more padding, rubber on both sides of the laces for better grip in cracks. It's also a lot more stiff. Neather one really has a turned down toe. If you are worried about the comfyness issue, take this into consiteration: When Caldwell hit Freerider and The Nose in a day, he was in tradmasters for the vast majority of the pitches.
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crackmd
Apr 15, 2006, 11:46 PM
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What type of trad routes are you doing? My approach to shoe choice on trad routes is this: easy trad = whatever I feel like wearing. It really doesn't matter much. It's nice to have a high top if you are stuffing your leg into offwidth cracks. hard trad = as soft and sensitive as possible. Loose slippers work great for hard crack sizes although you lose a bit of edging power. The more curled your toes are the harder and more painful it is to stuff them into cracks. It's a tradeoff, but I've found the most benefit from the ability to push my foot just a bit further into the crack than if I was wearing a pair of skis (boardlasted shoes). Just my take
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musicman1586
Apr 16, 2006, 1:35 AM
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Neither the Mythos or the Tradmasters are designed for a curled toe fit, although you can size them that way. The Tradmasters is big and stubby up front, so toeing into small pockets is hard to near impossible. They are probably the most comfortable shoe I've ever worn though, and for anything hand-size and beyond they would probably be amazing shoes (unfortunately never gotten to jam in them, just face climbing). The Mythos on the other hand are very narrow and slim, so it makes toeing into small cracks, pockets, etc. much easier. As already stated they have alot less midsole, so their more sensitive, but not as sensitive as say a pair of Moccs. They have alot less padding as well, so you'll feel those jams alot more. If your looking for a good shoe with curled toes, look towards the Miuras, but really you might want to consider what most the trad routes in your area are like, if there's alot of face climbing involved then curled toes are all good, however if you have alot of jammable cracks in your area you really might want to reconsider and get a flat-toed shoe, as jamming with curled toes is definitely not a fun experience.
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beanrock
Apr 16, 2006, 10:28 PM
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what is the best mad rock shoe for trad. i just ordered a pair of mad rock flash's but i have a toe injury and a more supportive shoe might be better. let me know whtast good
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styndall
Apr 16, 2006, 11:34 PM
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In reply to: what is the best mad rock shoe for trad. i just ordered a pair of mad rock flash's but i have a toe injury and a more supportive shoe might be better. let me know whtast good Phoenixes have done me well. Don't listen to hosh. Any shoes that you size for comfort will make great trad shoes. Hell, they'll make great bouldering shoes, too. I've sent V4 and 5 in my big, floppy Phoenixes, and that's about what I was climbing in my ridiculously tight katanas. The only difference is that my feet don't hurt. Anybody who tells you that shoes matter much is just trying to sell you something.
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dudemanbu
Apr 17, 2006, 1:38 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: what is the best mad rock shoe for trad. i just ordered a pair of mad rock flash's but i have a toe injury and a more supportive shoe might be better. let me know whtast good Phoenixes have done me well. Don't listen to hosh. Any shoes that you size for comfort will make great trad shoes. Hell, they'll make great bouldering shoes, too. I've sent V4 and 5 in my big, floppy Phoenixes, and that's about what I was climbing in my ridiculously tight katanas. The only difference is that my feet don't hurt. Anybody who tells you that shoes matter much is just trying to sell you something. Sorry, but I disagree. I climb at least three grades harder in my 3 sizes down, 150 dollar sportiva testarosas than i do in my super comfortable, 40 dollars on sale 5.10 zlippers.
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mr8615
Apr 17, 2006, 1:35 PM
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I climb almost everything in my muiras, I size them comfortably tight (flat to slightly curled toes) and can get good jams in cracks and they edge on anything! Great all around, high performance shoes, the only thing is that the laces suck! Gosh, who wants to have to replace the laces on their shoes? Anyway, muiras, if they fit your foot (mine is a bit wide) are awesome. Mark
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bobruef
Apr 17, 2006, 1:49 PM
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Another vote for the Bandits. I've been thoroughly impressed w/ mine. I sized them a hair on the small side for their purpose, but they remain incredible comfortable for all day climbing. I'm a fan of the evolv rubber too. Precise, sensitive, and comfortable. If you want something stiffer though, I'm not sure I'd reccomend these. If I wanted stiffer, I'd have definately got some Mythos.
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beanrock
Apr 18, 2006, 3:51 AM
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ok... can anyone recommend the most supportive pair of mad rock shoes? its obviously not just preference, some shoes are designed to be stiffer than others.
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up_for_a_good_time
Apr 18, 2006, 4:01 AM
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dude, give up with the mad rock shoes...mad rock blows. i second the muiras pick. i've owned two pair and might roll with another. they're money for bouldering, sport and trad. muiras will crush anything mad rock can toss their direction.
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miavzero
Apr 18, 2006, 4:05 AM
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In reply to: ok... can anyone recommend the most supportive pair of mad rock shoes? its obviously not just preference, some shoes are designed to be stiffer than others. madrock locos are the best damn offwidth and slab shoe I have ever worn. Just make sure that you get them super tight.
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styndall
Apr 18, 2006, 4:06 AM
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In reply to: ok... can anyone recommend the most supportive pair of mad rock shoes? its obviously not just preference, some shoes are designed to be stiffer than others. I mentioned the Phoenixes earlier, but I didn't specify that they're Mad Rock shoes. Like I said up there, they work just fine. They've gotten me up stuff from 5.6 to V5 without trouble.
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curt
Apr 18, 2006, 4:13 AM
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In reply to: ok... can anyone recommend the most supportive pair of mad rock shoes? its obviously not just preference, some shoes are designed to be stiffer than others. The Mad Rock Frenzy is by far Mad Rock's stiffest shoe. Still, I'll add my vote for the Phoenix as their best trad shoe. Curt
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curt
Apr 18, 2006, 4:16 AM
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In reply to: dude, give up with the mad rock shoes...mad rock blows. i second the muiras pick. i've owned two pair and might roll with another. they're money for bouldering, sport and trad. muiras will crush anything mad rock can toss their direction. Wow, you must be one of those really good climbers. :boring: Curt
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miavzero
Apr 18, 2006, 4:20 AM
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In reply to: dude, give up with the mad rock shoes...mad rock blows. i second the muiras pick. i've owned two pair and might roll with another. they're money for bouldering, sport and trad. muiras will crush anything mad rock can toss their direction. pay no attention to this noob. he sticks out his butt on 50 degree slabs. yes, muiras are fantastic shoes, but I doubt someone of his ability is capable of appreciating their utility. In fact, he probably wears wool socks with them and keeps an extra ham sandwich in the dead space of the toe box.
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miavzero
Apr 18, 2006, 4:23 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: dude, give up with the mad rock shoes...mad rock blows. i second the muiras pick. i've owned two pair and might roll with another. they're money for bouldering, sport and trad. muiras will crush anything mad rock can toss their direction. Wow, you must be one of those really good climbers. :boring: Curt looks like the madrock athletes are represent'n
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curt
Apr 18, 2006, 4:24 AM
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In reply to: i need a much stiffer shoe for trad than what i have now. Any suggestions? I'll also add a "thumbs-up" for the LaSportiva Tradmasters and throw the Scarpa Marathons into the fray--for consideration as a great trad shoe as well. Curt
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