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iceisnice
Apr 18, 2006, 3:24 PM
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they look fine. use em.........its bad form to fall anyway.
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pastprime
Apr 18, 2006, 3:44 PM
Post #27 of 65
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They have a Chouinard emblem on them, so they are pre 1989. Other than that, pretty much what everyone else said holds. If the holes will only take 5mm, I would either use spectra, making sure you know its quirks, or drill them for bigger cord, chamfering the edges, of course.
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boltdude
Apr 18, 2006, 4:02 PM
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In reply to: They have a Chouinard emblem on them, so they are pre 1989. Wrong, that's a BD emblem. And since there's a #11 (great size!), which was not produced in the mid-90s and reintroduced in the late '90s, you know these are late-'90s/early '00s hexes which (as stated above) have 5.5/6mm holes drilled in them. Those are late-90s spectra cords. Resling them to be on the safe side, although to be honest I wouldn't bother unless there was discoloration or a crispy section. Still, they could have been stored on concrete or near some other source of degrading fumes and you'd never know from inspecting.
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reg
Apr 18, 2006, 4:08 PM
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maybe i missed it but the holes should be beveled for cord or tape - otherwise they look good
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davken1102
Apr 19, 2006, 1:22 AM
Post #30 of 65
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Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it! Just to reiterate I should not use perlon and I should use either Spectra or Kevlar? I was told at a local climbing shop that Spectra and Kevlar are the same thing, I didn't think that was so?
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jackpinesavage
Apr 19, 2006, 1:51 AM
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Those look like pretty big hexes to have just 5 mm cord in them. I would guess they were wired. My old hexes that were made before wire was really accepted all have holes big enough for 8 mm and some even 11 mm cord. Just the small stoppers used 5 or 6 mm
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buckyllama
Apr 19, 2006, 2:58 AM
Post #32 of 65
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In reply to: Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it! Just to reiterate I should not use perlon and I should use either Spectra or Kevlar? I was told at a local climbing shop that Spectra and Kevlar are the same thing, I didn't think that was so? Right, No perlon. Read my other post above, the climbing shop is wrong. A quick google search will reveal as much as you want to know about the chemistry and mech properties of the various fibers. Kevlar was the first high strength fiber to be used in 5mm cord for climbing but it has long since been abandoned in favor of better materials. Some people still refer to all high-strength thin cords as "kevlar" but they are not kevlar any more than the tip of your pencil is actually lead.
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epicsaga
Apr 19, 2006, 3:10 AM
Post #33 of 65
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I like hexes for top rope anchors not for leading, heres why. Hexes can be finicky to place, they might go in just one way great, but that way only. You have to fit em into a bottleneck just so. Cause the sides are angled not rounded (like a stopper) usually the angled side hits the rock edge and doesnt fit snugly enough for me. On lead when youre struggling to get something in the extra seconds it takes could result in a fall. You have less time on a lead to perfectly sink it in the perfect position. And if the angle of pull is anything other then in the correct direction , and you don't have a long enough runner on it, it can pull out, there are no springs holding it in like a cam. Those considerations are more crucial then what cord its strung with. That said if you can't afford a full range of cam sizes then get some cheap hexes to round out your rack, particularly in the 3 inch and above sizes. And the biggies are way lighter then big cams. I never understood why BD doesnt make bigger stoppers. like up to size 20. They seem to fit and hold better into a variety of cracks then hexes do. Still, I vastly prefer hexes to tri cams (the passive metal slung deal with the point).
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mesomorf
Apr 19, 2006, 4:04 AM
Post #34 of 65
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In reply to: I like hexes for top rope anchors not for leading, heres why. Hexes can be finicky to place, they might go in just one way great, but that way only. You have to fit em into a bottleneck just so. Cause the sides are angled not rounded (like a stopper) usually the angled side hits the rock edge and doesnt fit snugly enough for me. Tell that to Earl Wiggins (FA of Supercrack in Indian Creek). boltdude's remarks were right on. End of story.
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davken1102
Apr 19, 2006, 4:59 AM
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I didn't think that guy had any idea what he was talking about. He was like 50 years old and I don't think he could climb up anything if his life depended on it but I'm not going to contradict someone unless I'm sure of it myself. Thanks for the knowledge! Im goin to resling them with tech cord just to be on the safe side. Also I used to be on Honda-Tech.com, a forum for auto's and I never got this much help this quickly. Thanks a lot everyone!
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treez
Apr 19, 2006, 5:10 AM
Post #36 of 65
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In reply to: I never understood why BD doesnt make bigger stoppers. like up to size 20. They seem to fit and hold better into a variety of cracks then hexes do. . Somebody does make nuts the size of a 1,2, and 3 camalot (they're even color coded that way), but they are my secret weapon, so I'm not tellin.
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billcoe_
Apr 19, 2006, 5:24 AM
Post #37 of 65
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In reply to: I didn't think that guy had any idea what he was talking about. He was like 50 years old and I don't think he could climb up anything if his life depended on it but I'm not going to contradict someone unless I'm sure of it myself. Thanks for the knowledge! Im goin to resling them with tech cord just to be on the safe side. Hey - I'm over 50 and don't know next to shit, but you're welcome:-) I love hexes, when you see that perfect hex plcement you know it almost immediatly, but I don't tend to carry them all the time anymore. I should post a pic of my old one next to a new one, but people would most likely be crapping pants the old ones are so beat....and still in use: not pretty and shiny like yours. Same diamond symbol shape, but with a C inside of it....a C for "Coe" or "Cretaceous" indicating an earlier era maybe. Regards and happy climbing on those; Bill
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davken1102
Apr 19, 2006, 5:35 AM
Post #38 of 65
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In reply to: Hey - I'm over 50 and don't know next to s---, but you're welcome:-) Bill No offence to the older climbers out there still doing it, but this guy had a gut on him the size of Canada.. :lol:
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catbird_seat
Apr 19, 2006, 5:33 PM
Post #39 of 65
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Your hexes are slung with Blue Water 5.5 mm Spectra core. I have a cordellette made out of exactly the same material. I would not bother reslinging them. It's simply not necessary. Spectra is very stable and abrasion resistant. The strength is over 2,000 lbs. The covers in the photos look bright and new. These hexes haven't been used much. Make sure each of them is tied with a good triple fisherman knot and then go out and use them! Good luck!
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epicsaga
Apr 19, 2006, 5:53 PM
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I don't need to tell that to anyone, obviously you've never led at the upper level of your ability on hexes and you don't know what youre talking about. Everything I wrote was 100% accurate, big mouth. Read it again. STFU. End of story. ----------------------------------------------- Tell that to Earl Wiggins (FA of Supercrack in Indian Creek). boltdude's remarks were right on. End of story.
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tradrenn
Apr 19, 2006, 11:51 PM
Post #41 of 65
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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In reply to: It is a hex for christ sake! They are like the most bomber things out there! Totally
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jsrj98
Apr 21, 2006, 12:24 AM
Post #42 of 65
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I can't help but point out that until the widespread use of cams in the early '80s, everyone used hexes "at the the upper end of their ability." The invention of Friends (along with advances in shoe technology) helped to extend the standard because they were quicker to place, not necessarily because they were inherently "safer" or more "fool proof." Unfortunately for the climber involved, the recent accident at Seneca highlights this. As epicsaga notes, at the upper end of your ability, quicker is often safer, which is why cams rule and there's no going back. However, for those new to Trad who can't afford to dish out a lot of cash for a rack full of cams, a selection of hexes, especially the larger ones, is a great place to start. They just shouldn't expect to be quickly leading anywhere near their Sport grade on hexes (and cams really); unless they don't mind flirting with a trip down the rock in litter.
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mesomorf
Apr 21, 2006, 1:32 AM
Post #43 of 65
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In reply to: I don't need to tell that to anyone, obviously you've never led at the upper level of your ability on hexes and you don't know what youre talking about. Everything I wrote was 100% accurate, big mouth. Read it again. STFU. End of story. ----------------------------------------------- Tell that to Earl Wiggins (FA of Supercrack in Indian Creek). boltdude's remarks were right on. End of story. Wow. You oughta chill a little, man. I guess I need to spell it out. Wiggins did the FA of Supercrack all on hexes, before Friends were invented. Back then, we didn't think hexes were fiddly at all - heck, they were easy to place compared to a piton! I started climbing 10 years before Friends became commonplace. At that time, climbers were making the transition from pins to nuts. So I've had some experience with placing hexes (and Peck crackers, MOACs, yellow Tri-cams, and tube chocks) while climbing at the limit of my ability. For example, prior to 1980 I did climbs like Patent Pending and Hollywood & Vine at Devil's Tower, Climb & Punishment at Vedauwoo, two wall routes on Squaretop in the Wind Rivers, and the left side of Moby Dick in the Valley. Nothing high-end, but then the end wasn't all that high. Whether or not hexes are fiddly, insecure or safe depends in part on your perceptions, and in part on your skill in placing them. Just like Friends. Er, cams. (When quoting, a lot of people find the "quote" function quite handy.) davken1102 - Whose gut are you talking about? Mine is only the size of a western Canadian province.
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sbaclimber
Apr 21, 2006, 1:54 AM
Post #44 of 65
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it! Just to reiterate I should not use perlon and I should use either Spectra or Kevlar? I was told at a local climbing shop that Spectra and Kevlar are the same thing, I didn't think that was so? Right, No perlon. Read my other post above, the climbing shop is wrong. A quick google search will reveal as much as you want to know about the chemistry and mech properties of the various fibers. Kevlar was the first high strength fiber to be used in 5mm cord for climbing but it has long since been abandoned in favor of better materials. Some people still refer to all high-strength thin cords as "kevlar" but they are not kevlar any more than the tip of your pencil is actually lead. Probably (hopefully) what the guy at the climbing shop meant to say, was that Spectra and Dyneema are the same thing. I am not sure what the difference in materials really is, but from everything I have heard so far, for all intents and purposes it is the *same* thing made by two different companies.
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angry
Apr 21, 2006, 2:43 AM
Post #45 of 65
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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In reply to: I like hexes for top rope anchors not for leading, heres why. Hexes can be finicky to place, they might go in just one way great, but that way only. You have to fit em into a bottleneck just so. Cause the sides are angled not rounded (like a stopper) usually the angled side hits the rock edge and doesnt fit snugly enough for me. On lead when youre struggling to get something in the extra seconds it takes could result in a fall. You have less time on a lead to perfectly sink it in the perfect position. And if the angle of pull is anything other then in the correct direction , and you don't have a long enough runner on it, it can pull out, there are no springs holding it in like a cam. Those considerations are more crucial then what cord its strung with. That said if you can't afford a full range of cam sizes then get some cheap hexes to round out your rack, particularly in the 3 inch and above sizes. And the biggies are way lighter then big cams. I never understood why BD doesnt make bigger stoppers. like up to size 20. They seem to fit and hold better into a variety of cracks then hexes do. Still, I vastly prefer hexes to tri cams (the passive metal slung deal with the point). This guy's been acting like a know it all around people who know more than him all week. Pay no attention.
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dirtineye
Apr 21, 2006, 3:10 AM
Post #46 of 65
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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In reply to: In reply to: I like hexes for top rope anchors not for leading, heres why. Hexes can be finicky to place, they might go in just one way great, but that way only. You have to fit em into a bottleneck just so. Cause the sides are angled not rounded (like a stopper) usually the angled side hits the rock edge and doesnt fit snugly enough for me. On lead when youre struggling to get something in the extra seconds it takes could result in a fall. You have less time on a lead to perfectly sink it in the perfect position. And if the angle of pull is anything other then in the correct direction , and you don't have a long enough runner on it, it can pull out, there are no springs holding it in like a cam. Those considerations are more crucial then what cord its strung with. That said if you can't afford a full range of cam sizes then get some cheap hexes to round out your rack, particularly in the 3 inch and above sizes. And the biggies are way lighter then big cams. I never understood why BD doesnt make bigger stoppers. like up to size 20. They seem to fit and hold better into a variety of cracks then hexes do. Still, I vastly prefer hexes to tri cams (the passive metal slung deal with the point). This guy's been acting like a know it all around people who know more than him all week. Pay no attention. I'll drink to that!
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curt
Apr 21, 2006, 3:43 AM
Post #47 of 65
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In reply to: In reply to: Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it! Just to reiterate I should not use perlon and I should use either Spectra or Kevlar? I was told at a local climbing shop that Spectra and Kevlar are the same thing, I didn't think that was so? Right, No perlon... Sorry, grasshhopper--but you're obviously a bit confused. The correct answer is to use perlon or spectra, but not kevlar. Curt
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epicsaga
Apr 21, 2006, 4:15 AM
Post #48 of 65
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This guy can't climb his way out of a paper bag on 5.0. Pay no attention. ------------------------------------------ This guy's been acting like a know it all around people who know more than him all week. Pay no attention.
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tradklime
Apr 21, 2006, 4:27 AM
Post #49 of 65
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In reply to: This guy can't climb his way out of a paper bag on 5.0. Pay no attention. ------------------------------------------ This guy's been acting like a know it all around people who know more than him all week. Pay no attention. You can give angry shit about a lot of stuff, and he'll deserve every bit of it. But dissin' his climbing ability is a real joke. It's kind of neat, you spouting off like you know what your talking about. It gives most of us something to laugh at. However, at some point it will just be annoying. I don't think your there yet, but you are awfully close.
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murf
Apr 21, 2006, 5:10 PM
Post #50 of 65
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In reply to: In reply to: I like hexes for top rope anchors not for leading, heres why. This guy's been acting like a know it all around people who know more than him all week. Pay no attention. Here's the PM he sent me....
In reply to: its too bad your dad couldnt convince your mom to have the abortion. now we have to live with her mistake. How about this saga-boy... We'll go out to Josh and lead anything up to *your* ability with hexes. Just as an FYI, I haven't placed a hex since my first trad lead.
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