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gunked


Apr 22, 2006, 10:27 AM
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Any info on Bugaboos
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Wasn't sure whether to post this in Trad or Alpine forum.

My buddy and I have decided to head out there the first couple of weeks in July. Just looking for info on the area. Have yet to buy a guide book.

Our current plan (completely open to change :wink: ) is to fly out to Calgary and rent a car(buy chicken-wire for the porcupines of course). Drive out to ?, hike into the Conrad Kain hut and climb like madmen for a week or more.

Any links online as to making reservations to the hut (I believe 1 week is the maximum stay at $22/night) would be helpful.

Is transportation possible(cost effective?) or is renting a car the only viable method?

I was told to stay at the Conrad Kain hut and pack in little camping and cooking gear as most of it's provided. The down side, I'm guessing, is we HAVE TO stay at the hut and if we don't catch the first come, first serve thing, we're screwed. Can we definitely stay there with proper reservations? Is it truly the first come, first serve dumb luck thing?

How's the hike in and where do we hike from?

etc......Any info would be helpful!

Thanks,
Jason :D


antiqued


Apr 24, 2006, 5:37 PM
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In reply to:
Our current plan (completely open to change :wink: ) is to fly out to Calgary and rent a car(buy chicken-wire for the porcupines of course). Drive out to ?, hike into the Conrad Kain hut and climb like madmen for a week or more.

Any links online as to making reservations to the hut (I believe 1 week is the maximum stay at $22/night) would be helpful.

Is transportation possible(cost effective?) or is renting a car the only viable method?

I was told to stay at the Conrad Kain hut and pack in little camping and cooking gear as most of it's provided. The down side, I'm guessing, is we HAVE TO stay at the hut and if we don't catch the first come, first serve thing, we're screwed. Can we definitely stay there with proper reservations? Is it truly the first come, first serve dumb luck thing?

How's the hike in and where do we hike from?

Car is pretty useful - I would expect that you can get bus service and hitch the last ~30 miles of logging road - don't know about bus schedules, etc - Radium hot Springs is the largest closest town.

there is quite a bit of chicken wire resident at the parking lot. Since early July is early season, maybe bringing and donating some would be reasonable. I don't know how well it survives the winter.

See Alpine Club of Canada for reservations. http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca Probably not needed in early July. Hut has pots, pans utensils, stoves. (See ACC website) Give some thought to gear for snow/glacier travel.


gunked


Apr 24, 2006, 7:43 PM
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Thanks!

Yeah, we were planning on bringing an axe and 1 pair of strap-ons each.

What does early season mean. Will we get better weather if we wait till? Is it gonna be significantly colder in early July? We can probably wait till later in the summer if necessary.

Thanks again,
Jason


scuclimber


Apr 24, 2006, 7:59 PM
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In reply to:
Yeah, we were planning on bringing an axe and 1 pair of strap-ons each.

You're probably going to want to clear it with the other people staying in the hut before you and your partner engage in those kind of shenanigans. :wink:

I haven't climbed in the Bugs, but I'm venturing early season doesn't necessarily mean the weather will be better later, but the snow/ice slogs to the base of routes will be longer or more strenuous and/or some routes might still be wet will meltwater. That's my guess, not that it's worth much since I haven't climbed there, yet.

Cheers,
Colin


highcamp


Apr 24, 2006, 9:37 PM
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There’s a good amount of literature on the ‘Bugs out there (R&I, Climbing, Alpinist) which should answer most of your questions. Personally, I’d recommend camping at Appleby. It cuts down on approach times, the community atmosphere there is phenomenal, and the outhouse has the best view you’ll ever come across.

Bring: lightweight crampons & axe, something to read in the tent because there will be rain days, and a BIG memory card for your digital camera.

And on your way out, hit the Bavarian restaurant in Radium - the one 1/4 mile east of the main drag thru town (turn at the only logical intersection and you won’t miss it).

Enjoy.


gunked


Apr 25, 2006, 9:34 AM
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deleted...double post!


gunked


Apr 25, 2006, 9:36 AM
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As far as the strap-ons go: if my girlfiend(she's not going with us) doesn't have a problem with it, I don't know why anybody else should!

In reply to:
There’s a good amount of literature on the ‘Bugs out there (R&I, Climbing, Alpinist) which should answer most of your questions. Personally, I’d recommend camping at Appleby. It cuts down on approach times....

I haven't purchased (for the exception of the occasion Alpinist mag) one of those rags in years. I already know how to buy gear and the latest project being ticked off doesn't interest me much.

I figure that at least a few people have jaunted out that way, so information shouldn't be that difficult to come by. The general stuff is easy to get on the web. It's the recommendations on what to bring and how to go about doing cetain things that interest me. What kind of weather to expect. Am I better off waiting till a certain time of year to get a better or different experience? Stuff like that!

Thanks agasin for the responses all,
Jason :D


tradclimbinfool


Apr 25, 2006, 10:04 AM
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Not sure where you're flying from, but look into flying into Kalispell, Montana instead of Calgary. Last year we found that both the flight and car rental were significantly cheaper stateside! Also, the drive is about the same distance either way.

You're best bet for info is to buy a guidebook. The one by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche is the best in my opinion--a bit pricey but very nice and informative.


gunked


Apr 25, 2006, 10:28 AM
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My buddy actually has 2 free flight to use up. So...thanks for answering the question I forgot to ask! Apparently we need to use them in the states. I've already ordered a guidebook online. It should arrive by Monday. The name Randall Green sticks in my head. Maybe that's the author?

Thanks,
Jason :D


antiqued


Apr 25, 2006, 10:48 AM
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Looks like you'll be up to speed shortly!

Spokane is another option for US port of arrival.

Most important piece of advice based on my limited experience:

1 - do the Kain route before the NE Ridge
or
2 - get on top early enough to follow someone down the Kain route
or
3 - really study the Kain route layout - check it out from Pigeon or Snowpatch first


waltereo


Apr 25, 2006, 5:34 PM
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[quote="antiqued"]Looks like you'll be up to speed shortly!

Spokane is another option for US port of arrival.

Most important piece of advice based on my limited experience:

1 - do the Kain route before the NE Ridge
or
2 - get on top early enough to follow someone down the Kain route
or
3 - really study the Kain route layout - check it out from Pigeon or Snowpatch firstAny reason for these recommendations ?


Partner macherry


Apr 25, 2006, 6:24 PM
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my partner and i have booked room at the kain hut from july 12th for 3 nights. he booked it and said it was filling up fast. I haven't been up there before, but i've been told the weather can be sketchy early season....... or at any time. if you want to do pidgeon spire in july be prepared for glacier travel.

..........and i don't want to see any shenanigans at the hut :D


Partner tattooed_climber


Apr 27, 2006, 11:21 AM
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..........and i don't want to see any shenanigans at the hut :D

What??you mean my 'kind' isn't welcomed????


krusher4


Apr 27, 2006, 12:04 PM
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In reply to:
my partner and i have booked room at the kain hut from july 12th for 3 nights. he booked it and said it was filling up fast. I haven't been up there before, but i've been told the weather can be sketchy early season....... or at any time. if you want to do pidgeon spire in july be prepared for glacier travel.

..........and i don't want to see any shenanigans at the hut :D

the hut gets to be a mess, it is much better to stay in the campground. Bad weather: bring a nice roomy tent, the last time I was there we set up a mini-base camp.


angelaa


Apr 27, 2006, 12:13 PM
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I gotta agree with Krusher!
the Applebee campground has comradely like you wouldn't believe . . Its amazing and camping there and meeting everyone else is totally worth carrying up all the extra gear. . .


thorne
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Apr 27, 2006, 1:13 PM
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Use the search function (in the upper right corner). You'll get a number of good threads about the Bugaboos.

Before you go, try doing a fair amount of hiking with a 60-80 pound pack. The approach is pretty burly.


brutusofwyde


Apr 30, 2006, 10:34 AM
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In reply to:
Looks like you'll be up to speed shortly!

Spokane is another option for US port of arrival.

Most important piece of advice based on my limited experience:

1 - do the Kain route before the NE Ridge
or
2 - get on top early enough to follow someone down the Kain route
or
3 - really study the Kain route layout - check it out from Pigeon or Snowpatch first

We flew to Spokane. Customs crossing the border in a car was by far less rigorous than at the Calgary Airport.

Lots of other very good climbs in the area besides the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, which I thought was so crowded as to at times make the climbing unpleasant. If I want to stand in line, I'll get on a bay area freeway.

I thought the routefinding downclimbing the Kain route was very straightforward.

We stayed at the Kain Hut, caching our climbing gear up high between climbs. Appleby has a SERIOUS rodent problem. We were also able to avoid a round trip down to the car to re-supply (one of your options on bad weather days) by using some of the free food from the "free food" cupboard in the Hut.

6-point Camp adjustable aluminum crampons and ultra-lightweight axe were adequate for the glacier travel.

Recommend wherever you stay, keep very close tabs on changes in barometric pressure. At times these can be accurate predictors of good and/or bad weather in this particular range.

Watch for avy conditions in Bug/Snowpatch gully. Just because it is summer doesn't mean snow can't slide.

Brutus


slavetogravity


Apr 30, 2006, 12:16 PM
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Car is pretty useful - I would expect that you can get bus service and hitch the last ~30 miles of logging road - don't know about bus schedules, etc - Radium hot Springs is the largest closest town.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Hitch hike into the Bugaboos!! You've got to be out of your mind!?
:shock:
No one is going to pick you up, because everyone going in there has their car/truck packed to the gills with gear and climbing partners. If you're renting a car, make sure you get one with good clearance because the drive in there is RUFF RUFF RUFF! I'm talking, muffler loosing, bone rattling, damage deposit loosing ruff.

You can stay in there for a maximum of 14 days. If your staying a long while, bring a tent. If you're going for a short while, stay at the hut. The only thing you need to stay at the hut is a sleeping sheet. No sleeping pad, no pots, you don't even need to bring a cup, or a spoon. It's all there. You are going to need ear plugs though. REMEMBER THE EAR PLUGS! You can thank me for that tip later.

Also, get the guide book by Elaho Publishing, all others are crap.

The hike in is short but stupid steep. A real ass buster of a hike. If it's a hot summers day when you arrive, don't hike in, you'll cook. In the afternoon the slope you hike in on is in the shade, that's the time to hike in.


antiqued


May 1, 2006, 9:48 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Most important piece of advice based on my limited experience:

3 - really study the Kain route layout - check it out from Pigeon or Snowpatch first

Lots of other very good climbs in the area besides the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, which I thought was so crowded as to at times make the climbing unpleasant. If I want to stand in line, I'll get on a bay area freeway.

I thought the routefinding downclimbing the Kain route was very straightforward.

Brutus

Not for me - I usually get lost when there are too many trails, not when there are none.

Certainly - many other good lines than the NE ridge, but as you indicated, chances are the OP might be hoping to do it. I was lucky enough (iffy looking weather at dawn) to do the NE ridge as the only party. There were so many herd trails on the Kain side that we did get lost; we shouldn't have, and an earlier view from the SnowPatch Bugaboo Col would have prevented such a thing from happening. But we walked up in the evening, didn't spend the last daylight scouting, took off at 5 whatever AM the next morning, and got misplaced the next afternoon.


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